AD16 Myrtle Beach

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Bogieman
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Bogieman » Thu Sep 12, 2019 8:21 pm

das boot wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 7:42 pm
The hard part is yet to come getting the inside of that keel opening glassed is a bugger i put a brush on a long stick that i could fit down that slot and getting the glass in there was a chalange but you can get it ok then painting is the same problem
Hi George! I'm not planning on glassing inside the shoe, only the outside portions.



fallguy1000
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by fallguy1000 » Thu Sep 12, 2019 10:24 pm

Bogieman wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 8:21 pm
das boot wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 7:42 pm
The hard part is yet to come getting the inside of that keel opening glassed is a bugger i put a brush on a long stick that i could fit down that slot and getting the glass in there was a chalange but you can get it ok then painting is the same problem
Hi George! I'm not planning on glassing inside the shoe, only the outside portions.
My brother has had trouble with the centerboard sticking in his wood boat. The wood swells and the margin is too tight.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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Capt UB
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Capt UB » Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:33 am

We used graphite on the board and inside the trunk, never thought about adding it to the epoxy mix back then! We did use Triflow Lubricant a few times, that stuff was dangerous if you got it on your hands or deck!
><((((º>¸.•´¯`•><((((º> ¸.•´¯`•.¸¸><((((º> ¸.•´¯`•.><((((º>

Bogieman
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Bogieman » Fri Sep 13, 2019 10:21 am

The center board will be glassed completely . The tolerances between the center board and Center board case are such that jamming or swelling ( if swelling were to happen ) won’t be a problem . Also the slot on my keel shoe is slightly wider than the slot around the center board case therefore it will never make contact with the center board . No worries here. Also I could not find anywhere on the plans where it mandates glassing the inside of the trunk. I glassed my shoe to the hull but even that was not required. The only thing specified regarding fiber glassing of the shoe in the building notes states to cover the shoe in leftover glass for abrasion resistance

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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by jacquesmm » Fri Sep 13, 2019 10:46 am

Correct.
You don't have to glass the inside of the trunk but it is a good option.
Drawing B268/8, note # 1 says:
Optional: fiberglass inside with 9 oz. woven before assembly.
4 or 6 oz. is fine too, it's just for abrasion.
In all cases, paint the inside with graphite.
The CB is made from 3 layers 1/2" and profiled. It should be glassed and coated with graphite to resist abrasion.
See page 5 of the notes:
The keel-centerboard is made of 3 layers of ½” = 1-1/2”. It is fiberglassed, faired and painted and that can bring it to a little less than 1-3/4”.
The inside width of the box is defined by the battens on each side. Usually, a 2” wide nominal board is 1-3/4” which is perfect but check.
Keep an eye on the thickness and/or on the inside width of the case. An epoxy saturated and coated CB will not swell and the almost 2" inside is wide enough for cleaning and maintenance. If you build the pivot as on the drawing, you can easily remove the CB for clean up.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://bateau.com

Bogieman
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Bogieman » Fri Sep 13, 2019 12:38 pm

jacquesmm wrote:
Fri Sep 13, 2019 10:46 am
Correct.
You don't have to glass the inside of the trunk but it is a good option.
Drawing B268/8, note # 1 says:
Optional: fiberglass inside with 9 oz. woven before assembly.
4 or 6 oz. is fine too, it's just for abrasion.
In all cases, paint the inside with graphite.
The CB is made from 3 layers 1/2" and profiled. It should be glassed and coated with graphite to resist abrasion.
See page 5 of the notes:
The keel-centerboard is made of 3 layers of ½” = 1-1/2”. It is fiberglassed, faired and painted and that can bring it to a little less than 1-3/4”.
The inside width of the box is defined by the battens on each side. Usually, a 2” wide nominal board is 1-3/4” which is perfect but check.
Keep an eye on the thickness and/or on the inside width of the case. An epoxy saturated and coated CB will not swell and the almost 2" inside is wide enough for cleaning and maintenance. If you build the pivot as on the drawing, you can easily remove the CB for clean up.
Thank you, Jacques. The CB Case/ CB & CB pivot were all built according to tghe plans. I already test fit the centerboard into the slot (by myself) before adding the glass- it fit as expected and it will be perfect once glassed and painted.

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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Bogieman » Wed Sep 18, 2019 4:38 pm

Finished glassing the centerboard, put a final coat of microballoons on the transom , used microballoons to build a nice cosmetic fillet under the rubber rails and did more sanding on the keel shoe
Attachments
FB7B8426-34CC-4C0F-BA1B-D4028225F13E.jpeg
9CC525D1-F390-4D83-BAC2-541FEAF73BDA.jpeg
01D2ECF0-AD3F-488A-A850-EC270EB4C2C6.jpeg
B1EE13CB-4207-446C-BBAE-671316AD5291.jpeg
42C451DB-F400-4CC7-A957-1EBBCD33D4FF.jpeg
72074DBD-3210-49E2-BD71-C4A6B8BDA263.jpeg

Jeff
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Jeff » Thu Sep 19, 2019 7:38 am

Nice progress Bogie!!!!! Jeff

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OrangeQuest
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by OrangeQuest » Thu Sep 19, 2019 4:42 pm

Everything is looking NEAT! :D
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

Bogieman
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Re: AD16 Myrtle Beach

Post by Bogieman » Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:04 pm

Thanks OQ and Jeff! I would've finished the hull fairing today but I planned poorly and ran out of sandpaper instead :lol: Off to Lowes first thing tomorrow morning. A few more hours of sanding and she'll be ready for primer on Saturday

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