MF14 - Minnesota

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fallguy1000
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by fallguy1000 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:13 pm

Preventing runs is done by reducing the mil thickness.

Using a lower nap roller; for example, or a roller that loads less.

Are you tipping off?

If you tip off; keep a clean cup by the tip brush and unload excess after each pass.

Good luck; looks great!


My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

walkabout_slp
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by walkabout_slp » Wed Jul 18, 2018 11:42 am

fallguy,
I "rolled and tipped". Rolled with a 4" roller labelled "fine finish" from the local big box. I tried using a foam brush for tipping but ended switching to a good bristle brush as it gave better results.
I had not been removing excess paint from the brush after tipping, but will from now on.

2nd coat came out great, except for 2 spots where some insects decided to land. I will have to touch those spots up tonight before flipping the boat so I can paint the deck side.

Question:
Should I wait a few days before flipping the boat so that the paint can harden/cure more?
I am worried about the finish it being "soft" until it fully cures.
I plan on using carpet scraps over the temporary cradle I have when the boar is deck up.

fallguy1000
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:26 pm

Typical wait is 7 days unless you cook.

Petit might have full cure time in the tds at say 72 hours though?

Sorry. I might go like 3-4 days and work on other things vs getting the paint stuck to carpet pads.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:27 pm

Sometimes you might only get a drop of paint off the tipping brush, but the buildup is what does the run.
My boat build is here -------->

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walkabout_slp
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by walkabout_slp » Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:43 pm

Checked Pettit and this is all they say about cure time:
Easypoxy and EZ-Poxy can be polished and waxed after a 7 day cure time. It is especially important to allow the finish to
completely cure prior to polishing and waxing to allow all solvents remaining in the paint to flash out. Premature waxing
will trap the solvents in the paint making them soft.
Looks like I will have to wait 7 days before I can flip the boat!
Winter is coming. At this rate I will be doing my maiden voyage when the first snows fly ;-)

fallguy1000
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by fallguy1000 » Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:28 pm

Flip it Monday evening.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

walkabout_slp
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by walkabout_slp » Mon Jul 30, 2018 2:02 pm

@smallboatrestoration,
I have checked out your blog where you have restored many old Sunfish, but can't find any specifics on making a wooden splash guard.
I think you mention on one of the blog posts (http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.co ... vnuts.html) that Sunfish had 3 types of splash guards:
1st generation: curved wooden ones
2nd generation(mustache) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ykktwSsYiIs/ ... 957ish.jpg)
3rd generation (plastic) ~$200.

I want to build a wooden one like the 2nd generation. Do you have any recommendations on making one and attaching to the deck?

Chenier
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by Chenier » Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:55 am

I have the same question, but alas quite a ways from needing the answer ...

I measured a 1966 fiberglass Sunfish earlier this month. The coaming is 3" high at the centerline. "High" as in vertical height above the deck, not slant distance. 1.5" high out at the ends.

The Star Class boats used a wooden block for a center support - which may be easier than fabricating the brass fitting shown in the link.

I was thinking of epoxying the whole thing down. That doesn't seem very repairable, though - especially for a part that's sticking out there saying "hit me".

walkabout_slp
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by walkabout_slp » Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:15 am

Chenier,
Thanks for the measurements. Do you know what angle the coaming is to the deck? what thickness is it?
I too was wondering about attaching the coming to the deck. Do you have a photo of the wooden block for suppport?

This is my current idea. Angle the coaming x? degrees, with a little support where it will attach to the deck to give the screws something to screw through:
Image
Without the support piece screwing might not work, but epoxying should work?

Got a 2nd coat on the deck last night:
Image

Chenier
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Post by Chenier » Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:15 am

Sorry, I didn't measure the cant angle or thickness. Will do that next time I get my hands on that sunfish, but it'll be a few weeks. You probably can't go too wrong with TLAR.

Now here's Step 23f in the Alcort instructions for assembling a wooden sunfish (found online):

"The coaming bracket (#63) is screwed to the deck with one 3/4" screw". The screw hole should be located 16-1/4" forward of the forward edge of the daggerboard slot along the centerline of the deck. Hold one of the coaming pieces against the casting so that the inside of the bevel comes even with the point of the casting, and attach with two 3/4" screws. Attach the second coaming piece similarly. Aligh the assembled coaming so that the ends are the same distance in from each side. Drill for a 2-1/2" screw through each of the pre-drilled holes in the ends of the coaming, using a 3/16" drill, and attach. Plugs (#27) are installed so that the grain runs in the same direction as the grain in the coaming. Trim plugs level with the coaming and touch up with varnish."

It looks like the factory pre-drilled through the coaming from one edge to the other, out near the ends. You can see the plug in the top edge of the coaming: https://sunfishclass.net/about-isco-1/

Here's the foredeck of an old Star Class racer at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum showing a wooden block in lieu of a metal casting:

Image

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