Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
fallguy1000
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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by fallguy1000 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 1:12 pm

Sealant on all through hulls. The way you do splasheell with a ply core is a 1/2" minimum overbore amd refill with thickened epoxy, let cure and drill out to the drain dimension. Make sure no wood is visible or redo it.

Then seal with 3M 4000, 4200, or 5200. You want some flexibility versus a crack there. The risk in epoxy is a stress crack or a failure to bond to the drain material well.

Epoxy on in hull limbers, chase and others.


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Maxicraft
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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by Maxicraft » Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:16 pm

Fallguy1000,

I did a 1/4" over bore size which leaves me 1/8" epoxy wall between the bore and wood. I used the 105/205/404 high density fillers for the fill. Did these while the transom wood was out laying flat so I could get a good fill. I have some 5200 I was planning on using for through penetrations. All the work I have done so far has been with epoxy except where I'm going to have to do gelcoat work. Which is only the back of the transom, where I raised it 2.5". Then it was only a thin layer < 1/16" thick. I used epoxy and 1708 to build the inside of the transom back to original thickness + a little more.

I've been debating on using the 105/205 + 406 for the main drain. I'm not planning on having to ever do this again. Epoxy should stick without any issues. My little boat is only powdered by a 25 hp outboard so there should be little to no flex in the transom. Particularity since it's stronger than it was originally.

The splash well originally had no drains when I bought the boat, I added 2, one on each side of the motor. One of them was used for my bilge pump discharge. It was also carpeted when caused issues with the motor clamp loosening up. I installed a clamp plate for the feet to set into so it would not move around. There was no wood either. They just sprayed the glass over the foam to make the splash well. The only time I ever have to run it is when I get caught out on the lake by a scatter showers. It's normally inside a covered area when not in use.

I can wait till the end before adding the drains. I only need a couple inches of clearance to get the flaring tool in and out.

Which brings up another question.

With the foam filling the space between the hull and floor there is no way for water to migrate to the rear of the boat. The foam is used to support the floor, no stringers. Would it be wise/better to seal the floor around the bilge pump keeping the water from the foam all together? I will be using 4# foam between the floor and hull. For this process I will have holes to pour the foam in and to follow the foam migration. Starting in the back with the bow elevated to ensure a good fill. There is < 2" space between the hull and floor back at the transom.

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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by Maxicraft » Fri Mar 01, 2019 6:37 pm

I put back the 2 side flotation foam pieces that I cut out, so the transom wood could be tabbed in. My over all thickness for the transom is almost identical to what was removed. Weather has been a yo-yo this last week and the temp is going to bottom out again Sunday night through Tuesday, so not much work being done. I did make the wedge base for the front pedestal seat. Have the CSM (1.5 oz) cut and ready to lay on the hull to help hold the resin I need to lay to fill all the voids. Going to order the foam needed to go between the floor and hull. My best calculations show I need 6 cuft, and another 1.25 cuft for the transom. Will probably order 8 cuft to make sure I have enough. Very difficult to get a accurate estimate on what is needed.

4506

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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by Maxicraft » Wed Mar 13, 2019 12:49 pm

Got the flooring cut and decided to add stringers along the sides to support it while I tab it in. Discovered trying to follow the contour of the boat and changing sides was a nightmare. The plywood have a little warp did not make it any easier. So my pieces have a little more gap than I liked, the reason I added stringers. Used a 3/4 lap joint on the plywood. Makes it easier to put the pieces in and align them up. The original plywood was joined using staples every 3-4".

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Since the foam supports the floor and it's design so no water should get between the hull and floor, thinking about sealing it off. If by some chance it does get wet like before it just traps the water. Found water standing when I tore it apart up in the bow area.

Question: Would you seal the area around the drain so the foam is isolated?

The bun at the transom is the only place for water to have direct access to the hull. I can make a plug to fill the hole when I pour the foam then glass it in with CSM. Or I can make a small piece and fasten to the flooring to seal it off, then I only will have to seal the bottom edge.

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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:25 pm

I will check these out tomorrow. Sorry. Had a hard day and could not work on my boat.

Our well had a failure and with the snow was quite and operation and then my boat barn was flooding from spring rains and snow.
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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:43 pm

So, in order to seal the floor; it needs a minimum of 12 oz biax glass over all seams and edges. This per avid designer and builder Richard Woods.

If I were building a 'dry' boat, I would probably limber it as a wet bilge and then if any ingress occurred, have a telltale drain or pie eye or inspection area.

I am guessing you are past that point.

In that case, I would skip the limbers in the bilge and still have a telltale garboard drain to verify the hull os indeed dry.

Inevitably, someone will hole the hull ans forget to add 5200 to the screw and you'll wind up with 3 cups of water or 30. The best way to remove it at that point is gravity and a dry warm home for the boat.
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Maxicraft
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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by Maxicraft » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:55 pm

No problem, I know what it's like to have well problem. My well turned acidic and I could not keep it in check for a week. Had to switch to county water supply a couple of years ago, $2800. I have a leak in my shop during heavy rain that drips on my boat. We are forecasted to have 5 days without rain. Had not had that in months it seams like.

Another Question.

Would you completely glass in the floor prior to foaming. Knowing you have to drill holes every 18" to pour foam in, and fill afterwards. Or would you just tab in the floor and complete it after the foam was in place? I have to leave a few areas open for foam to escape around the live well.

Going to seal the bottom of the floor with epoxy tomorrow. Then I will be ready to secure it in place.

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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:04 pm

Glass later if the floor is stiff enough to not be affexted by the foam.

Lotsa people foam prior to setting the sole. Then they cut the beehives off with a saw.
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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:08 pm

Cut your holes and then save the cutouts and tab thm back in with 2-3 cabosil plywood chunks under the sole. Then glue the holes back into the deck and onto the chunks. The chunks are positive stops to avoid laminate failure. If you step on the middle of a cutout or an edgef; it might start to delam. No way will thr happen with some tabs/shims/cleats/ chunks under. It costs you a day to add the chunks. No clamps; just thixo glue and a shim will force them up to the sole.

Gotta sleep
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Maxicraft
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Re: Replacing transom and floor on 1980 MaxiCraft

Post by Maxicraft » Thu Mar 14, 2019 10:49 pm

The foam is the support for the floor the way this boat was built. At a min I will have to tab the floor in place to keep the floor from lifting when the foam is poured. The center is the only section that has flow access to the hull if it was not foam filled. When I tore out the old floor and foam, water was trapped at the bow. The boat had been setting in my shop for 3+mo and still had water trapped. I got caught out in a storm 3 mo prior to that, so 6 mo and water still there. I can put a pvc drain rail down the center of the keel before I foam. But I expect it to pug/seal off when the foam is poured. On the sides (tri hull) the shape of the hull prevents water from getting to the back hull section.

From what I have read about the foam. I will need to protect everything that will not see foam. Had to sand off foam stuck to the hull. So if I don't glass the floor I will have to protect it with plastic when pouring the foam. They say foam will stick to everything except some plastics. Will be using 4# foam for added support. I have left gaps around the live well to make sure foam fills all the way to it. If I don't I will have a section with no support. Happens to be where the most rot was in the floor.

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