Well, there are four issues I can think of...
1- You probably need to bring the glass all the way down to wood in the bad areas, if it is bad like in my pictures.
2 - This means you need to feather it so that you can leave the glass that has no bubbling problem (yet). I used a very light touch with the dremel, in many passes, to take down the large bubbling areas of glass faster than the ro, and then I finished it off with the RO with 120, to fair it a bit, and finally 100 by hand as prep for the seal coat.
3- There is the possibility that the sanding dust may find its way into very small pits or craters. Vaccum this out dry, and or blast it out with compressed air. Do this BEFORE you do any sort of alcohol wipe to see how it will look resealed. I used alcohol because it evaporated much quicker than water, but it does have some water in the 70%, so it needs an overnight dry before resealing with epoxy. If you do not remove all the dust before the wet wipe (or damp wipe), the dust turns into white paste and works its way into those small pits and craters, and it doesn't go clear. Ugh!
I got most of it out with a straight pin, enough so that what remained did go transparent.
4- And finally, will the refinished surface get weird uneven once it heats up in the sun? Don't know yet. And at this point, I'm not worrying about it.
Now, if you've got the urocel on there already, then of course you've got to properly feather in your epoxy resealing and urocel protection when the rest is done. Since I had not LPU'd the rails yet, I didn't have this issue to deal with, and I think I'm going to redo the stbd rail also before the clear LPU hits it.
Hope that helps. Post some pictures on your thread.
As I said in the earlier post, it looks MUCH better than it did, though I was hoping for a little better, but it is still plenty good now.
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