Finally getting started on my GF-16

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timoub007
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Post by timoub007 » Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:16 pm

My pile of wood is starting to look like a boat!

Image

I finally got my changes figured out. After measuring a lot more than twice, I cut my extra seat frames. I took the cockpit layout of the D-15 and put that in my GF-16.

Image

I think it looks great! I'll be able to move around a bit more fore-to-aft to adjust the boat's center of gravity depending on the load.

Here is a view without the seat tops.

Image

Making these frames without plans took some thought. I did not want to ruin any more plywood than I had too. It turns out that I was pretty close on my first try and was able to trim that one to fit. I purchased one extra sheet of 1/2" Meranti to use for my extras.

I hope to get the cleats mounted all around the boat early this week and then start on my rub rail. I'm hoping to get it flipped in the first week of August to attach the bottom panel.

Tim
Last edited by timoub007 on Sat Sep 03, 2005 11:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry » Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:39 pm

Tim, that looks great! I sorta wish I had thought about that layout when I built mine. Excellent thought for weight distribution, plenty of storage. Good idea I think :)

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Post by Cracker Larry » Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:45 pm

Forgot to add, that layout would solve some peoples problem of using a short shaft engine. No need to cut the rear seat when cutting down the transom to 15".

timoub007
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Post by timoub007 » Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:56 pm

Thanks Larry. I've been looking at your gallery just about every day, hoping that my boat will get done quicker that way.

I like your idea of the dowels between the seat frame ears, and will probably incorporate that myself. There will be times when I'll have to pull my boat over rollers and those would help tremendously. I'm going to try to figure out some bow and transom handles too. Any ideas there?

Also, could you give me some dimensions on the hatch you cut in your middle seat top? I think that will be the best access to this storage. I plan on putting my battery as well as life jackets in there. I feel this could never be dry storage, so I'll probably cut some drain holes in the bottom of the frames as well.

I've got a few other changes planned that you might enjoy as well. All to make this bateau a little more marsh friendly and hopefully ducky.

Tim
Last edited by timoub007 on Sat Sep 03, 2005 11:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry » Tue Jul 26, 2005 6:29 pm

Tim, I was lucky and got most of the drudge work finished before the hot weather moved in. It would be slower now for certain! My best advice is to try and get one thing done every day, even if it's just a little something, and it will add up to having a boat. Stick with it, it's just like eating an elephant. One bite at a time :)

Notice my handles also extend from the rear seat frame to the transom, to act as transom handles. They are recessed 1" into the transom and epoxied in place. They are solid, do not roll. The boat balances perfect at the center seat and can be carried by 2 people, one on each side. On the bow I first glued on a backing plate then bolted on a large 8" open base stainless cleat. The cleat is large enough to serve as a handle.

The center hatch is 19" X 16". I cut limber holes in the frame (all the frames) before glueing and glassing them in place. Used a 2 1/2" hole saw centered on the bottom edges. Water has to drain to the rear so you can pull the plug and drain it out.

Keep me posted and let me know if I can help.

timoub007
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Post by timoub007 » Tue Jul 26, 2005 9:09 pm

Thanks for the tips Larry.

I did notice the dowel handles over the rear seat, but with my cockpit design I don't have the rear seat frame ears to work with. I'll have to look for the SS cleat you described. If I can find them, I'll put one through the bow transom and two on the rear corners. Post up a picture to your gallery if you don't mind. I only saw the bow eye in what is there now.

I appreciate the dimensions of your hatch. I realized after I glued in my frames that I screwed up on the limber holes. I guess I'll have to cut them when I've got the boat flipped over, prior to installing the bottom panel. Did you just put one in the center of each frame or two, one towards each side? I know I'll need two for my center seat, but might get away with one on the bow frame.

Thanks for all the tips.

Tim

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Post by Cracker Larry » Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:12 pm

Tim, I'll post a couple more pictures this weekend.

I cut 2 limber holes in each frame, one about 3" from each side. My reasoning being a flat bottom boat is never floating flat, but leaning one way or the other. But, then I decided to foam under the seats and didn't want the foam in the center of the compartment because it would interfere with useable storage and require 2 hatches per seat. I put the foam under the port side of the center seat and under the starboard side of the rear seat, and since I didn't want water in my foam, I plugged and glassed the holes where the foam was going to be. So it ended up with 2 limber holes in the forward frame, one hole on both of the center seat frames starboard side, and one hole on the rear frame, port side.

The limber holes are twice the diameter of the transom drain and they move water just fine. Not because of good planning on my part but it worked out OK.

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Post by Cracker Larry » Sun Jul 31, 2005 11:02 am

OK Tim, I just posted the pics you wanted to see in my gallery.

timoub007
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Post by timoub007 » Mon Aug 01, 2005 9:27 pm

Thank you Larry. Got a manufacturer and part number for that thing? I think I'll get three if I can find them and put two on the rear corners (inside).

I've got about all of the cleats glued on and am about to start on the rubrail lamination. The only ones left are the small side ones for the bow deck. I can't seem to find the right location for them w/o screwing up the deck fit. I think I'll just screw the deck down and fit them (with screws) when I get the hull flipped. I'll be able to see it from the underside and put them right where they need to go prior to stitching the bottom panel on.

Tim

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Post by Cracker Larry » Mon Aug 01, 2005 10:07 pm

Tim, the bow cleat came from Boat US and made by Wilcox Crittendon, about $28.00 ea. I'm going to get 2 more for the stern. Still need to get oarlocks too.

Those cleats under the bow seat are tricky. I used a thin wooden batten bent from the forward frame to bow transom to draw a reference line on the sides. Your way will work too.

I'm working on rod racks now, gun racks next. Build on :!:

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