18' Bosarge Wooden Skiff, built in 2000 (flat bottom)

by **Nickcan** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 12:53 pm

Greetings all,

I am working on my second wooden skiff and would love some input from those of you who have more experience in these matters.

This flat-bottom skiff was built locally (Coden, AL) by a reputable builder, Floyd Bosarge of Bosarge Boatworks, before he passed away - rest his soul.

It was used by a couple of 'pirate' gill-netting brothers until one of them was locked up by the Dept of Conservation. The other brother sold it to me ($400) to get him out of jail. It was not well taken care of, and I bought it just as they had been using it - dried out, full of mullet scales, with all the rigging for their nets attached, and the transom chainsawed to accomodate the 25hrs outboard they'd been using, etc...

I launched her once before beginning my newly found project, just cause... I used a 25 hrs motor, a camp chair, and a buddy. She planed out fine, we had a good trip, and she seemed really sturdy. There was minimal water intrusion and it didn't come in via any seams, rather THROUGH the plywood, cause it was so dry and cracked and the paint worn off I suppose???

It's all plywood construction (all 3/4") never glassed.

On the test drive, The port side floor near the stern seemed to flex more than I would like: Should glass strengthen this significantly or should I try more structural reinforcement before glassing? Will the flexing adversely affect the glass if allowed to continue after she's done? I would hate for it to work the bond loose...

The bottom (from the splash rail down) had been painted 3 times over the course of her life and the rest of the boat (including the interior) had been coated with Netdip, a product the commercial guys use to preserve their nets. I know little of this product but it was a bear to sand off and seems to have significantly penetrated the surface of the wood.

So far I have pressure washed her; scraped/sanded inside and out; flipped; cut out and replaced the top half of the transom and the 12x12 that spanned the stern; taped the chines; added a couple of 2x2's to the bottom (where I will attach my Center Console); and last night my wife and I coated the entire bottom with epoxy/high-density filler to seal the wood and fill any screw holes, gashes, nicks, and cracks. Up 'til now I've been using West System products that I had on hand from a previous project. A while back I ordered (from Bateau) enough cloth and Marine Epoxy to glass the entire bottom (from the splash rail down).

Question: Will there be an issue laying the Marine Epoxy over the West System product?

My goal is to cut down the foremost bulkhead and convert it into a 12-14" bench and build a Center Console just aft of the bench. I plan on powering it with an old 40 hrs Mercury for which I have controls, etc...

My initial thought was to tape the keel and chines, then do the 'wide open spaces' on the bottom and between the chines and splash rail. I feel like I need more hands for cloth that size. Is it advisable to cut it down into smaller, more manageable segments or do you sacrifice too much strength, at the same time creating overlaps, etc...???

Many Thanks to any suggestions!

Link to Pics: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=xkmgi3f.59jx0wib&x=0&y=-41zcev&localeid=en_US&cm_mmc=site_email-_-site_share-_-core-_-view_photos_button

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by **FLYonWALL9** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 2:13 pm

Nickcan wrote:Question: Will there be an issue laying the Marine Epoxy over the West System product?
Link to Pics: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=xkmgi3f.59jx0wib&x=0&y=-41zcev&localeid=en_US&cm_mmc=site_email-_-site_share-_-core-_-view_photos_button

Nick
I sent you a pretty long email reply that should answer most of the above except
for the Epoxy question. The answer is yes you can mix those two brands or I should
say use Marine Epoxy over West. Just be sure you don't have any blush, so skuff
it up a bit and switch over to the other.

AS for your mods the benches on that boat are part of its structural
support. You can cut them out but you will need to take other measures
to stiffen it back up. Example: add a few vertical supports (glassed to
the sheer) , horizontal support mid height and one at sheer top. See my
gallery for an example. I would use a hard wood like juniper, mahogany,
white oak, for those parts. Clear pine from HomeDeposit will work if you
coat it in resin before primer or paint.

Feel free to mail or message here.

by **nort** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:19 pm

Hey Fly, good to hear from you again. I was wondering how you were doing the other day since we haven't heard from you in a while.

by **FLYonWALL9** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:25 am

NORT,
My health is a roller coaster to say the least. The
positive side is I'm still kicking, though I may never
be able to build another boat :cry:

. I hope I'm able
to own one again some day. I've contacted StickyStuff
to see if he would like to build one for me, this may
be my only option. IF I'm able to get my ducks to line
up this could be a possible thing.

NICK,
Even though I'm for the most part unable to help or
show you how to do some of the things you need to
do on your local boat. I can damn sure direct you if
needed, and help you source out needed materials.
The best part is you found this web page and IMHO
some of the best folks I've come across in the many
years I've been visiting/ a member of. It will be a
valuable place for help when its needed.

CHEERS,
Scott(FLY) :wink:

by **Nickcan** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:59 pm

Fly,

Thanks for all your time and the info! It's good to have a resource that knows these boats and how to coach a noobie!

Since the last post, I have applied a couple of coats of epoxy. One just to let the wood drink up all it could and the second w/high-density filler to fill all the nicks and gashes. It's been sanded w/80 and has a nice uniform surface now.

I hadn't been thinking about glassing the bottom as much from a structural standpoint as I had a water-proofing one. The boat just seems so sturdy, after riding in a 14' Stauter for the last few years. A buddy came by last night and his thought process was completely different. He has much more boat building experience (ever heard of the Oyster Bay Boats or Caribeana?) Anyways, I'm wondering what weight cloth you would recommend. :doh:

???

I'm ordering more Marine Epoxy today and possibly more cloth. I really enjoyed working with the Marine Epoxy!

Many thanks

by **TomW** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:26 pm

Plain 12 oz biax would be the best. It would provide the most stiffness available and works easily. Then use Quik fair to fair it and get a smoot bottom epoxy or the fairing mix of microballoons.

Tom

by **FLYonWALL9** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:19 pm

Yes I know Oyster Bay Boats, even have one of the first little
cards they made up with pictures of the boat, sure wish I could
find one. The Caribiana is a great little boat would also love to
have one of those. I'm going to have to buy or have someone
build my next as I'm unable to. I've already talked to a few
people here and others about the idea. But yes, both the boats
you brought up are really nice. Was the guys name Steve by
chance, works at Saunders? If so I know him, if not I don't

Glassing the bottom and sides just make sure you don't have
any dips. Use the "guide coat" method to show you if you do
have any that you wouldn't notice any other way aside from
spraying it with water and watching it pool.

The 12oz is fine Tom knows what he's talking about for the
most part

...

Just be sure when you lay it to squeeze as much resin out
of your layup as possible. Once it tacks go back and fill it
with thickened epoxy. Your not looking for a layup that
fills the weave. Push it all out which will push the glass down
to the surface and not suspend it in the resin. TONS of topics
and pics here showing that type of process. Done both with
rollers and credit cards

or squeegies.

by **Nickcan** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:51 pm

Thanks guys!!!

by **Nickcan** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 11:22 am

My experienced buddy, who by the way, just finished a similar boat recommended that I think more along the structural lines. I just pulled the trigger and ordered 17 oz cloth and 12 oz tape, along with a 3 gal kit of Marine Epoxy. I'm itchin' to get her done! He's gonna help out if I supply the beer. I'm ready for my lesson, sir...

He says he wished he done another layer of 12oz on his after taking her out in a chop for the maiden voyage. Seems the issue with Bosarge is that they are assembled with nails and minimal lumber. Hopefully the 17oz will keep the flexing at bay. Now, I can start getting the console together and thinking about that forward bench.

by **Nickcan** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:22 am

Just a quick update to let anyone who is interested know how things are coming along...

I applied a layer of 17oz cloth to all the area below the splash rail. I was able to accoplish this with two 50" wide strips that run the length of the vessel, overlapping about 8" over the keel. Marine Epoxy is great to work with! I also had to repair a section of splash rail near the stern. She's been sanded now, primed and painted. Just yesterday my wife and I flipped her over and set her down on the trailer (with the assistance of a couple of c'malongs). Now for the fun part -instead of looking at that pretty bottom, all I can see is the raw wood of the interior and all of my ideas for how to finish her out.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=xkmgi3f.6h6p5z0n&x=1&y=-vjdmh7&localeid=en_US

Hey Fly,

"Was the guys name Steve by chance, works at Saunders?"

I do know Steve, we've raced against him for years in any regatta on Perdido Bay. He sails The Riptide and still works at Saunders. I didn't realize he'd done the first couple of Caribianas for Lynn until talking to him over some fried fish the other night... small world.