GT27 Build (Wes K)

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fallguy1000
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by fallguy1000 » Sun May 24, 2020 10:09 am

Netpackrat wrote:
Sun May 24, 2020 6:10 am
Another thing to keep in mind is when a truck was built may matter more than whether it is a half ton, 3/4, etc. I own 2 pickup trucks currently... My daily driver is a 2017 Ram 1/2 ton crew cab, and the other is a 1973 Chevy heavy duty 3/4 ton which my dad bought new and which has been maintained in decent condition. There's no comparison between the two; the new 1/2 ton is by far the better tow vehicle even though the other is a heavy 3/4 ton with larger brakes and heavier duty suspension. If the Ram could be made 2wd and had engine power limited to match the Chevy and the Chevy could be magically be transformed back into new condition, it would be closer but the newer truck would still be better regardless of nominal ratings.

My guess is that difference would be true up until maybe the early to mid 90s. The main reason I bring any of this up is there is often a temptation to buy an older heavy duty truck for towing purposes, when you may really be better off with something nominally lighter duty but of more recent manufacture.
Is it the diff that makes the diff?

Not to change the subject, but has anyone seen the price of a new truck?

I am driving a 2004 Chev 2500hd bought new with 245,000 miles on. Paid 28,xxx now same truck is 64,xxx. This and they are built with cheaper labor.


My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

piperdown
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by piperdown » Sun May 24, 2020 11:19 am

fallguy1000 wrote:
Sun May 24, 2020 10:09 am
Netpackrat wrote:
Sun May 24, 2020 6:10 am
Another thing to keep in mind is when a truck was built may matter more than whether it is a half ton, 3/4, etc. I own 2 pickup trucks currently... My daily driver is a 2017 Ram 1/2 ton crew cab, and the other is a 1973 Chevy heavy duty 3/4 ton which my dad bought new and which has been maintained in decent condition. There's no comparison between the two; the new 1/2 ton is by far the better tow vehicle even though the other is a heavy 3/4 ton with larger brakes and heavier duty suspension. If the Ram could be made 2wd and had engine power limited to match the Chevy and the Chevy could be magically be transformed back into new condition, it would be closer but the newer truck would still be better regardless of nominal ratings.

My guess is that difference would be true up until maybe the early to mid 90s. The main reason I bring any of this up is there is often a temptation to buy an older heavy duty truck for towing purposes, when you may really be better off with something nominally lighter duty but of more recent manufacture.
Is it the diff that makes the diff?

Not to change the subject, but has anyone seen the price of a new truck?

I am driving a 2004 Chev 2500hd bought new with 245,000 miles on. Paid 28,xxx now same truck is 64,xxx. This and they are built with cheaper labor.
Not necessarily just the diff. That 73 probably has a 3 speed, maybe an overdrive. Engine power not even close to '17 if the '73 is stock. My '10 Avalanche has a 6 speed trans, 3.42 gears and the tow package from the factory. Has "Tow" button that changes the shift points in the trans. Heavy duty radiator, trans cooler, ect. Max rating is around 7400 lbs
Eric (aka, piperdown)

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Netpackrat
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by Netpackrat » Sun May 24, 2020 3:43 pm

The '73 diff is a GM 10.5" rear axle with full floating shafts; it is one of the heaviest duty axle assemblies there is, and really one of the older truck's bright spots compared to the new. It does have a 3 speed auto, which doesn't help anything. Engine is bone stock so yes less power but not choked down by emissions controls like later trucks of the in between years were (I would take the '73 over a mid 80s truck on basically the same chassis for this reason). Even giving them equal power the newer rig is better due to the transmission (Ram has an 8 speed) and computer control improvements that Piper mentioned, and 4+ decades of improvements in suspension design. Keep in mind that the automakers didn't change their truck designs significantly from the 70s through to the late 80s or early 90s. Not to mention ABS and traction/skid control, so while the newer brakes probably aren't as big, they are far more effective.

wkisting
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by wkisting » Sun May 24, 2020 5:50 pm

Yes, I'll probably stick to something 2010 or newer. Just a few years old or so, and you can save a bundle off the sticker price of new. I've noticed a lot of people seem to buy these heavy duty trucks (maybe the cool factor), never tow anything with them, and in some cases not even put a lot of miles on them, and then sell them at a song compared to what they cost new. In some cases, they still have a substantial warranty on them yet. Hoping I luck out. I've seen some great deals over the years, but it was never time to buy. But next Winter/Spring, I'll be looking...
Wes
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My build thread is here --> viewtopic.php?f=12&t=63644

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OrangeQuest
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by OrangeQuest » Sun May 24, 2020 9:28 pm

A lot of the differences on the 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks is payload capacity, but it does relate to towing capacity if you consider tongue weight.

The weight of the load, verses the capacity of the tow vehicle. If the manufacturer made it a tow vehicle then it should have all the right stuff to do the job. Note: you can have two vehicles of the same manufacturer, same trim package and same everything but one of them is a factory tow vehicle, it will out tow the other one all day long. One was made to look the part, the other was made to do the part.

wkisting, you have been making very good choices on your build, I don't see you changing that when it comes to your tow vehicle.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
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wkisting
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by wkisting » Mon May 25, 2020 3:54 pm

Almost ready to glue the side decks on. Got everything ready to go, but the rain came in so I had to stop for the day. I can't wait to have these in place and get the sides fiberglassed, as then I won't have to worry as much when a storm rolls through and threatens to shred the plastic cover over the boat. The boat will finally be sealed up enough that no water would get into the cabin area, which is most of the boat. That will be a relief!
Wes
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My build thread is here --> viewtopic.php?f=12&t=63644

wkisting
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by wkisting » Mon May 25, 2020 4:40 pm

Hey guys, help educate me on scuppers. For the aft cockpit, I can go fairly large through the transom.

Thinking maybe something like a pair of these: https://www.seaworthyinnovations.com/sh ... ectangular These would allow for two ~2" x 5" slots, which should be way more than enough drainage. I like that they don't use fasteners, and they have a version for angled transoms. The stainless flapper seems a definite plus, but maybe it would rattle and/or not seal as well as rubber?

There's also these: https://www.replacementboatparts.com/re ... upper.aspx Wondering how well the rubber flaps hold up, though, as I see a lot of people seem to have trouble with that part of their scuppers.

There's also a polymer version. Not as attractive, but maybe more fool proof since there's no rubber flap to wear out? Like these: http://www.downwindmarine.com/Transom-S ... 02735.html

Then there are telescoping style, like these: https://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_de ... &pid=09_06 These line the hole, which I suppose might protect the core of the transom wood better if installed with enough sealant. Again, no rubber flap to wear out.

Another way to go, and a little easier to install, are round scuppers. Round would be much easier to plug if for some reason we needed to do so. I could go with four 1.5" to 2" diameter scuppers. But again, most have rubber flaps and I find an awful lot of comments online about the rubber going bad.

My scuppers should be safely above the waterline at rest, so maybe I'm worrying about how well they seal or how easy they are to plug for no good reason... Would love suggestions/input from someone that has scupper experience.

[Edited to fix a misplaced link above.]
Last edited by wkisting on Tue May 26, 2020 10:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wes
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My build thread is here --> viewtopic.php?f=12&t=63644

Fuzz
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by Fuzz » Tue May 26, 2020 12:31 am

I have never used the flapper style. I will be interested to see what those who have say.

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BrianC
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by BrianC » Tue May 26, 2020 9:09 am

Fuzz wrote:
Tue May 26, 2020 12:31 am
I have never used the flapper style. I will be interested to see what those who have say.
PangaRon (and others) added springs to the flapper-style covers: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=62431&hilit=Scuppe ... g&start=20

Others (can’t recall who) added wedges so that the flaps hung vertical on the transom.
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Tom S.
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Re: GT27 Build (Wes K)

Post by Tom S. » Tue May 26, 2020 9:40 am

Has anyone used these from Gemlux ? They are a simple no maintenance type of check valve that you insert in between your ball valve and thru hull fitting.
2598591D-DF21-41A0-8966-A6D8F33870BA.png

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