FS13 - Bootje

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Gramps
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by Gramps » Mon Nov 30, 2015 8:31 am

Got to work on the boat a bit more this past week. I spent about 1 hour Tuesday night and 2-1/2 hours last night (Sunday) getting more work done.


Tuesday was a day for joining panels and gluing the transom. I used 6oz biax tape, yes way overkill and not what JM spec'd, but I HATE woven fabric. Anyhoo, mixed up 12 ounces of epoxy for 63 inches of tape, wet out of ply and a tack coat for the transom pieces. This turned out to be a little too much but really only about 2 ounces. Mixed another 9oz batch for the transom glue which was about perfect.

Wet out plywood, wet out cloth, squeegee on peel ply, plastic, and then weights. Worked well for me!

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Headed out of town to visit family and came home to get this done Sunday. She looks like a Bootje!! 8)

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Need to build a table and some wedges to match the frame angles. She is a bit splayed out in these photos but all of the stitches are loose now.



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Noles309
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by Noles309 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:11 am

Sweet!
Gary
GF-16 Completed

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jacquesmm
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by jacquesmm » Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:41 am

If the stringers push against the transom, cut a little bit off, it will keep them straight.
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Fuzz
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by Fuzz » Mon Nov 30, 2015 8:17 pm

Gramps, thanks for sharing. This is going to be a neat build. I have no need for one, nor is there a place I could use one if I had one, but it is sure neat to look at. :D
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Cracker Larry
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by Cracker Larry » Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:45 pm

I have no need for one
Me either, but I'm going to build one anyway :D
nor is there a place I could use one
I've got plenty of places to use it. Me and dog might have a real good time with it in the swamp.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Dec 01, 2015 2:39 pm

BTW, I overlooked that:
Tuesday was a day for joining panels and gluing the transom. I used 6oz biax tape, yes way overkill and not what JM spec'd,
Keep in mind that Gramps is talking about the splices.
There is almost no tape on that boat. Inside, a little bit at bow, transom and along the keel but that's it no taped chine.
Later, you will fiberglass with 6 oz. all over everything with an overlap at the keel. Nothing more is needed.
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jbo_c
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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by jbo_c » Tue Dec 01, 2015 5:19 pm

How do you pronounce 'bootje'? Is it "boot-jay"? or "booge"? or something else? My brain insists on stopping to ponder this each time I cross this thread.

Thanks.

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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by Dougster » Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:14 pm

I'm following this thread too, and admire how neat it looks and how your zip tie stitching is going so well. I don't need one either but think I'll build one anyway too :lol: Right now I'm fiddling with a 1/3 size model. I'm about where you are but may struggle a bit with the alignment and zip tie thing. I've been thinking about putting one of those fancy anchor lock trolling motors in front, but wonder about the trim. Maybe have to move the battery to the stern? With the remote control you could stand back from the stern and help things. I also wonder if walking around the seat, holding post, etc. to get to the trolling motor and lower or raise it would be a bit tippy :doh: Sure would prefer a troll motor on the nose than the stern.

Random thoughts Dougster

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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by RCC-SKIFFS » Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:23 pm

From my experience running small Skiffs in our NMZ, without the extra weight in the back handling will be sloppy. Using an Ipilot or copilot different story

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Re: FS13 - Bootje

Post by stickystuff » Wed Dec 02, 2015 6:39 am

A little tip for other builders. The drain hole in the transom area can be cut out very neatly with a hole saw if you have one . I have prob 30 dif. hole saws and I picked out a 6' one that I had. lay out your transom, mark a center line and a flat line where the bottom of the sole lines up with the drain. Using a 1/4" arbor on the hole saw drill a hole flush with the bottom of the drain. Next, take your hole saw and tilt it at approx 45 deg. angle. I start out in reverse with the drill. This way it won't grab and jump making a nasty cut. Then switch to forward and carefully cut the hole while the saw is at this angle. Watch close to stop the hole saw at the bottom of the drain surface. Remove the saw and finish the final cut with a jig saw. Sand all the edges and you have a neat and clean drain hole. :D :doh:
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