WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

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WouldWork
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WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by WouldWork » Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:03 pm

Greetings friends,

The plans for my V12 turned up today, I'm excited!

I'll spend the rest of this week and maybe next getting everything together and get started as soon as possible.

This is my second boat and I'm hoping to get it together in reasonable time.

I look forward to sharing many pics and anecdotes with you guys and I'm sure I'll be bothering you all for lots of tips and tricks.

Cheers guys.

Cam.


Completed: CC14 Canoe and V12 sail boat.

WouldWork
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by WouldWork » Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:53 pm

Hi all,

I am still waiting for ply and resin, but I got very impatient and started on some other bits so I could say I've started!

These aren't yet particularly interesting pics, but they are a start.

Daggerboard sides and spacers

Image

I also started fabrication of the tiller. It's a piece of 6mm ply sandwiched between 19mm hardwood. The hard wood has a lovely grain, should look really nice when bright. ]

Image

Also, if anyone knows, I can't seem to find the dimensions for the tiller slot on the plans. The building notes say that its dimensions are critical, if you want the tiller slot to rest against the rudder, but I don't see any such dimensions. Is this simply something that may well be critical, but is also determined by others aspects of the rudder/tiller build that require ones own calculations once they can be 'put together' so to speak?

Cheers guys, I promise to have better pics on the next update, maybe even something that looks like a boat.

Cam.
Completed: CC14 Canoe and V12 sail boat.

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ks8
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by ks8 » Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:46 pm

Welcome to the group! :)

WouldWork
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by WouldWork » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:29 am

Thanks Ks8. Here's what I've come up with so far.

Image

and with the slot cut out

Image

Now that leaves the tiller with about 12mm of meat where the slot has been removed, it is a hardwood but I'm thinking it will need some reinforcing perhaps. Maybe something similar to your tiller (ks8), or even a couple of stainless steel plates on each side. I thought of fibreglassing it, but I don't think that will look as nice.
Completed: CC14 Canoe and V12 sail boat.

Justin Pipkorn
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by Justin Pipkorn » Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:08 am

I don't think you will have to worry about reinforcing the tiller on your boat. I don't think you will have to fiberglass the tiller, just vanish is fine. I would epoxy coat the tiller before varnishing. Besure to let the epoxy cure for several weeks before varnishing.

Here's a picture of a very lightweight tiller I made for my OT16. Rudders on boats this small don't exert much force like a larger boat. My tiller just locks on the rudderhead without a bolt. The tiller has a small HDPE roller in the back which fits in a slot on the back of the rudderhead. The radius on the front of the rudderhead holds the tiller in place. I like to be able to easily lift off the tiller when I remove the rudder. In order to keep weight forward when sailing, the tiller is very long.

Image

The rudder also shown in the picture is also worth looking at. The shock cord holds the rudder down but if the rudder grounds out, the rudder blade lifts up and stays up. The trick is to get the rudder pivot and shock cord location to work out. It works. This way, if I sail into shallow water, I can focus on lifting the daggerboard and let the rudder take care of itself.

Image

The rudder blade and daggerboard are coated with graphite filled epoxy. The bottom is now also graphite/epoxy coated.
Justin Pipkorn
Vagabond+ Just Right
http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/justright/index.htm
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1281
Otter/Lissa
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1197

Justin Pipkorn
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by Justin Pipkorn » Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:10 am

I don't think you will have to worry about reinforcing the tiller on your boat. I don't think you will have to fiberglass the tiller, just vanish is fine. I would epoxy coat the tiller before varnishing. Besure to let the epoxy cure for several weeks before varnishing.

Here's a picture of a very lightweight tiller I made for my OT16. Rudders on boats this small don't exert much force like a larger boat. My tiller just locks on the rudderhead without a bolt. The tiller has a small HDPE roller in the back which fits in a slot on the back of the rudderhead. The radius on the front of the rudderhead holds the tiller in place. I like to be able to easily lift off the tiller when I remove the rudder. In order to keep weight forward when sailing, the tiller is very long.

Image

The rudder also shown in the picture is also worth looking at. The shock cord holds the rudder down but if the rudder grounds out, the rudder blade lifts up and stays up. The trick is to get the rudder pivot and shock cord location to work out. It works. This way, if I sail into shallow water, I can focus on lifting the daggerboard and let the rudder take care of itself.

Image

The rudder blade and daggerboard are coated with graphite filled epoxy. The bottom is now also graphite/epoxy coated.
Justin Pipkorn
Vagabond+ Just Right
http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/justright/index.htm
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1281
Otter/Lissa
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1197

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ks8
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by ks8 » Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:54 am

That's what I mean Cameron, when I say there are some liberties with the tiller and rudderhead, once you understand the function and have an idea of what is strong enough, and what conveniences you would like to incorporate. Justin is one of the builders who enjoys exploring what others have done, and comes up with a mousetrap more suited to his preferences. :)

I like his idea of quickly removing rudder and tiller. I may swap out my pivot bolt and replace it with the spring loaded coupler pin on trailer hitches, so I don't have to unscrew the retaining nut.

Image

WouldWork
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by WouldWork » Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:48 am

Hi guys, I'm back on track. Had a couple of set-backs in the form of 'losing my job', took a short while to find another.

Anyway, I bumped into an old friend who's a cabinet maker, who supplied me with full 8 x 4 marine ply at a similar price to the usual (Australian std size) 1200x2400mm exterior ply I've used previously. Long story short, the ply turned up on Friday and it's full steam ahead.

Image

My cabinet maker friend also gave me a long thin piece of aluminium that is brilliant for scribing the curves in the panels. I simply put a little brad nail either side of the mark along the panel and slide the aluminium in between for a perfect curve.

A few hours measuring and cutting and here's where I am now.

Image

Now although the plans supply all the measurements for the bottom panels the recommendation is to assemble what I have and scribe the bottom panels from the semi-assembled hull. I'm guessing that inaccuracies in measuring and cutting as well as ply stiffness can make a significant difference in the exact measurements required to have the bottom panels line up adequately?

Tomorrow I'll glue on the butt blocks and when set, assemble the transom, frames and sides.

Hopefully more pics in the coming days.

Cheers

Cameron.
Completed: CC14 Canoe and V12 sail boat.

WouldWork
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by WouldWork » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:40 pm

Just been informed that my ply is 'finishing ply', indoor only, they gave me ply from the wrong corner of the wharehouse. Since I've started cutting however I'm not eligible for a refund. I didn't budget for this obviously so the build is off. I can no longer justify the cost of this boat. Sorry for taking up space on the board.

Cameron.
Completed: CC14 Canoe and V12 sail boat.

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ks8
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Re: WouldWork's V12, Sailing version

Post by ks8 » Sun Sep 30, 2012 11:06 pm

Sorry to hear that. :(

Hopefully one day soon, things will turn around. No apologies needed at all, except perhaps from the guy that pulled your plywood. :doh:

If the day comes soon when you are back at, come on back and give us some pictures. Maybe you could use your current parts as templates when proper wood is obtained? :)

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