Seacraft 23 - shine

[shine]

reinforcing stringers (building thickness to 3/16" minimum everywhere). what you see on the stringers in these shots is 3 layers of 1810, all wet on wet. Will do other side this afternoon. I am going to add a couple layers of tabbing also (stringers to hull).





We still have two more layers of 1810 to go on transom.

[Chief Brody]

Joel, don't you always recommend tabbing first then glassing over them? Maybe it doesn't matter because the original boxes are already attached?

[shine]

Joel, don't you always recommend tabbing first then glassing over them? Maybe it doesn't matter because the original boxes are already attached?

Yes that right, normally. In this case I will be adding the required thickness to the tops of the stringers (they were cut off and added on to, but with no enough glass). I will then re-tab the inside of the stringers. The outside of stringers is extremely thick and show no signs of stress.

[shine]

removed old thru hull transducer. Whoever installed it did a great job, it was a beast to remove. Used the air chisel.

[shine]

rest of the stringer tops have been reinforced, capped with 3/16" of extra glass. Have ordered two 55 gallon belly tanks, these will fit low enough that I will be able to run some extra chases over the tanks and down the center. Tanks are going to be epoxy coated, bolted to stringers, foamed in, then glassed over.

Have decided against a livewell/leaning post combo in favor of just the leaning post, not enough cockpit room. Will probably build an extra 30-40 gallon well under the sole, to go along with 30 gallon in transom. Will probably rarely use the extra big well in deck, but its easy to build and will be nice to have as extra capacity.

Added tabbing of two layer 1708 added all around the transom.



Center stringer/drain put in. This is light 4" drain field PVC, covered with 3 layers 1708.

fillet putty:


glassed in:


Began working on molds for hatches and hatch lips/frames. Below is the rough cutout of the mold for a 20" square hatch. The hatch flange will fit flush into the top of the deck/sole, glued into a 3/16" recess that will be cut into the deck surface. There is enough room for the hatch to fit into the lip along with a 1/4" gasket. Should be pretty close to waterproof. Mold is CNC cut out of MDF, still have to round off the corners and add some fillets on the inside turns. Will cover with high-build primer, sand, then make parts. Will make a couple others for the rest of the boat. Large 20" square will be for bilge, in deck live well, and front fish box. A rectangle (maybe 13"x25") for front seats, console, and rear transom bulkhead. Also a triangle hatch for the anchor.

2 layers MDF glued up




rough cut of hatch lip mold

[Cracker Larry]

I'm keeping a close eye on these hatch molds. Nice looking work Joel

[Chief Brody]

Tanks are going to be epoxy coated, bolted to stringers, foamed in, then glassed over

Bolted, foamed and glassed...it will be indestructable......

Can't wait to see the finished molds .... nice work guys

[STUARTSNOOK]

looks great... I might of missed it. but what type of ply wood did you use in the transom?

[shine]

looks great... I might of missed it. but what type of ply wood did you use in the transom?

3 layers of 3/4" Marine fir, here is the link...


http://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?id=3

[ericfebs]

Going back to your pic of the thru hull removed, what is the green 'core' material used in the original sandwich??