Franks SK14 from Japan

Boats up to 15' for oars, power or sail. Please include the boat type in your question.
NavyBuilder13
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by NavyBuilder13 » Sat May 05, 2018 7:58 am

Making saw dust has began.
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Jaysen
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by Jaysen » Sat May 05, 2018 9:14 am

Frank, just a word from one former wood worker to a new builder... you need to forget about accuracy. You actually want some spaces between pieces. Accuracy should be considered in 1/8” increments. The thickened epoxy fills the gaps and helps prevent hard spots and makes bends a bit easier. And if your concerned about strength, that epoxy is harder than wood. That said, I built from a cnc kit. Hard to be more accurate that that!

Your panels look great. Everyone here likes pics. And folks will be quick to chip in with wanted (and unwanted) advice.

Build on!
Jaysen wrote:
Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:44 pm
I tried to say something but God thought I was wrong and filled my mouth with saltwater. I kept my pie hole shut after that.

NavyBuilder13
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by NavyBuilder13 » Sat May 05, 2018 9:46 am

Thanks for the feedback, I will keep that in mind moving forward.

NavyBuilder13
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by NavyBuilder13 » Sat May 05, 2018 9:55 am

Tomorrow I will start Mikes sea slug hatches with the gutter system.
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Jeff
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by Jeff » Sat May 05, 2018 3:30 pm

NavyBuilder13, let us know when your kit arrives!!! Jeff

seaslug
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by seaslug » Sat May 05, 2018 10:23 pm

Hey Frank, I'm looking forward to seeing your build, and it's good to see someone else making hatches this way. Some tips from my experience; If you want to have truly water tight hatches be sure to make the gutter large enough, minimum 1" wide, by at least 1" deep, preferably deeper, mine are about 2" deep from the top of the deck which is 3/8" ply. I use a top bearing router bit to remove the material, using the deck cut out for a guide that the bearing rides on, and I make a plywood template for the inside of the gutter. Remember the inside lip of the gutter needs to be about 3/16" to 1/4" lower for the peel and stick gasket material. For drains I epoxy in 3/4" or 1" PVC elbows in the bottom corners of the gutters, and run pipe to wherever you want them to drain and epoxy the pipe to a hole drilled into the bulkhead. If the gutters are large enough, with large enough drains, and a lid that tightens down against the gasket, you'll have a totally dry compartment. 2 years of running my FS18 on hundreds of fishing trips, with a good wash down with the hose afterwards, and I've never had a single drop of water make it below deck. It's also comforting to know I can roll my boat upside down and not a drop of water would get into the boat. If you take your time and plan the hatches right from the start, you'll be a much happier boater without your storage area always wet and moldy. Build on. Mike

NavyBuilder13
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by NavyBuilder13 » Mon May 07, 2018 4:01 am

My pattern bit was MIA so I decided to use a dado stack for the sides and plunge cut the top and bottom. Little more sanding a smoothing out to go yet. Thanks for the tips Mike.
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NavyBuilder13
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by NavyBuilder13 » Thu May 10, 2018 3:26 am

Thanks Jeff... Now I can really get started.
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OrangeQuest

Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by OrangeQuest » Thu May 10, 2018 5:39 am

Hatch opening looking good!

Jeff
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Re: Franks SK14 from Japan

Post by Jeff » Thu May 10, 2018 7:17 am

NavyBuilder13, Not too bad for US Postal Service--Vero Beach Florida to Japan in less than 7 days with no damage!!! Good stuff!! Really like that work on the hatches!! Jeff

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