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Panga 22 Imemsa project- Need lots of help and advice!!!

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Panga 22 Imemsa project- Need lots of help and advice!!!

Postby panga_tampa » Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:23 pm

This past summer I acquired a 22 foot Imemsa Panga boat. The boat came from the factory without a sole and has exposed ribs, and I'm wanting to install a sole and everything else to make it a functional center console boat. I have a 90 hp 2 stroke evinrude that I plan on installing on it. I have slew of questions about this type of project since I've never done anything close to this type of refurb. But, I'll start out with just a few questions:

1. Has anyone done this type of mod (ie. installing sole on factory Panga22)?

2. Do I have to remove the ribs or can they be incorporated into a stringer system?

3. Is there any shareware software that I can use to determine CG, LWL, CB, and all those other importan variables?

4. If project is too complex, any recommendations on reputable fiberglass shop in the Tampa Bay area that could do these mods?

5. How do I attach photos to a message on this website? I have tons of photos of the boat.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Earl D.
Tampa, FL
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Re: Panga 22 Imemsa project- Need lots of help and advice!!!

Postby jacquesmm » Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:33 pm

panga_tampa wrote:This past summer I acquired a 22 foot Imemsa Panga boat. The boat came from the factory without a sole and has exposed ribs, and I'm wanting to install a sole and everything else to make it a functional center console boat. I have a 90 hp 2 stroke evinrude that I plan on installing on it. I have slew of questions about this type of project since I've never done anything close to this type of refurb. But, I'll start out with just a few questions:

1. Has anyone done this type of mod (ie. installing sole on factory Panga22)?

Probably, it is not a difficult project.

2. Do I have to remove the ribs or can they be incorporated into a stringer system?


Leave them in

3. Is there any shareware software that I can use to determine CG, LWL, CB, and all those other importan variables?

CG you can measure on the trailer, somebody posted the method last year but trial and error works well: balance the boat on the axis.
LWL: just measure.
You do not need to measure all that. Put your console at 45% of the LWL measured from the transom and you will be close enough.

4. If project is too complex, any recommendations on reputable fiberglass shop in the Tampa Bay area that could do these mods?

5. How do I attach photos to a message on this website? I have tons of photos of the boat.

See this:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?t=8718

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Earl D.
Tampa, FL


Joel will respond about materials, I'll keep watching the thread for the design side, console location etc.
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Just uploaded Panga22 photos

Postby panga_tampa » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:14 pm

Hi Jacques,

Thanks for the info. I just uploaded photos into my photo gallery on this site (Panga22 Panga_tampa folder). As you can see there is a rudimentary frame and sole which I built just to be able to go out and see how the boat floats, which I hope to do once I hang the 90 hp evinrude on the boat. I'll upload more when I get a chance.

Thanks for the help.

EJD
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Postby Cracker Larry » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:20 pm

Let's put a picture here to make it easier..

Image

Looks like a great project to me 8) I don't think it would be too imense or complex if you have some DIY skills.

If you don't want to tackle it, I'll take it off your hands :lol:
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Postby jacquesmm » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:34 pm

That is some heavy duty framing.
Do you want that sole to be above the waterline? At this point, the easiest way to check is to launch the boat and see where the waterline is.
You started with a heavy boat, I think that Panga 22 is around 2,500 lbs without engine, two times what our PG22 weighs.
It's possible to build what you want but what do you except from us?
Tampa is not too far, you could pick up all the supplies and avoid shipping charges.
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Postby shine » Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:21 am

wow, yes that framing is pretty heavy duty (heavy in weight also :wink: ).

I definitely would agree that now is the time to mark a water line on the boat. From there we will know where to put the sole. With any luck it will be at least a few inches below the top of those frames.

That way with 3/8" or 1/2" plywood for the sole, there should be enough room for the boat to self bail even with the added weight of: enigine, fuel, bait well, cooler/ice, the sole, and a console,.

As for what thickness of plywood for the sole.... We need a measurement of the longest unsupported span in that framing.

If it were me:

Step1) find a water line

step2) coat all the frames with several coats of epoxy, you will probably want to make a bilge or sump area at the stern

step3) run chase tubes for rigging, use the gray electrical PVC with the wide sweeps

step4) fill with foam and epoxy down new sole to the framing.

5) fair it and paint
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Postby 2stinger » Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:44 am

I have put two soles into two different size pangas. A friend of mine was importing a line called Starlite built much like the one you have. We had to add soles and floatation to get USCG certification to sell them. We made foam stringers and a foam deck and filled voids with floatation foam because we were selling them. After the sole is in the boat is much stiffer if it wasn't already. My father actually fractured his leg getting into one of the pangas before the sole was in, I don't know how they use them without it.

We just had open side scuppers but a sump is a good idea to have. Our soles were placed about 2 inches above the waterline at the stern and sloped up a little towards the bow.
Thank's

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Postby panga_tampa » Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:57 pm

Thanks for the replies. I built the 2x4 frames as a temporary setup to be able to float test the boat, but I'm not sure how I should build the permanent frame since I don't want this boat to weigh too much.

If starting from scratch how would you recommend the sole should be installed (i.e plywood bulkheads, cleats along the inner hull to mount the plywood sole, etc.)?

Also, what are general rules of thumbs for bracing the floor, meaning how far apart can the supports be from each other, if the plywood sole is 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick?

The person who I bought the hull from suggested that I add flotation foam, but to encapsulate it with fiberglass to completely seal it; then install the sole on top of it. Does that sound like a good idea?

How large of gas tank should I install for 90 HP 2 stroke evinrude (circa early 1990's)?

Would it be okay to install the gas tank above the sole, or is it necessary to have under the sole?

For an above deck tank, do you recommend a plastic or aluminum tank?

Thanks so much for your help.

Cheers,

EJD
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Postby jacquesmm » Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:29 pm

panga_tampa wrote:Thanks for the replies. I built the 2x4 frames as a temporary setup to be able to float test the boat, but I'm not sure how I should build the permanent frame since I don't want this boat to weigh too much.

If starting from scratch how would you recommend the sole should be installed (i.e plywood bulkheads, cleats along the inner hull to mount the plywood sole, etc.)?

Also, what are general rules of thumbs for bracing the floor, meaning how far apart can the supports be from each other, if the plywood sole is 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick?

If you fill with foam, you can go light. A frame work of stringers and floor frames made from 1/2" plywood with plenty of lightening holes, small cleats on each side, welded to hull and to each other with biaxial tape 6 oz and epoxy, spaced 3' lengthwise, 2' across approximately or just put them on the existing stringers and frames. Top with max. 1/2" plywood, 3/8 is fine, taped with fiberglass to the sides (biaxial 12 oz.) then covered with 6 or 9 oz. woven overlapping the sides.


The person who I bought the hull from suggested that I add flotation foam, but to encapsulate it with fiberglass to completely seal it; then install the sole on top of it. Does that sound like a good idea?

Yes if you can get it at the right level but not need to fiberglass if you use our closed cell foam.

How large of gas tank should I install for 90 HP 2 stroke evinrude (circa early 1990's)?

Would it be okay to install the gas tank above the sole, or is it necessary to have under the sole?

For an above deck tank, do you recommend a plastic or aluminum tank?

Plastic (polyethylene) above is OK and you decide how much you want.

Thanks so much for your help.

Cheers,

EJD
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Postby JimW » Fri Sep 28, 2007 8:22 am

That's my kind of project! Nice clean naked hull. No demolishing required! You will have a nice boat when finished and you will bypass much of the nastiness of a "normal" rebuild.

I would loose that heavy frame and construct a plywood - epoxy - glass composite egg crate sructure under the sole like Jacques recommends. The boats capacity to carry people and cargo will be significantly improved. It won't be difficult and you'll reap the benefits for years.

Good Luck.
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