Woods Skoota 32DM

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Tungsten
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by Tungsten » Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:28 am

When i bagged both sides at once the peelply and glass overlapped on each side to help with air removal.It was only when i infused i left the mold side bare to get the flat finished surface.

The M80 foam is kind of soft,with 22oz fabric compressed down the skin is quite thin,having excess resin on the outside will help when you bump into things,less chance of denting.

Infusing 48oz of glass yielded approx 2mm after cure.i assume your around 1mm?



fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:55 am

How do you measure the 2mm? I'd need to make samples. I doubt the rebate edges would be accurate indicators of depth. However, on a guess it looks at least 1mm based on the holes. The guy at the other supply shop told me to first try a final rollover with laminating rollers in a couple directions.

I avoided peelply on the bottom due to saturation/release concerns. However, I do know a ply that releases easier than what I have that might be test worthy, so I might try it. I'd have to put the peelply above the rebates. Thanks.

We'll use fairing compound or epoxy to fill the holes up. Since it is table side and kind of rough with the holes, I don't think I'll sand until it is coated once. I had one bubble under the laminate due to bridging of my tape repair, but unrelated to this issue.

Jeepers, I hate fiberglass in my hands. Apparently, too stupid to wear gloves only happens a couple times. When grinding, I never noticed, but an hour later, it was brutal. Still feeling it now.
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:59 am

I totally get why people like infusion. I'd like to try it on my small bulkhead.
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Aug 23, 2017 11:50 pm

So, I'd really like some advice.

I need to hand laminate the for'd vee. (the mold is the white portion and I cracked it on the bottom and will repair)

You can't see it, but there is a 1" cutdown to the edge on the laminated panel (panel on the left is not ready yet, and neither are attached).

How will I keep the fiberglass from falling down? Raptor staples into the corecell?

How am I going to keep the new stuff from bonding to the mold? I planned to wax it with partall #2 and spray it with partall #10, but I am worried about epoxy getting to the top edges of the mold. Maybe I need to tape some release film on the sides?

Is the radius in the bottom enough? It is like 5/8" radius.

Opinions welcome.
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Tungsten
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by Tungsten » Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:42 am

Well I.m not sure what your asking but to glass that V on the inside you would add a fillet of your choice of mixed fillers.To glass over i would wet the glass/tape on a table, roll out bubbles etc. then fold or roll up and apply over the fillet.

Others on here will have more experience on this then i.

TomW1
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by TomW1 » Thu Aug 24, 2017 4:22 pm

I don't know about your other questions, but the 5/8" radius is fine. That is more that 1/2" which is very good and will keep the fiberglass from forming bubbles, or in other words allow a smooth transition.

Tom
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 » Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:57 pm

I bit the bullet and bought a raptor stapler-pricey. I bought 1/4" staples that I can leave in the boat. I think I'll dry fit and put smaller pieces in and work my way back. While the designer specifies 3 plies of 22 ounce fabric, I don't think I need the plies to be continuous. If I could work in 3 sections, I could do the work from inside the vee and just do healthy overlaps. I'd like to run a continuous piece, but not sure how I can reach them after I get one in.
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 » Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:40 pm

Well, we laminated the second bottom panel today. We followed Gurit's advise on the core wetout at 0.71 kg/m^2. Then we also wetout the table and followed another guy's advice and used laminating rollers to push air out of the laminate on the bottom glass before we set the core over it. We also added 24 ounces of mixed epoxy to the bottom laminate and reduced the top by the same amount. We had a little more bleed through as I upped the pressure a tad from 22 to 25 psi and we also finished quicker, so we had more open time (probably would have been best to stay around 20). We also put down vac bag before cutting the glass to avoid glass runs. We had one nothing run off an end cut. If we didn't use breather film; these panels would fail.
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 12:13 am

A 32' 5" panel under vacuum
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Jeff
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by Jeff » Sat Aug 26, 2017 8:16 am

Fallguy1000, now that is one long panel!!! How many people are you having help you with the vacuum bagging? Have a good weekend, Jeff

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