Cracker Larry's OD 18

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chicagoross
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Post by chicagoross » Sun May 11, 2008 5:52 pm

Fairing the frames, cut oversize to fit and then trim down...sounds like conventional ply on frame! I find that type of build actually goes faster for a large boat, but as you pointed out, it does require a bit more time sitting in the thinking chair. Beautiful job as always, Larry!



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cape man
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Post by cape man » Sun May 11, 2008 8:06 pm

Larry, sure hope you don't get mad when you see all these unique additions on my boat! Great job, and thanks again for the help with my questions earlier today.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

DrBones
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Post by DrBones » Sun May 11, 2008 8:52 pm

Larry...just as a tip from someone who put gunwhales on and has used the boat quite a bit now:

Make sure that where the individual gunwhale sections meet, you splice them together, like you did with the hull panels using biaxial tape. You can do this after they are installed, rather than installing one long section.

What happened to mine, as I didn't do this when I put them on my OD16, is that the flexing of the hull when it pounds on the seas, causes cracks to appear where the different sections meet. Not a major problem..just a blemish that could've been avoided!

...it's one of those repairs that I still need to get to (one in several..hehehe) ...but it hasn't stopped me from fishing yet..hehehe!

All the best! Love your boat...looking really great.

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry » Sun May 11, 2008 9:03 pm

Tom, I'm thinking the rectangle may look better also :doh:

Maybe you need to steam-bend something for the transition at the rear.
No GK, I'm not that good of a builder, or just not that industrious. I've got the transitions worked out now, I'll show you tomorrow what we decided.
What size batten/cleat are you using??
1" X 1" yellow pine. I ripped them on the table saw from a larger board. Yeah, this boat is going to be tough for certain. You can't buy a boat like this at Bass Pro :lol:
Just when I think I got it figured out you show me a better way.
Daddy
:lol: You just don't know how much beer and pondering it took to figure this stuff out. And how much wood I've wasted. I told you I made 30 frames to get 10. My only real attribute is that I'm real stubborn.
Cl what did you use to cut the notches ?
Just a small hand saw. A backsaw actually.
I can see that i am going to have to buy a
router and try to learn to use it.
You don't have to have a router, but for some applictions it is the fastest and most accurate. I'm not a wizard with them, but the basics we can handle.
A flush cutting bit can save a lot of time. You now have your inner and outter edge, rout away.
Exactly. That will probably save more time than it took to recess the cleats.

Thank you CR :D
Larry, sure hope you don't get mad when you see all these unique additions on my boat!


Craig, no need to re-invent the wheel. My pleasure 8)
Last edited by Cracker Larry on Sun May 11, 2008 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry » Sun May 11, 2008 9:07 pm

Make sure that where the individual gunwhale sections meet, you splice them together, like you did with the hull panels using biaxial tape. You can do this after they are installed, rather than installing one long section.
Thanks Dr. Bones. I was planning on butt blocks underneath for splicing, where they will be hidden by the coaming. Do you think that would be best?
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

Dougster
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Post by Dougster » Sun May 11, 2008 9:36 pm

My only real attribute is that I'm real stubborn.
As I go grey, I find that the only real attribute. This new little section is such a gem. Big thanks on this, it's gonna help me big time on my gunnel time. BTW, you gotta a killer CD here and maybe, with a little push, a neat little builder's book goin' on.

Says good on you Dougster

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davidtx
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Post by davidtx » Sun May 11, 2008 10:11 pm

Your gunwale installation is similar to mine.
- You used larger cleats at the frames so that after you cut the notch you still have some cleat supporting the rail. I just have the frame supporting the rail.

You notched the fore frame and motor well to support the rail. I just used some large radius fillets there. I may run some stainless steel deck screws through the rail and into the end of my cleats. I really don't want that joint giving way with me standing on top.

I like your system much better :oops:

-david
See my blog: http://buildingtx18.blogspot.com/view or drop "view" from the end for the old interface

DrBones
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Post by DrBones » Sun May 11, 2008 10:38 pm

Butt blocks probably will work fine!

...I was just suggesting based on how I'm going to have to fix mine (to late for butt blocks :P )...which are by FAR not as nice as your gunwhales! - You'll be able to lift your boat with a crane from those!

TomW
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Post by TomW » Mon May 12, 2008 12:29 am

Larry I'd go with a thicker butt block 3/4"(?) instead of fiberglass in this instance. At least 8-12" on each side of splice since you may be walking on the gunwale. I like my splices beefy. :wink:

Tom
Good fishing and red skys at night sailors delight
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy

Oceola
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Post by Oceola » Mon May 12, 2008 7:14 am

And, if you have, say, two butt block splices and they fall halfway between the frames you could then fit in a short half frame under each one...just an idea if you plan on walking on the gunwals or stepping on them when getting in or out of the boat.
Looking good.

Frank

P.S. Did Jacques ever post up his impressions of the CR builders meet, or did I miss it ?
Craftsmanship means no wrinkles in your duct tape.

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