Aquasport Rebuild - Classic "Flatback"

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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bearhare
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Post by bearhare » Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:56 am

what year and size is this boat??
was it a salvage, or a backyard bargin??

great job and keep all the info coming.
we need more like this.


Bear

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tech_support
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Post by tech_support » Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:25 am

Its a 22.2 "flatback" Aquasport. Title says 1977, but I'm not 100% thats correct. 22' long and relatively narrow, only 72" from chine to chine at the transom. Boat came from E-bay.

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Post by tech_support » Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:50 pm

The hull is on a cradle. The purpose of the cradle is to make sure the hull is straight before glassing in the new stringers. The new stringers are made, they will go in the boat next week. Once they are in, you will see a pick up in the pace. (hopefully) :D

This is how we took it off the trailer...

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BTW, I found a flatback only a few miles from our office. It was a late 60' model and structurally was all original - got my cockpit depth measurement from him. Does 20" from sole to cap sound right to you all?

Joel

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Post by anonymous » Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:42 pm

Joel,

Would wood stringers of sufficient thickness encapsulated in epoxy have weighed less than the foam ones?

Laszlo

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jacquesmm
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Post by jacquesmm » Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:10 am

No, wood stringers would be heavier.
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tech_support
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Post by tech_support » Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:04 am

Maybe 20 pounds heavier, each. They are pretty light, even without vacuum bagging.

Joel

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Digger873
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Post by Digger873 » Mon Sep 18, 2006 9:17 pm

I couldnt help but notice in the pics of the bottom after you sanded/ground you did not grind out the grooves that were to small for the grinder.
Will the glass stick well enough when you fill them?
I also notice you did not remove the small stringer down the center.
I am asking because I have the same type of repair and have been trying to figure out how to sand down in the grooves.
I also have a small center stringer with no rot at all and am not sure I need to take it out. I dont want to have to grind any more than I allready have to :doh:
When I can resize my pics I will post them in the Arrowglass Cheeta thread
Jared

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Post by tech_support » Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:09 am

The little "grooves" formed by grinding are pretty small when using a 5" sanding disk - you try to blend them in. Your right if there is a hard edge, it will cause an air pocket.

2 things help in avoiding the air pockets. First is to grinding away "sharp" edges, so the glass can conform. The second is to use a Biaxial with mat like 1708 or 1208 for the first layer. Mat is like a sponge to some extent and it helps in getting a quality with an uneven surface.

If you work "wet on wet" thereafter, no need for mat.
Last edited by tech_support on Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Digger873
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Post by Digger873 » Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:35 pm

You said

[Those are strakes molded into the hull, the stringers were a couple inches inside thos strakes.

Im 90% sure we will fill them in and glass over before installing the stringers ]

Those are the grooves I was asking about.
If you cant sand down inside those strakes will the filler stick well enough?
Jared

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gk108
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Post by gk108 » Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:51 pm

Digger873 wrote:Those are the grooves I was asking about.
If you cant sand down inside those strakes will the filler stick well enough?
You could try a wire wheel or brush, vacuum the dust and wipe with acetone. That should knock off the top layer of bilge crud give you a good surface for the resin to bond to.
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