Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

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seatime
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Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by seatime » Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:02 am

OK boys...I'm down to the final stuff. How do you keep the daggerboard from falling through the trunk opening, There is nothing in the plans that address this obvious condition. I don't want to just tie it in and cleat it off. My thoughts are to epoxy a mahogany collar or cleats around the top of the daggerboard that will serve as a stopper...please advise, lads. (The daggerboard and rudder are mahogany).


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Jaysen
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by Jaysen » Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am

seatime wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:02 am
My thoughts are to epoxy a mahogany collar or cleats around the top of the daggerboard that will serve as a stopper...please advise, lads. (The daggerboard and rudder are mahogany).
That's the answer. But you can also use a dowel but ... mahogany is pretty.

I like the thinner section to grab and lift so I went with dowels. 1.5" below top of dagger, 1.5" in from edges. I thought about just making cleats that went on the leading and trailing edges of the dagger but then... just ugly.

seatime
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by seatime » Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:10 pm

Thanks Jaysen...I will go with mahogany cleats 1 inch x1 inch...should I fit the bottom edge of the cleat 1 1/2 inches from top of dagger or the top of the cleat 1 1/2 inches from the top of the dagger? I suppose one would want all the board hanging out the bottom of the boat one can get.

Another thing...I have stainless bolts for the gudgeons and pintle mounting The nuts have plastic inserts to keep them from backing off plus a lock washer...I have brass bolts for the oar lock hardware. I plan to use Loctite blue on the stainless...what experience have you had with using it on brass. I am concerned that the "play" and stressors in these areas will cause the nuts to back off eventually thus the Loctite.
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by Jaysen » Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:24 pm

The location is a "how you feel" thing. Make sure that you have the tapered edges down but not the untapered edges. you may want to use something thinner than 1x1 if you are going on both sides. it might be a bit thick. But it needs to feel right TO YOU. :)

on the bolts.
1. Make sure you over drill and fill and holes
2. Loctite should be ok. I typically use red for everything. It NOT use it on the nylon lock nuts though. I'd replace those with normal nuts or be very careful to avoid getting it on the nylon. I'm not sure how it will interact with the nylon.
3. Experience with Loctite... Never had any reaction with anything other than rubber and plastics. No issues with any metal. Again, that's red.
4. What are you using to prevent water intrusion through the hole you are drilling in the hull? I used screws (over drill and fill) but with no "through" I wasn't concerned with any sealing of the hole to prevent seeping.

terrulian
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by terrulian » Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:47 pm

I don't think the Loctite is necessary. Never used it in similar situations and you've got nylocks and lockwashers, which is already belts and braces. I suppose it wouldn't hurt.
Of course double drill as Jaysen says and some kind of sealant, maybe 5200 but in my dotage I've mostly begun to go back to silicone for anything that I may someday want to replace. With no problems. I got this tip from one of the most experienced riggers in Northern California.

Come to think of it, at my age I think anything I did along these lines would outlast me by decades.
Last edited by terrulian on Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jaysen
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by Jaysen » Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:50 pm

T, wouldn't 5200 be ... overkill? I mean he's through bolting, not just screwing. I was thinking silicone around the bolt head, a gasket around the base, and again on the threads in board. Heck, just silicone on the bases may be enough when you consider just how little force will really be applied.

I'm assuming he's not racing nor has he been turned green by a burst of gamma radiation.

terrulian
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by terrulian » Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:54 pm

Yes, that's what I was saying, I wouldn't use 5200 there myself, but it wouldn't be that unusual.
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Jaysen
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by Jaysen » Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:57 pm

terrulian wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:54 pm
Yes, that's what I was saying, I wouldn't use 5200 there myself, but it wouldn't be that unusual.
and it would need a gamma burst impacted individual to remove later :)

seatime
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by seatime » Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:25 am

Called Loctite and they gave a nod to the blue product on brass. I have ss nylon nuts for the gudgeons and pintle bolts but could not find them locally for the brass used on the brass oarlocks. Yes silicon is what I have always used to seal through hull bolts and some bedding. 5200 for more serious jobs. I will bed the above in marine silicon.
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Re: Dagger board and trunk on Prameke

Post by terrulian » Thu Sep 28, 2017 10:14 am

How are you attaching the oarlocks with bolts, and what type of oarlocks are you using? Most versions just screw in, with the lateral forces from the oars perpendicular to the screws, providing the most strength.
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