mat australia sk14

[Fair WX Pilot]

Hi,
Initially I also thought "Rome" was a great name and was going to agree, but then I remembered what happened to it under the Nero administration. Flames..... not good! For the same reasons I have always liked the name "Atlantis" but the whole "slipping beneath the waves " makes it a little inappropriate. How about "Elbow Grease " your surely going to be using a lot of that as you sand down all the fairing.

[Jaysen]

I think we can mitigate the Nero problem... as for ID before anyone boards. If named Nero ... well, let them meet the same fate!

[mataus]

I like the name "Elbow Grease "but as the faring is only starting i feel that i am yet to earn the name!
what level of finish will i be happy with

[Jaysen]

Perfect. Name.

No matter what level you decide is acceptable you will earn the right to use that name.

[mataus]

Hi Guys,

I like the name" elbow grease". it is currently in pole position.

I have sanded down the whole boat and i am about to put on the first/next layer of fairing mixture.
I am aware that sharpening the edges and a keel are optional in this design but i plan on doing both from a learning point of view.

should they both be done now and then fair on top or do you get everything fair and then add corners/keel? if there is fairing epoxy first will that weaken the bond?
Also I was hoping to get an idea of design as it is not specified in the plan, i.e. should i sharpen the aft 3rd ? if you sharpen too far forward, will it create hull slap? will you notice if there is no sharpener transom/ chine ? i plan on using petrol electric and paddle power at different times.

the keel, how long should it be? what characteristics does the keel length give? is there an ideal length or height or profile?
I know in this design it probably doesn't matter but out of interest I was hoping to spark some conversation in general theory around these topics.

Thanks guys

[Fuzz]

To sharpen the chines I like to do it before fairing and I use epoxy/wood flour to do it. I will let some one else answer the other questions.

[seaslug]

After creating a 1/2" radius, than glassing the hull, you build a dam around the transom and down each side of the hull going forward and fill the chine with a mixture of epoxy and milled glass fibers. From my experience the milled glass fiber mixture is a harder surface than with using wood flour. After removing your forms and sanding and shaping the sharp chine edge using a rigid long board from keel to chine on the bottom, you can also use the longboard from chine to sheer keeping the board flat against the hull sides. This way the milled glass and epoxy makes the finished sharp chine without any softer fairing compound along that edge that can chip off easier. The newly formed sharpened chine edge than becomes your guide to fill in the low spots with fairing compound. For form, I use lengths of 1x6 with clear packaging tape so they release after the epoxy cures fully, and I screw the boards tightly to the hull and the screw holes get filled on the outside, than the inside of the hull gets glassed anyway. Do not try to remove the forms until the epoxy is fully cured, or it can pull away from the hull. I sharpened my chines about 5 feet forward of the transom. Just a guess on my part.

[Newt]

Think of how much will be in the water while on plane. That's the part that needs sharpening.

Newt

[BB Sig]

Keep in mind that this is still designed as a large SUP/ kayak. Pulling it in and out of the truck will damage the sharp edges quickly. I think as low speed as the design was meant to go, I would forgo the sharp edges.

All that said, it is your boat and if you plan to go fast and far, it might be worth it. You have to make the call if the effort is worth the small perceived gain.

[mataus]

Thanks guys,

this is all a learning process for me, so i was going to sharpen just to give it a go.

I asked the question to try to confirm the theory in my head.
just clarifying:

-if only paddling or electric motor, there would be no gain.
- at planing speed sharper edges would decrease drag? thus theoretically reducing fuel consumption, increase speed, faster onto the plane, better grip in turns ?
- only sharpen the transom and caudal 4-5 feet; as a) any further is a waste of time and b) it may increase hull slap if at the bow.

-I know for my build it probably doesn't matter but is that a reasonable summary?

I have a long weekend and was hoping to achieve something on the boat. Everyone talks of adding milled fibre to the epoxy so the edges are tougher. I have no milled fibre.
if i just use fillet powder will they readily chip out or once again am i overthinking it and to add an Australian saying.
"she'll be right mate" or can you make your own chopping up 6oz mat (or is that a stupid suggestion)

cheers.