rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
lime4x4
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rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by lime4x4 » Sat Nov 28, 2009 6:18 pm

Pulled the engine this fall to paint the bilge and to replace a worn out outer transom plate. Upon pulling the plate found the transom was rotted and soft. Which lead to water logged stringers,bulkheads and foam. What is the best the best biaxle cloth to use to tie the trnasom and stringes back into the hull? I will be using epoxy . Also my stringers were made out of a solid peice of wood. 2.5 inches thick, 36 inches long and 7.5 inches wide (at it's widest part) I'm thinking of just epoxing and screwing 2 peices of 2x8's together. Marine epoxy what is the lowest temp u can work with? I know west is good till around 40 deg. I will be doing this project during the winter. I have a tarp over the boat and with a portable heater can problem get the air temp up to around 50 deg or so. I think that's about it for now.
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Bowmovement
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by Bowmovement » Sun Nov 29, 2009 12:17 am

I am sure Joel will have the answer for you. He will probably see this Monday.

Matt
"Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteers be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a total mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe."

mbasura
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by mbasura » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:22 am

For my 21 footer, Joel recommended 3 layers 12 oz biax tape for tabbing the sides and 3 layers of 1708 45/45 cloth capping the stringer. You boat is bigger, maybe Shine will recommend adding a layer.

Was the engine bolted to these stringers? If yes, you'll want hardwood to replace in kind, if not, build up a similar width by epoxy gluing marine ply to get the same thickness.

I'll let someone else answer the the temp question. Living in So Cal, we usually don't leave the house if it is below 50F, let alone go out and work on the boat.

MB

lime4x4
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by lime4x4 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:53 am

Yes the engine mounts to the stringers 4 lag bolts. I was thinking of using plywood but i don't think plywood would hold lag bolts very well. For me i can work in a t-shirt till around 40 deg. In the northeast are boating season is short so i didn't want to spend next spring and summer on this project. I'd rather do it over the winter when i'm not sweating my butt off.lol
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by TomW » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:49 am

Marinepoxy is good at 45 degrees then it shuts down until it gets above that temp again and then goes on curing. Just allow a little more time for it to cure at the lower temps.

Tom
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gk108
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by gk108 » Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:56 pm

Is there any way to change those lag bolts to through bolts with nuts? If you can do that, you'll be able to overdrill the holes and fill them with epoxy/wood flour putty and redrill to the finished size. :?:
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lime4x4
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by lime4x4 » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:17 pm

I was thinking of drilling the motor mount holes then installing ss bolts epoxied in the hole. I assume if using plywood for new stringers i should use 3/4 inch and have the plywood running vertical?
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Mad Dog
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by Mad Dog » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:23 pm

gk108 wrote:Is there any way to change those lag bolts to through bolts with nuts? If you can do that, you'll be able to overdrill the holes and fill them with epoxy/wood flour putty and redrill to the finished size. :?:
GK, I was wondering the samething but in the gallery I see the motor mounts sitting on top of the stringer and lag bolted down into the wood. First thought was to laminate in some T-nuts and bolt through but getting those holes lined up perfectly would be darn near impossible for me. :help: Lime may be a more high precission kind of guy. What do you think about going ahead with the over-drill/fill approach but then using S/S lag bolts? Maybe if we bat this around a little we can come up with the "ideal" solution in this type of application.

Just had a thought (I get dangerous when I think :doh: ), why not pick up some 3 or 4 inch heavy guage aluminum angle stock and make a couple of brackets? Bolt the motor mount to the aluminum, notch out the top of the stinger so the bracket is flush with the top of the stringer (and seal it, of course) then through-bolt the brackets to the stingers? :D

MD :wink:

lime4x4
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by lime4x4 » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:37 pm

Well if i wanted to the ideal thing to do is to reinstall the engine after the stringers are in then mark where the motor mounts go then remove the engine and drill out the holes. The alum sounds like an idea. Just have to watch my height. The string is around 7 inches high then there was 1/4 inch of glass over the stringers as well.
more pictures of the project boat here
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tech_support
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Re: rebuilding a 1986 268 searay weekender

Post by tech_support » Tue Dec 01, 2009 2:21 pm

Is the transom rebuilt? If not, that should be finished before you go after the stringers.

For the stringer; you can laminate two pieces of lumber, not problem, but you must use a clear straight piece of wood. I would use fir, actually, I would use multiple layers of 3/4" plywood :)

hardeners: 40-50 degrees means fast hardener and even that will be slow (which is good for big lamination jobs)

I need more information before I comment on a lamination schedule. Need to know:

thickness and spacing of all internal structures: stringers/frames/sole
thickness of old transom (skin and wood core)
is this an I/O drive?

Some pictures from a wider view would also be helpful.

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