The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

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silentneko
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by silentneko » Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:42 pm

Not to much to report just yet. I cut out the first layer of the transom, but came into some question regarding the size of the clamping board. After some chatting back and forth I determined the best course of action is to go back to my original plan of extending one of the layers to full length, and then making sure the clamping board extends down a few more inches. This should give me more then a big enough clamping board to do what I need and increase the strength of the transom quite a bit.

1966

As far as the stringers are concerned, I'm going to keep them the same for now. I figure moving them up 3/8" will not effect the height much. If it changes the height by 1/64" I would be surprised. I have some days off coming up, it's time to get moving on this.


Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe.....FS17 coming soon!

Fuzz
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by Fuzz » Sun Dec 03, 2017 6:09 pm

Good move with the stringers. If you really want to raise the deck you can do the dado a 2x thing when you get ready to install cleats. See AA's build where he installs his cleats.

silentneko
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by silentneko » Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:31 pm

I'm still planning on stretching them an inch, but I'll build the final stringers after I get the hull flipped and make sure they fit right. For now they are close enough.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe.....FS17 coming soon!

silentneko
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by silentneko » Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:46 pm

Not to much progress as I slowed down a bit to finish the transom. Unfortunately I'm working in tighter quarters because my garage is loaded down so I have to hurry up and wait for the resin.

Yesterday I cut out the second layer of the transom and the 2 layers for the clamping board using a router so they match closely. Today I am working on laminating everything. I always start with a thin coat of neat epoxy that I let set for at least 20 minutes. I see a lot of guys skip this step and have issues later because the wood soaks up so much and can rob epoxy from glass and other things.
1978

I loaded on the thickened epoxy, spread with a notched trowel and weighed down the clamping boards. I used a mix of wood flour, milled fibers, and silica for the mix. I'll need to do 3 separate bondings to make sure it comes out well. Transom panel to transom panel, clamping board to clamping board, then clamping board to transom. The first two are setting up now.
1980

I've never used MarineEpoxy before but seems to work well. My only complaint, and it's minor, is the color of the resin, or lack there of. Both the hardener and base are nearly clear, so when rushing you still really need to pay attention. I'm used to the hardener being honey colored, so I might need to switch back for any bright work I do to get the look I want.

Here's a tip I learned. Always keep your roller or brush until everything is cured. It's a great indicator that everything is going right and lets you quickly see what stage everything is in without putting finger marks in your glass. I just keep mine in the glove I take off, when it's rock solid it goes in the trash.
1979
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe.....FS17 coming soon!

Jeff
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by Jeff » Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:56 pm

Off to a strong start!!!! Happy holidays, Jeff

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jacquesmm
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:35 pm

Corrected: I was wrong when I wrote the comments below. I must have been thinking of another one of my designs.
Silentko is on the right track.
If the pictures show the whole transom, all is fine.
If it is the clamping board, at the top, the clamping board is supposed to be straight across, not follow the shape of the upper part of the transom.
What you did does not hurt but now I understand more about our previous discussion.
I will draw a picture of the clamping board and transom in perspective, that should make it clear.
I need about one hour that.
In the mean time, no worries, you can build the transom the way you did it.
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:52 pm

Corrected, see my other posts. The FS17 is designed with a clamp that goes all the way up to the top of the transom.
Here is a drawing of the transom and clamping board (no perspective):

Image

Number 1 is the transom outline, the outside layer, only one layer.

#2 is the designed clamping board, the one shown on the nesting. It has two horizontal straight edges spaced (in this case) 12". You had enough ply for 3 layers like that.

#3 is the the clamping board we discussed, the one that goes all the way to the bottom.

The upper edge of 2 and 3 is the edge of the motorwell, it does not go all the way to the top of the transom.
Now, some builders cut it as #2 and # 3 and go all the way to the top. I don't find it necessary, it's heavy and may cost more in plywood but tecnically, there is nothing wrong with it.
You can proceed with what you have.
From the pictures, it looks like you have at least 12" below the upper edge of the motorwell.

Maybe I misunderstood your description: is it possible that you decided to have 2 transom layers and 2 clamping board layers for a total of 4? The design calls for 1 plus 3, total 4 but it perfectly valid to do 2+2.
In that case, you will have to cut a 3/8" slice off the motorwell sides but that is easy.
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:59 pm

About MarinEpoxy, many builders prefer a resin as clear as possible. When you mix, at first the mix will become opaque, after 60 seconds of mixing, it will become clear. Scrape the sides and bottom and be certain to mix enough. No opaque patches should be left in the mix.
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peter-curacao
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by peter-curacao » Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:10 pm

jacquesmm wrote:
Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:59 pm
About MarinEpoxy, many builders prefer a resin as clear as possible. When you mix, at first the mix will become opaque, after 60 seconds of mixing, it will become clear. Scrape the sides and bottom and be certain to mix enough. No opaque patches should be left in the mix.
I like it as clear as possible also, but maybe for silentneko a drop of brown pigment in the container of hardener is an idea? Or can you only mix pigment after you mix hardener and resin?

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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:47 pm

You can do that, good suggestion, thank you Peter.
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