Hagar's OD18

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hagar
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Hagar's OD18

Post by hagar » Sat Feb 06, 2010 2:37 pm

Well, took a couple of years off from doing this build, getting back to it. The advantage of that is that I have been able to look at Cracker Larry's and Larry B's progress, I am so grateful that you guys take the time to post pics and comments. I won't be able to keep up with those excellent examples, but will try to post any helpful comments if I have any that you guys have not already posted, although those will probably be few and far between.

I have gotten to the point of putting the hull together, puttying the inside fillets, flipping the boat and have so far taped the transom and bow. I have faired out the two side panel seams that need taping and have coated with epoxy, now waiting for that to get dry enough to tape. I have attempted to read as many posts and how-to files as possible so that I don't ask too many newby questions but, inevitably, I still need help. My thanks in advance to any who do so. Here is the first salvo of questions.

1) Restudying the plans, they call for a 2x6 for the stringers. I chose to laminate mine out of 1/2 inch ply of three layers, leaving them 1 inch higher than plans for the drainage issue. I did not see where the stringers were to be tabbed onto the keel panels, but CL did his so should I do mine? Also, I see CL used a thicker lamination, I only did mine to the 1-1/2 inch to match the dimensional lumber thickness. If I do need to tab them in, what cloth, the biax or will the tape work? Totally encaplulated or just tabbed in at the bottom corners?

2) I seem to be using a buttload of epoxy which, according to this website is to be expected from a newby. I am definitely guilty of making large fillets on the inide seems which is where some is wasted, but, I seem to use a ton when wetting out the biax tape. My past experience with poly resins is to wet out the area that the tape is going to be applied (not talking about the initial layer of epoxy used to soak the wood, already have that done and dried and sanded or still slightly tacky when working wet on wet), then laying the tape on the wet surface, then wetting out further with a foam roller. Is that proper, or should I be laying tape on the dry seam and wetting out from the top?

3) I see that acetone is the preffered chemical for wiping down surfaces before putting epoxy on. I am using MEK, will that cause any issues?

I posted some picks in my gallery and will try to keep doing so. Hagar's OD18. Maybe as time goes on I will get smart enough to include that url in the post...

Thanks for any input,
Hagar


Turning epoxy into dust, eventually leaving a boat behind....

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by Cracker Larry » Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:15 pm

Welcome back! Here's a link to your gallery..

http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1138
I did not see where the stringers were to be tabbed onto the keel panels, but CL did his so should I do mine? Also, I see CL used a thicker lamination,
The plans don't say that, but Jacques told me I should tape them down. I asked him.
Also, I see CL used a thicker lamination, I only did mine to the 1-1/2 inch to match the dimensional lumber thickness.
No, I used 2 layers of 3/4 ply, same net of 1 1/2".
If I do need to tab them in, what cloth, the biax or will the tape work? Totally encaplulated or just tabbed in at the bottom corners?
You do. 6", 12 ounce biax tape, both sides. Totally encapsulated with epoxy, but not with tape.

I prefer denatured alcohol to MEK or acetone, it's not quite as bad for you.
I seem to be using a buttload of epoxy
Yep, so do most of us :lol: Your layup method sounds fine. 12 oz biax should take about an ounce a foot for a 50/50 ratio so that's how I judge how much to mix and spread.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Larry B
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by Larry B » Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:49 pm

Hager,
What Cracker Larry said :D I copied most of his build so far. And yes the denatured alcohol is what I use also.
Dang, didn't know someone was watching me build :oops: I better start doing a better job :D
As far as epoxy is concerned, I don't even measure like CL does, (although that would be the proper way) I just keep mixing until I'm satisfied :D It take's what it takes :D
Are you doing a graphite bottom? I wish I could tell you how a splash rail works but it will be many months for that answer :doh:
Don't forget to look at Cape Mans too. I've got some very good ideas from him also. In fact my boat is just a replica of CL's and Cape Mans :D with a few minor mods.
Larry B
Completed: FL14, OD18

hagar
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by hagar » Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:32 pm

Thanks a ton guys, that should get me through the night anyway!!
Turning epoxy into dust, eventually leaving a boat behind....

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by Cracker Larry » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:30 pm

Let me clarify something, you asked if the stringers get tabbed and I said yes, which isn't quite right. Tabbed indicates spaced pieces of cloth. The stringers get taped end to end, full length, continuous on both sides, not tabbed. They are glued, filleted and taped to the bottom.

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Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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rjezuit
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by rjezuit » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:36 pm

There are probably few and far between of us that would use the amount of epoxy as specified on the plans. In my estimation, it is WAY under estimated. Maybe a professional could do it as the plans state, but not an amateur, and definitely not a first time amateur. Rick

hagar
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by hagar » Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:15 am

CL,
I used the wrong terminology there. I'm good with the full length issue, what I was trying to ask was if cloth had to be added to the top of the stringer to overlap to the tape on the sides which would "totally encapsulate" the stringer. I see that I don't as yours is just in the transition corners from bottom to stringer, thanks for the pic. I did the bottom panel to chine panel seams since my last post, you were spot on with the 1oz./ft. of tape. That translates to 2oz./square foot which will help me when I get to the large areas too. That's it for me tonight, will continue with the side panel to chine panel seams in the morning. I will then have to wait for an epoxy delivery!

Larry B.,
The graphite bottom is on the build agenda but it will be a budget thing and I don't want it to slow the build. I'll see when the time comes. As far as a spray rail, definitely, I hate getting wet on a boat ride and have been known to be the only trailer at the boat ramp when the weather is bad. I'll get wet if I have to and many times it won't matter if there were a foot wide spray rail, but the drier the ride, the less sailor language.

One idea I did have while gluing up the rubrails was fishing line. Due to the bends required, I couldn't get the rails to stay where I wanted while clamping so I stuck a piece of 60lb. test in the glue joint everywhere I had a clamp. I figure that it would keep a small gap in the glue joint and still allow me to clamp them down tight enough to keep them from moving. I just left them in the joint thinking that they are plyable enough to not cause any stresses in the joint. Hope I'm right as I plan on using that technique when I get around to gluing the sole onto the stringers, just lay down a piece of mono on top of the stringer so I don't have to worry about having hard spots. See any issue with that?

Thanks Again,
Hagar
Turning epoxy into dust, eventually leaving a boat behind....

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by Cracker Larry » Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:02 am

CL,
I used the wrong terminology there. I'm good with the full length issue,
8) I just wanted to make sure I was clear.
The graphite bottom is on the build agenda but it will be a budget thing and I don't want it to slow the build
Graphite is by far the least expensive coating you can put on the bottom :wink: It's only about $7 for enough to cover 2 OD18s :D
There are probably few and far between of us that would use the amount of epoxy as specified on the plans. In my estimation, it is WAY under estimated. Maybe a professional could do it as the plans state, but not an amateur, and definitely not a first time amateur.
Yep, I've built 4 boats with this method and still haven't come close to the specified amount :doh: It takes what it takes :lol: My OD18 took 21 gallons, if this gives you an idea 8O
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by Larry B » Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:26 am

Cracker Larry wrote: My OD18 took 21 gallons, if this gives you an idea 8O
I'm already into my OD18 15.5 Gallons, And I'm thinking I don't know if I'll be able to finish it with another 5.5 gallons :doh: I've still got my console, sole, frames, gunwales, etc. I'll probably be over 21 gallons :help: :help: :help: But I'm not going to stop building her because of a few gallons of Epoxy :D :D
Completed: FL14, OD18

hagar
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Re: Hagar's OD18

Post by hagar » Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:50 pm

Ok, all outside seams are taped now. I think I will be able to ram a submarine with the bow and not hurt a thing, lots of tape coming together there! Graphite bottom option firmly in place, thanks Cracker.

When I mixed the last batch of epoxy on the last seam, I was left with less than an ounce of hardener, talk about cuttin' it close!

Cracker, I have a four legged buddy too. Posted his pic for Sam, maybe they are kinfolk. He's a realatively new addition, one year old last month. If he stops digging up the wife's flowers, we may not have to move out this sping! His name is Rogue.

Thanks again guys,
Hagar
Turning epoxy into dust, eventually leaving a boat behind....

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