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1988 Skeeter SK2000 Transom/Stringer/Sole Repair

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.

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1988 Skeeter SK2000 Transom/Stringer/Sole Repair

Postby SkeeterSK » Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:57 pm

Ok, heres my thread to document a repair as well as ask a bazillion questions. LOL...

Im going to skip all the random BS and just hop right to it.. I spent more than a few HOURS today reading the Bomber transom replacement.. Even the pi$$ing matches about the wood choice. Please, I dont want that in mine, although I do have alot of questions and love input.

Anyhow, we're off..

Here is a pic showing how the transom was constructed.. there are 4 knee braces, the two center braces overlap onto the stringers.

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Transom is shot..The wood that is left is more like old leaves. I can dig it out with no effort with a long screwdriver...

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Knee braces are empty too, atleast in the center ones where the factory was bright enough to drill it for lifting eyes...

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Would you technically call these "floors" the "sole"? Or are they just horizontal braces?
Anyhow, the factory simply coated these enough to fair them in. the centers were uncoated, which is why its totally rotten..
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In front of the rear most sole, but behind the gas tank and the side of the gas tank.. again, totally rotten...

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Moving to the front of the gas tank, the raised section board between the rod lockers is actually still good, and ironically its the only board in the boat that was covered with resin all the way...But its going to have to be taken out anyhow to remove the rotten stringers under it...

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Its kind of hard to see in the pic, but just next to the nav light you can see where the cap floor wore through the stiffener. What can i replace this with? Some kind of flexible foam, then glass over?

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Postby SkeeterSK » Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:07 pm

So anyhow, heres what i plan to do.
Once I figure out what to do with 40 gallons of premix I need to remove the gas tank. First I will take some good measurements though so it goes back in the same place...

Then I plan to remove(probably in this order) the knee braces, floatation boxes, the soles, and the transom skin. I will then begin removing the stringers and foam.
I plan to use cut off wheels to trim the fiared edges, one to leave a distinct cut line I can use to assist me in making templates. Once I have templates and good fitting replacment panels I will grind whats left of the joints smooth.

Once all that is done I will start by replacing the stringers.

Then I will replace the transom. I notice many times you recommend bonding the transom boards together, then gluing it to the hull, then attaching the bracing to it..
Is there an issue with bonding my transom boards together, then fabricatingg the knee braces and sole, temporarily screwing it together with blocks, removing it, then screwing the knee braces to the transom and sole with long screws from the rear and bottom into the knee braces, then removing the temporary blocks, then putting it into the boat and glassing it all in?
I guess what i am concerned about is if I glue/fair the sole in, then I do the transom boards, then the only thing that holds the knee braces to the transom is my fillets and the glass. Or am I worrying about nothing.

Also, I plan on using the E-poxy. I saw on BBC guys talking about using Rot Doctor CPES. Its an epoxy based preservative that soaks into the wood with capilary action. Do you guys recommend such a product?

Lastly(for now) since my boat has sponsons, should I infact put a layer of biaxial on the aft side of my transom board, since only about a 2.5' section of the board is going to be bonded to the outer skin?
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Postby shine » Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:29 pm

OK, now we have a project 8O 8O

The only boat I have seen with more rot is our Aquasport. :D

The manufacturer should be absolutely ashamed of that boat. Look at all the edges and holes that were never sealed :!: The carpet trapped the moister accelerating the inevitable. When they sold that boat, they knew it would look like that in 15 years.

You are going to have remove everything. Follow the Aquasport thread at t his stage.

For the knees, what we would recommend is to make them extensions of the stringers (one piece), then have the sole wrap around it and glass it to the knee/stringer extension.

You plan for the demo is sound, take measurements of the height of the old sole. You will want to rebuild her with the same sole height.

There is no need for penetrating epoxy, we are going to encapsulate the wood. Penetrating epoxy is for wood thats already begun to rot. If your going to rebuild with marine plywood, the marinepoxy is great.

To rebuild the inside structure we are going to need to know:

the thickness, number, and spacing of the stringers and frames.

the thickness of the transom

the thickness of the boat hull (minimum thickness)

Also, approximate weight and what sort of speed you see
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Postby Cracker Larry » Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:31 pm

Well, if it were mine, I think I'd jack up those fuel tanks and build a new boat around them :P

But I wish you the best of luck and will follow with interest :D
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Postby SkeeterSK » Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:49 pm

Cracker Larry wrote:Well, if it were mine, I think I'd jack up those fuel tanks and build a new boat around them :P

But I wish you the best of luck and will follow with interest :D


LOL Larry....

I thought about just getting another boat that maybe had a blown motor or something someone bought just for the motor and transferring everything else over, but chances are whatever I buy would be just as lousy in a matter of a few years anyhow...

The boat really has alot of nice stuff on it.. Its got hydraulic steering, jackplate, hot foot, nice engine, lots of space, plenty of storage lockers, etc.
It would be a great boat if it wasnt such a POS at the same time.
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Postby Tagged » Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:53 pm

SkeeterSK wrote:
It would be a great boat if it wasnt such a POS


Man I know what you mean!

Haven't we each been there???

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Postby SkeeterSK » Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:12 pm

shine wrote:OK, now we have a project 8O 8O

The only boat I have seen with more rot is our Aquasport. :D


Geez, thanks alot!!!

I tell you what, if you want another "how to" project for your website, I will haul the boat down to your shop and let yall take care of it. No charge. Its a win win for the both of us. :lol: I got a good feeling that offer will go over like a fart in an elevator, but hey, doesnt hurt to ask. Even the defense attorneys of the most guilty ask that the charges be dropped at the end of trial as a formality.

Anyhow, I wholeheartedly agree with you that Skeeter should be ashamed. The funny thing is they are regarded as pretty nice boats, but I guess thats just by the guys who have 40-50K to blow on them and sell them before they rot away.

Like you said, the amount of edges that were never sealed is apalling. And what I find even more unexcusable is the panels that werent even coated. I have pictures where those sole's that have holes cut in them for drainage holes are now gone, because I stepped on them and my feet fell through! I didnt even have a .020" layer of resin to fall through, because there was none there. It probably doesnt show in the pictures but where the stringers extend forward from the sole, only the sides are coated. Where I removed some of the sole, the stringers are bare along the top edge too.

Im sure there is alot I can take from the Aquasport thread. That is also referenced on your site in HTML format as well isnt it? I was reading about it the other day before I came to the forum. That was slightly different though in that you chopped off the outer skin as well.

As for the CPES, the guys at BBC are using it as a preventative, to keep it from rotting. Granted I do have a limit on what i want to repair this and there would be a cost savings by not using it, but I think I am more concerned with the CPES causing issues with the epoxy you sell.

How do I get the thickness of the hull? and +- here.. we talking within the nearest 1/4" or the nearest 1/16"? Id say it varies pretty greatly depending on where you would measure it. If I had to guess Id say its somewhere around 3/16".


The 4 stringers appear to be made of 3/4". I have limited visibilty to the cross stringers at this point, but Im guessing they are made of similar material. The center two are 20" apart(for the most part), and then the outer ones are 11.5" from the edge of the center ones I beleive. I'll take some better measurements once the gas tank and sole is removed.


How you propose to do the knee braces is interesting. It will necessitate some pretty complex pattern making though, as it will have to be notched for the transom board. Additionally if you were to veiwl my hull from the side the rear is stepped. Notice the location of the livewell pumps. I think I can still manage that though.


Top speed of the boat is probably the mid 60s. I only had it out twice, and it ran 45 but the engine was running really funny, and its hauling around 500 gallons of water thats in the stringer boxes that has no way to drain. Weight I have no real idea. Are you hinting redesign the layout of the stringers and soles? I was planning to rebuild it how it came apart, but also open to suggestion.
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Postby SkeeterSK » Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:17 pm

Oh yeah, at the moment I plan on replacing ALL the foam. My rough estimates come up with 18-20cu ft. I will be mixing this in central florida heat, and central florida humidity.. Can take the rated expansion of 2 gals=8cu.ft pretty close?
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Postby SkeeterSK » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:13 pm

Welp, I got to tear into it some today.
I think rather than running a straight edge across the top of the hull and measuring down to the sole, I am going to measure up from the hull to the top of the stringers at various locations from the transom forward. Reason being the top of the hull is not straight, since it does not have to be and is pretty much as it comes out of the mold with some rough trimming. Additionaly the plywood is delaminated, swelled, broken, wavy, etc. On the other hand, the hull adjacent to the fillets is fairly smooth, so I think I will get better consistancy by measuring from the hull to the top of the stringers once the plywood soles are removed. Thoughts?

Anyhow, today started by going to Lowes and getting some parts for an old Holley Blue pump so I can drain the tank. Filled my Golf, Mustang, and F150 until they flowed over, and still had about 7 gallons to put in jugs. I hope the cars like premix :D

Note some of these photos are not for public value, but my comments will serve as documentation for me later as to what I did.

After getting the gas tank out, I took some shots of the floation boxes in the rear.

Right side floatation box(still rusty on the port/starboard thing, sorry).. I dont know what the peice of angle screwed to the top is for...
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Right side box again, with lousy glass in job. Skeeter must not know that polyester does not stick well to plastic, or they just didnt give a damn.. Im voting for number two...

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Left side box.. The foam is full of water even on the top side. If I push down through the hole water comes out...

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Right side box again...

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I cut the glass that was holding the box to the boat. I figured I would just peel the box right off... NO... I had to cut the box into three peices(woo hoo, more work for later!) so I could peel it away.
In case Im the only one who realizes this, removing floation foam SUCKS. As can be see in the picture, I started by using the claw side of the hammer to rip out peices. Its a bajillion degrees here in Florida and Im working outside in a tyvek bunny suit, so that didnt last long. From there I used a long screwdriver to stab the foam and try to break it out. Thats actually how I got rid of most of this mess. Later, I found a putty knife works ok(note, I didnt say great) at cutting the foam. Another trick I came up with was to use the sawzall to try to cut the foam into cubes. That works ok too. IF ANYONE HAS ANOTHER METHOD, SPEAK UP!! :lol:

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Fast forward about 5 or 6 hours and a 4lb personal weight reduction(no joke).... I tried trimming the fillets for the knee braces and getting them out.. no deal. I even took the sawzall and ran it down the transom to cut it loose, then tried to knock it over, no deal. One thing I noticed is that the trasom was screwed to the knee braces. Im guessing Skeeter attaches the knee braces to the transom, then puts it in as a an assembly.
So I gave up on knocking out the knee braces for now, and moved on to the sole. I cut out between where I thought the stringers would be. Woo hoo, more foam.

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The rear of the boat is on the right, the front on the left.. My hull is not "flat" on the bottom. As can be seen in the previous photos, the livewell pumps are mounted to the transom of the boat as well, but this is not the same transom that the engine attaches to, it is further foward so there is like a step in the rear transom. I noticed that between the center two stringers is the only place this area is wood reinforced. between the two outer stringers this lower part of the transom is just thick glass.

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The outer right stringer and knee brace. The knee brace is made seperate from the sringer, but it is bonded to the side. This means the sole had to be notched for the knee brace, and installed afterwards. Joel, looks like the idea of incorporating the knee braces to the stringer was already done in a similar fasion by Skeeter.

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Center/Left stringer profile. The rear sole(under the trash can) is made out of 3/8 or 1/2" plywood. I will measure tomorrow. Looks like the stringers and knee braces are 3/4", and the rear transom was 1.5".
So far I havent found any stringers running cross ways yet.

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I plan to remove all the flooring/foam first to see the stringer design, let Joel know a rough length and height of the stringers as well as the thickeness and sizing of the soles.. it varies and the elevation changes. Even though the cap is obviously seperate, I think its supposed to rest on the soles in the hull. The elevation changes I think are for the bait wells, storage lockers, floor, decks, etc.
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Postby SkeeterSK » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:16 pm

Oh yeah, I see people always say they are going to try to keep the foam.. Look at the foam in the last pic.. It looks dry. For the most part it is... But its still WET...
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