
25 pro line fuel tank replacement
Re: 25 pro line fuel tank replacement
Old tank is out. Going to put 2 new tanks in, one for each motor. Do I need a bulkhead between the two? And should the new tanks be foamed in when reinstalled to secure them?
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Re: 25 pro line fuel tank replacement
I really do not know of a reason you need a bulkhead between the tanks.
As for foam or not that is a question that has been debated a lot. I think most folks will say no foam and keep an air gap around the tank.
The other school says hey it lasted 20-30 years foamed in how long do you really need it to last?
So not much help from me, sorry
As for foam or not that is a question that has been debated a lot. I think most folks will say no foam and keep an air gap around the tank.
The other school says hey it lasted 20-30 years foamed in how long do you really need it to last?
So not much help from me, sorry

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Re: 25 pro line fuel tank replacement
There is a regulation on how much movement is allowed on the tanks. Essentially the rule is that the tanks must not move. You need to strap them down. The only thing for your situation is you will have trouble strapping down the front tank properly if you slide it in, so you'll need to make sure the forward tank can't move is all.
If the foam was part of an overall calculation for flotation; it would be a little foolish to remove the tanks and not add back the foam and have the boat sink if it ever took on water. Trouble is the If at the beginning of this paragraph. If not, then no foam.
I rather like the idea of using two tanks. One for each motor. I like sender access, so I'd put the tanks so the senders are reachable. You'll need to make sure the front tank has all its stuff aft, like the vent, fill, and sender, and then not sure how you'll do the fill..
I don't know if a common fill is allowed and I know for sure each tank requires its own vent. A few of the other guys are smarter about fuel tanks than me. You could post a separate thread on the fuel tank fill and vent.
Are you going to make a removeable panel?
If the foam was part of an overall calculation for flotation; it would be a little foolish to remove the tanks and not add back the foam and have the boat sink if it ever took on water. Trouble is the If at the beginning of this paragraph. If not, then no foam.
I rather like the idea of using two tanks. One for each motor. I like sender access, so I'd put the tanks so the senders are reachable. You'll need to make sure the front tank has all its stuff aft, like the vent, fill, and sender, and then not sure how you'll do the fill..
I don't know if a common fill is allowed and I know for sure each tank requires its own vent. A few of the other guys are smarter about fuel tanks than me. You could post a separate thread on the fuel tank fill and vent.
Are you going to make a removeable panel?
Re: 25 pro line fuel tank replacement
Was going to glass the panel back down. I think it would be stronger that way.
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: 25 pro line fuel tank replacement
No bulkhead required but leave an air gap. Aluminum hates to have damp surface (like foam with thin layer of water trapped between the tank and foam)
A common fill is ok but it's just one more connection that you can't see (at the Tee fitting). I'd go for two.
To make glass tape stick when applying upside down:
- wet out on a flat surface that has been covered with some 4mil plastic
- remove excess resin with a plastic squeegee
- sprinkle some colloidal silica onto surface and squeegee in. You want about as much as you would put Parmesan on pasta, unless you are Italian. Then use less silica
- roll up tape and take to boat
- apply a few inches at a time, spreading each section with fingers wearing gloves or a squeegee. It will stick.
A common fill is ok but it's just one more connection that you can't see (at the Tee fitting). I'd go for two.
To make glass tape stick when applying upside down:
- wet out on a flat surface that has been covered with some 4mil plastic
- remove excess resin with a plastic squeegee
- sprinkle some colloidal silica onto surface and squeegee in. You want about as much as you would put Parmesan on pasta, unless you are Italian. Then use less silica

- roll up tape and take to boat
- apply a few inches at a time, spreading each section with fingers wearing gloves or a squeegee. It will stick.
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