Robalo R230 Project

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
DAYTRIP
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 695
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: North Palm Beach
Location: NORTH PALM BEACH

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by DAYTRIP » Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:06 am

Hey flipflop. I am saying the exact opposite. You may get to much buoyancy back there and sit to high. Two things are happening. Your center of gravity is moving back because of the engine going back. Your center of boyancy is also going back because you are adding wieght back there. If you actually extend the running surface your center of lift moves back and that is what could be most problematic. If the bracket bottom is above the hull bottom then that shouldn’t be an issue.

If you have that much positive boyancy added the Stern will definitely float higher I would think.



flipfloplife
New Poster
New Poster
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:47 pm
Location: Upper Keys

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by flipfloplife » Tue Apr 24, 2018 5:42 pm

DT --- ahhh ok, got it. that sounds reasonable. and perhaps i move up from the running surface a bit. neighbor really pushing me to just call stainless marine and solve the issue that way.

Progress

This picture likely says 1000 words. There's got to be a better way to bed a through hull to a ball valve!

Image

Image

first time i've ever done this. it was kind of tough to grind a moderately small hole into a darn huge dish!!

Image

taped some plastic over the bottom (it's over 1" thick here)

Image

Then filled a section of core with epoxy and taped plastic over the top.

Image

still tacky -- so i laid up the inside on that.

Image

Image

Image

and then here's what the outside looked like -- was pretty firm so i ground just a touch. then laid up on that as well. not sure if i was supposed to but i laid some peanut butter in there and it seemed to really help the wet out resin stick on an upside down situation there.

Image

Image

so patching that through hull for the toilet was 6 layers inside - about 3/8" epoxy "plug" (in place) and then on the outside ... ehhh ... stopped counting at like 14 layers? wasn't quite done in the pic - I ground it back at the point the last pic was taken - then I kept adding glass until it was filled and proud, i figure i can grind it back then fair it w/ epoxy paste. anyway - enough layers that i'm not worried about it!!

it seems like there was a lot more work that happened that somehow i don't have pics of. i did learn some things today. first - i made some epoxy-pucks -- i really hope i find a use for them. somehow i THINK i'm going to need more resin than i do ... or i'm just slow? i dunno. i'm laying everything out pretty neat and setup before i start. and it's REALLY not a big deal to mix more -- so. i think the answer there is to just calibrate my eyeball to a lower amount. Also -- i ended up using peanut butter for a fair amount of random stuff today. I'm trying to do the homework on it --- but do i sacrifice strength or bonding or anything when I put in the west system thickening agent/brown powder stuff?

Other lessons -- getting the "high speed strainer" out connected to seacock (actually i think technically it's not even a seacock, just a brass 3/4" ball valve) was a bit epic ------ if anyone has ideas on how to install one in a "better way" then i'm certainly all ears. honestly it performed well and i ordered pretty much the same setup. but it just seems bedding it in 5200 is just ... not cool. i think i'm going to overdrill the hole w/ a hole saw and fill w/ epoxy and then drill a new hole before installing. and unless someone talks me out of it i'm going to use 4200. there's screws (mechanical bond), there's the retaining but (on top, more mechanical) and there's 4200 (chemical bond) surely that's enough?

My neighbors are probably not happy about it -- but the blue tarp over the top plus a fan running through really is a lot cooler -- sorry neighbors! Pretty warm out there. That's all i got for now.

Fuzz
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 3899
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
Location: Kasilof, Alaska

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by Fuzz » Tue Apr 24, 2018 8:29 pm

Your patching of the hole looks like it will work just fine. Do not use a brass valve on any thru hulls. Brass has zinc in it and the zinc will dissolve over time when in saltwater. Spend the extra money and get silicon bronze valves made for the marine environment. I have found Jamestown Fasteners to be a good source for silicon bronze.

flipfloplife
New Poster
New Poster
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:47 pm
Location: Upper Keys

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by flipfloplife » Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:12 pm

Fuzz -- good catch. I meant bronze. had to double check my order for replacement parts to make sure i got it right -- bronze.

any complaints about the commercial transducer pads getting offered out there? was going to do one myself but they actually look pretty top notch...

Fuzz
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 3899
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
Location: Kasilof, Alaska

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by Fuzz » Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:05 pm

Sorry I am no help with the transducer pads.
As for your installing of through hulls with 4200 I see no problem. The retaining nut is doing the work, all you need is something to seal the hole and keep water out.

flipfloplife
New Poster
New Poster
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:47 pm
Location: Upper Keys

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by flipfloplife » Fri May 04, 2018 7:30 pm

Fuzz -- missed your comment, busy week, i used 5200 so ... well we'll let future me worry about that later.

Progress

Fresh water tank bracing at bottom of the compartment, and straps. Not sure if this is the right way to do it ... but it's done. I did put some thin neoprene under the tank to help.

Image

Image

and she's closed up. at some point I realized that just painting the deck is going to have to happen.

Image

so the deck really isn't as stained as it looks in these pics -- and yes that's a drill hole just port and aft of the closed hole -- even after cutting the deck out and reinforcing everything there was STILL a soft spot back there that i couldn't get the thickened resin to --- so i bit the bullet and drilled 2 holes (there's one on the other side as well) and put slightly thickened epoxy in a funnel and did a "direct fix" --- ugly, worked great, deck hard as a rock. it does need painted (adding another research topic...)

Image

I would tell you guys that this next thing isn't as bad as it looks ... but it just is. First -- bronze screws -- wimpy. I broke off two (talk about knowing yourself -- this is why i bought 4 extras!) and one of them was one of those awkward ones to get out etc. Second -- 5200 -- the things i love about it are also the things i hate about it. i got enough on there that's for sure. it's a little messy. maybe i'll try and clean it up later, maybe i'll let saltwater do it's thing. anyway, functional and solid, but (like me) not pretty.

Image

Here is the inside -- new bronze ball valve and bronze barb. Couldn't find one that had a screw for grounding - may have to use the hose clamp trick (not happy about it).

Image

The whole "small screw holes for a transducer" thing has always bugged me.

Image

So i mounted this thing called a Stern Pad (after filling everything back there and leveling).

Image

here it is with the monster totalscan ducer.

Image

building a battery box for the center console.

Image

Image

here is how the front looks now.

Image

stripping it all out.

Image

ok so there is no locker in my boat (classy huh?) - so right now the anchor line and chain just goes way way down and rattles around in the front 1/4 of the hull (no joke). fixing that. building a shelf in there first on which i'll put sides -- it'll make sense later.

Image

also -- got my stuff back from NWM (not sure forum rules on this, they do wiring panels semi-diy) and this is how it looks. yeah i use 3 x yamaha gauges - i use the fuel meter and would happily give up the speed-o-meter before i'd give that thing up. Anyway, if anyone has thoughts or comments -- impractical, looks dumb, etc ... (i'm not using an HDS-9 --- i'm using an elite ti-9 ----- need to check they're the same size but i'm 99% sure they are).

Image

flipfloplife
New Poster
New Poster
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:47 pm
Location: Upper Keys

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by flipfloplife » Sat May 05, 2018 12:39 am

So after an hour and a half of research i'm still not sure what i'm going to do with the deck. i have to do something 'cause i have sanded and faired repair with nothing on it right now. The boat is gelcoat with the non-skid being molded in, it's the little diamonds. Sounds like some folks say just Kiwi over it (after proper prep) -- other folks say gel-coat it -- and then there is the "sand it off and start over" crowd.

thoughts? that diamond molded in non-skid isn't something i'm in love with -- but it is tough to keep clean (this boat is pretty much always in the water and cleaning the boat comes after cleaning fish ... which means not overly frequently...)

Fuzz
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 3899
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
Location: Kasilof, Alaska

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by Fuzz » Tue May 08, 2018 11:04 pm

Be sure to post a picture of that switch panel when you get it. Looks like a neat way to get something nice.
I too am interested in seeing what you do with the deck. I am having trouble getting gray Kiwigrip so I am not sure what I will do.

User avatar
pee wee
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 1425
Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 8:29 am
Location: Georgia

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by pee wee » Wed May 09, 2018 9:07 am

Fuzz wrote:
Tue May 08, 2018 11:04 pm
Be sure to post a picture of that switch panel when you get it. Looks like a neat way to get something nice.
I too am interested in seeing what you do with the deck. I am having trouble getting gray Kiwigrip so I am not sure what I will do.
Can't you take white Kiwi Grip and get it tinted? Seems like someone mentioned going to Lowe's and doing that.
Hank

Jeff
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 3627
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:17 pm
Location: Vero Beach

Re: Robalo R230 Project

Post by Jeff » Wed May 09, 2018 9:15 am

Guys, we sell grey KiwiGrip but as Hank said, if you want a custom Grey color, Lowe's or Home Depot can customize the color for you. Jeff

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest