Another Cracker GF12

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Murry
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Murry » Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:01 pm

Looking good Larry,

I sold my 14 foot alumacraft to help me buy a trailer and I've been considering building a gf 12 next to replace it ever since.
This thread just may push me over the edge. :D That's the perfect size to slide in the back of my turck for bass fishing.

I like your move to double up the front transom, I did that on my 16 and I'm really glad I did. Have you done that on any of your previous builds?

I'm looking forward to seeing her come together.



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Cracker Larry
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Cracker Larry » Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:44 pm

I like your move to double up the front transom, I did that on my 16 and I'm really glad I did. Have you done that on any of your previous builds?
No, this is a first. On my GF16 it seemed I was always pushing that flat bow against something, and it would sometimes flex alarmingly if the something was a pretty solid cypress knee or dock. A V hull will usually deflect off a stump one way or another, but a square bowed boat comes to a sudden stop 8O This will be a cypress swamp boat, not open water, so I'm building her to bounce off trees.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Arm&Hammer
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Arm&Hammer » Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:09 am

Hi Larry,

Did you get your bottom panels cut? I am also curious if you are going to cut any kind of limber holes, and if you are putting in a drain plug. I was thinking about leaving a small opening in the frames at the chine to allow the water to flow down one side or the other.

I am still waiting on ply... ...hopefully today. In the meantime, I did some minor repair to damage on my CC14, I am going to raise the seat a little, and put on a fresh coat of paint. I fish out of it quite a bit, so it see some abuse.

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Cracker Larry » Tue Jun 16, 2009 11:15 am

Yes, we got the bottom panels cut and spliced, both side panels cut and spliced, and the stern transom glued up. Will probably glue the bow transom today also, then we'll be ready for assembly. It's been so hot, I've been working slow.

I'll cut limber holes in all the frames, on both sides near the chine. They are a necessity, as is a drain plug. Got to let the water out somehow :wink:

Haven't taken a lot of pictures but here's the transom about to be glued up. Notice the 2 dowel pins, they will index the 3 parts and keep them in alignment until the glue sets. These are better than an extra set of hands 8)

Image
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Cracker Larry » Thu Jun 18, 2009 7:53 pm

Whew, summer is finally here. She was slow in coming, but rolled in with a vengance when she decided it was time :help:

Sam, Delila and I have really had to pace ourselves to get anything done, seems to get harder every year but wer'e making progress and haven't been hopitalized, yet.

We've finished all the frames, got them cut out, sanded, limber holes cut, bow frame cut out for the anchor locker, all ready for installation. A&H, you asked about limber holes. I cut mine with a 2" hole saw and locate them 3" in from each chine. If you butt 2 frame bottoms together with the limber hole positions aligned, you can cut 2 at a time with a hole saw :wink:

Here's the bow frame cut out for the anchor locker access. This kind of stuff is a lot easier to do flat on a bench than in the boat, as are limber holes. I used the same round stanchion base to lay out all the radiuses on the boat, that way they all match.

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The dogs have appropriated both fans, they say it's too hot for words and they know I've lost my mind :doh:

After everything is cut out, spliced, sanded where possible, again easier on the bench, it's time for some assembly. We attach one side panel to the 2 center frames, using clamps, then drywall screws. The butt blocks position these 2 frames, makes it easy 8)

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Then we attach the other side panel, first clamped, then screwed,

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After that the transom goes on, first one side then the other, 2 drywall screws each side, not too tight. Easy on a flat surface. We're just using the bottom of the boat as a flat surface.

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Then the bow transom. They are trickier, you have to block up the bottom to support everything. I used a long bar clamp to pull the side panels together against the transom. A ratchet strap will work too, but you'll need something if your helper is a hot and useless dog like mine. Pre-start your drywall screws if you're short of hands.

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A little fiddling, not much cussin', the bow transom is in place...

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The dogs have now retreated to the air conditioning, so I have my fans back 8) After the bow transom, I attached the forward and rear frames, positioned and screwed..

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And then installed the center seat which fit like a glove :D

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In fact everything fits just right 8) It looks like the bottom panel will only need a few stitches to pull it down, that's a job for tomorrow. Not a bad day's work, but I'm done in. A dip in the pool, a big cold drink, life is good :lol:
Last edited by Cracker Larry on Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

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wegcagle
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by wegcagle » Thu Jun 18, 2009 7:59 pm

She's lookin' GREAT C.L., but I gotta say....if you keep going at this pace you'll NEVER make 286 pages :lol:

Will
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GV15, D4 done! Dreaming about the next one

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Cracker Larry » Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:10 pm

Thanks :lol: That was a 2 year project Will. I'm going to try to wrap this one up in 6 weeks :wink:
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

Arm&Hammer
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Arm&Hammer » Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:12 pm

Looking great CL! I really like the tip on using the dowels for the transom - that will make it a lot easier!

I saw your splice on the bottom panel. It looks fine, but I am starting to get cold feet based on my limited experience, and I may stick with the bottom butt block based on Jacques stiffness comment in one of my earlier threads. I would rather not have it there, but on the other hand, a 1/4" butt block is nothing compared to the big riveted ribs that are all over the floor of most aluminum jon boats. What is your take on it? Do you think your FG splice will be fine? Will you be adding glass to the inside?

I like the limber holes. That looks about right. On a flat bottom boat, it makes sense to have one on each side rather than one in the middle. However, couldn't I just leave an opening at the corner of each frame, right at the chine? With all of the overlapping glass, I wouldn't think it would be a strength issue, and with my limited tools, I think it might be easier to just chamfer the frame corner. Do you think that would create any strength issues?

Your comment on drain plugs. Having fished my whole life out of aluminum boats, all of them equipped with drain plugs, we always just leaned them over to drain rather than using the plug. That was the basis of my question. In the long run, I guess it makes sense to put one in there for the times when turning it on edge or hand bailing just isn't feasible. Before I do mine, I will wait to see your post on how you do it. :)

I also noticed that you cut down the transom for a 15" shaft. I like a high transom, but on a boat this small, I like the lower CG of a short shaft engine, so I will be making the same modification to mine. Actually, I will be making several mods. I will apologize in advance. I am an engineer, who uses ACad on a regular basis, so it is impossible for me to leave well enough alone. :wink:

My mods:
-I will be reducing the beam by 3" to ensure that it will fit between the wheel wells of my truck(this is a very simple mod considering the symmetry of this boat). I will also be reducing the sheer by 1". These modifications also give me the extra that I need for the rubrail.

-The hull will be Meranti BS1088 (1/4" as specified). All of the frames will be Meranti BS1088 (3/8", smaller than specified, but OK'd by Jacques in a previous thread), with the exception of the transom and front deck, which will be made out of Okoume BS1088 Joubert (1/2" as specified).

-I will be shortening the front deck by a couple of inches, and dropping it by a couple of inches. This should slightly reduce the weight (an important factor for me), lower the CG for anyone standing on the front deck, and I also want to put one layer of the rubrail on the inside - handy for mounting portable rodholders, fishfinder, etc.

Coincidentally, these modifications allow me to slightly reduce the amount of ply required. If I had to do the numbers by hand, I would have just scaled everything down; but I did not want to shorten the length of the boat. After these changes, I was able to reduce it down to 3 sheets of 1/4", 2 sheets of 3/8", and 1/2 sheet of 1/2" (the 1/2 sheet of Okoume that I bought was scrap laying around at my wood supplier, so I HAD to make that work out).

All of this probably seems like a waste of time to some builders, but the planning phase is a lot of fun for me, and I was able to save a little money on ply (assuming that I don't make any mistakes :!: ).

Sorry about the heat. Up here, I have yet to turn the A/C on. Maybe next week.

Also, while I am asking so many questions, what did you cut the transom down to? Did you cut it to 15-1/4" along the entire width of the lowered portion on the transom, or did you put a slight curvature to it?

Please keep the pics coming...!!!

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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Cracker Larry » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:08 am

What is your take on it? Do you think your FG splice will be fine? Will you be adding glass to the inside?
Well,,,if I didn't think it would be fine, I sure wouldn't have done it this way :wink: They've been fine on the last 3 boats I built, so I reckon this one will be OK too. Yes, I intend to glass the inside also.
couldn't I just leave an opening at the corner of each frame, right at the chine? With all of the overlapping glass, I wouldn't think it would be a strength issue, and with my limited tools, I think it might be easier to just chamfer the frame corner. Do you think that would create any strength issues?
Yes, I think it might create a strength issue, not to mention a PITA to tape the frames and chines. The easiest way is seldom the best in my experience. You could cut these with a jig saw. You need to ask Jacques about the strength issue, I really don't know, but I do know it will make taping more difficult.
Your comment on drain plugs. Having fished my whole life out of aluminum boats, all of them equipped with drain plugs, we always just leaned them over to drain rather than using the plug.


I've always found it hard to lean them over when they are on a trailer, with the motor on. Even harder when you're out on the water :doh: We get a lot of water in the boat from shrimping, and summer thunderstorms. With a transom drain you just pull the plug, put the boat on a half plane and all the water runs out. Beats the heck out of bailing :lol:
Also, while I am asking so many questions, what did you cut the transom down to? Did you cut it to 15-1/4" along the entire width of the lowered portion on the transom, or did you put a slight curvature to it?
I cut it down to 15 1/2", no curve. Not sure the purpose of the curve, just a visual thing I think. The cut out is 30" wide for tiller clearance.

All of your mods sound reasonable. No problem narrowing the beam a little to fit your truck. I'm considering lowering the sheer on this one, the sides don't need to be so high. I'm going to play with that some today. I may also lower and shorten the casting deck
Sorry about the heat. Up here, I have yet to turn the A/C on.
Forecast is 102 today, heat index 115, 104 tomorrow, heat index 120 and not a breath of wind :help: It's too hot to fish.
All of this probably seems like a waste of time to some builders, but the planning phase is a lot of fun for me, and I was able to save a little money on ply (assuming that I don't make any mistakes ).
Not at all. The planning is part of the fun, as is having a boat built just the way you want it 8)
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

Arm&Hammer
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Re: Another Cracker GF12

Post by Arm&Hammer » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:48 am

All points taken. I need to giddy up and start cutting soon!

One more request. Can I see a pic of the inside of the rear transom? I am curious how much clamping board that you have left. I was thinking of cutting my transom low first, and then making the clamping boards based on this lower height (if I built it for 20", then cut down 5", I will only have about 4" of clamping board left :doh: ). I am also curious to see how much space you have above the rear seat. I assume that we are both going to have to do a cutout there.

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