exterior transom tape

[1barracuda]

my boat was built conventional, semi stitch and glue.

The transom exterior and back side of the boat does not have biaxial tape around perimeter of transom or in the motor well.

the boat is 18 ft semi v bottom, i plan on putting a 90-150 hp motor on it.

The boat already has the fiberglass cloth on the outside, is it ok to add the tape over the cloth?

Should i use 6 inch 12 oz biaxial? alternating layers?

how many layers? i figure at least 2-3!

your help is needed, i am glad to order the materials from bateau.

thanks

Terry

[Daddy]

I would suggest two layers of 12 oz biax offset two inches over the joints, might have been easier to fair if it was under the glass but still should provide good support.
Daddy

[1barracuda]

thank you,

i appreciate the input.

Terry

[shine]

i figure at least 2-3!
:

Im guessing this is something for which there are not plans to consult?

Without knowing a lot more, I would not venture a guess.

"the boat is 18 ft semi v bottom, i plan on putting a 90-150 hp motor on it."

Be careful, this is not the type of boat you can be wrong and not risk potential catastrophic failure

[Daddy]

Better listen to Joel. More experience, better advice.
Daddy

[tobolamr]

Do you have pictures of the boat in and out of the water? It may give us a better idea of what it is...

[1barracuda]

Well here are some pics,
I think it's a glen l design but i didn't build the boat. but i know the transom isn't strong enough or built right.

It works with the 50 hp i have onit but think it needs to be stiffer.

i just don't know how many layer and what size tape to you to make it right.

you can look at the pics, the boat looks twisted in the pics
, but i think it's the camera angle.

i also need to add take to the inside of the transome and add extra support.

Also the plywood on the deck is not taped to the inside of the motor wells or back or to the transom. their is a smal 1/8 in gap you can see thru.

the paint is peeling on the inside as they did not prep the surface inside skins(ugly light blue) before painting.

check it out and throw out some ideas! their is no dry rot to be found, have some fiber glass tabs inside the hull on the stringers but only single layer of standard tape and no fillets.



http://h7xecw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p ... deview.jpg

http://h7xecw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p ... eb/top.jpg

http://h7xecw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p ... corner.jpg

[shine]

Well here are some pics,
I think it's a glen l design but i didn't build the boat. but i know the transom isn't strong enough or built right.

thanks, thats good to know Those designs are more classic wooden boat designs, wood frames, screwed and glued, they only use fiberglass for abrasion resistance. Our designs use fiberglass/epoxy to make structural "composite" joints and panels, its very different method. It would be great if you could find out how the transom was originally designed and re-build it to those specs. I only say this because its normally a good idea to not mix building methods and there are always unintended consequences. If this is not available, then we can tell you how to rebuild the transom closer to our method.

Is the rest of the boat is good shape? If there is any stringer/deck/sole problems this may be time to weight out the cost/time or repair vs building a new boat.

[1barracuda]

thank you Joel,

I thought it would be fine to mix the designs, i think i need picture of the transom from inside the boat.

the boat doesn;t have any problems other than the gaps in the transome and some cracks on the top deck.

I will contact you if i have any more info in the future.

thanks

Terry from Oregon