Welp, I got to tear into it some today.
I think rather than running a straight edge across the top of the hull and measuring down to the sole, I am going to measure up from the hull to the top of the stringers at various locations from the transom forward. Reason being the top of the hull is not straight, since it does not have to be and is pretty much as it comes out of the mold with some rough trimming. Additionaly the plywood is delaminated, swelled, broken, wavy, etc. On the other hand, the hull adjacent to the fillets is fairly smooth, so I think I will get better consistancy by measuring from the hull to the top of the stringers once the plywood soles are removed. Thoughts?
Anyhow, today started by going to Lowes and getting some parts for an old Holley Blue pump so I can drain the tank. Filled my Golf, Mustang, and F150 until they flowed over, and still had about 7 gallons to put in jugs. I hope the cars like premix
Note some of these photos are not for public value, but my comments will serve as documentation for me later as to what I did.
After getting the gas tank out, I took some shots of the floation boxes in the rear.
Right side floatation box(still rusty on the port/starboard thing, sorry).. I dont know what the peice of angle screwed to the top is for...
Right side box again, with lousy glass in job. Skeeter must not know that polyester does not stick well to plastic, or they just didnt give a damn.. Im voting for number two...
Left side box.. The foam is full of water even on the top side. If I push down through the hole water comes out...
Right side box again...
I cut the glass that was holding the box to the boat. I figured I would just peel the box right off... NO... I had to cut the box into three peices(woo hoo, more work for later!) so I could peel it away.
In case Im the only one who realizes this, removing floation foam SUCKS. As can be see in the picture, I started by using the claw side of the hammer to rip out peices. Its a bajillion degrees here in Florida and Im working outside in a tyvek bunny suit, so that didnt last long. From there I used a long screwdriver to stab the foam and try to break it out. Thats actually how I got rid of most of this mess. Later, I found a putty knife works ok(note, I didnt say great) at cutting the foam. Another trick I came up with was to use the sawzall to try to cut the foam into cubes. That works ok too. IF ANYONE HAS ANOTHER METHOD, SPEAK UP!!
Fast forward about 5 or 6 hours and a 4lb personal weight reduction(no joke).... I tried trimming the fillets for the knee braces and getting them out.. no deal. I even took the sawzall and ran it down the transom to cut it loose, then tried to knock it over, no deal. One thing I noticed is that the trasom was screwed to the knee braces. Im guessing Skeeter attaches the knee braces to the transom, then puts it in as a an assembly.
So I gave up on knocking out the knee braces for now, and moved on to the sole. I cut out between where I thought the stringers would be. Woo hoo, more foam.
The rear of the boat is on the right, the front on the left.. My hull is not "flat" on the bottom. As can be seen in the previous photos, the livewell pumps are mounted to the transom of the boat as well, but this is not the same transom that the engine attaches to, it is further foward so there is like a step in the rear transom. I noticed that between the center two stringers is the only place this area is wood reinforced. between the two outer stringers this lower part of the transom is just thick glass.
The outer right stringer and knee brace. The knee brace is made seperate from the sringer, but it is bonded to the side. This means the sole had to be notched for the knee brace, and installed afterwards. Joel, looks like the idea of incorporating the knee braces to the stringer was already done in a similar fasion by Skeeter.
Center/Left stringer profile. The rear sole(under the trash can) is made out of 3/8 or 1/2" plywood. I will measure tomorrow. Looks like the stringers and knee braces are 3/4", and the rear transom was 1.5".
So far I havent found any stringers running cross ways yet.
I plan to remove all the flooring/foam first to see the stringer design, let Joel know a rough length and height of the stringers as well as the thickeness and sizing of the soles.. it varies and the elevation changes. Even though the cap is obviously seperate, I think its supposed to rest on the soles in the hull. The elevation changes I think are for the bait wells, storage lockers, floor, decks, etc.