SK14 build in NC

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wannabatc
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SK14 build in NC

Post by wannabatc » Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:01 am

Hey guys here's some pics to show what progress has been made. Did my first fiberglass work last night. Some good some bad. I glued the bottom, sides, and stringers all at the same time. Got a good newb lesson about pot life. I thought at 60 degrees I would have more time to work but I worked too slow and my resin got thick towards the end. Oh well I guess that's why we learn on the inside!

Picked up the mercury 2 stroke a few weeks ago. Got to have a lanyard with this little boat! ( or all boats, really). 12 bucks off amazon. If you need to do this conversion make sure you get a universal switch. Your outboard may run with the switch open or closed. Pretty easy to check with a multimer just check the switch you take off and wire the new one accordingly.

Question. Does the biaxial tape go on with the stitching inside touching the plywood, or with the stitching outside and the fiberglass against the ply. Or does it matter.

Observation. Plastic sheeting makes a great smooth surface and I'm sold on doing that. But don't stack anything on top of it. Plywood, resin, glass, peel ply. Nothing else. :(
Attachments
IMG_0044.JPG
Late 70's pretty clean 7.5 mercury 2 stroke. 65 pounds
IMG_0042.JPG
IMG_0047.JPG
Getting ready to glue bottom, sides, and stringers



Dougster
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by Dougster » Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:19 pm

Diggin' that view of early Dylan in the pic.

Don't Thnk Twice Dougster

wannabatc
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by wannabatc » Sun Mar 05, 2017 9:44 pm

Well that made me think more than twice.

How bout it there Dougster? Anybody?

Does the fiberglass on the 6 in double bias tape go against the plywood or does the stitching go against the plywood? I've honestly searched and can't find an answer. Probably only I would stress over such a detail :doh: . Nobody else cares.

I'm just going to go get my Wayfarers on and look at this again.

Dylan shadows?

Way to much time on my hands waiting for paint (epoxy) to dry.

Jaysen
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by Jaysen » Sun Mar 05, 2017 9:52 pm

Glass on ply. The stitching gets sanded off leaving just the glass. At least that's what is supposed to happen.

wannabatc
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by wannabatc » Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:04 pm

Thank you! That makes sense and is what I did. Honestly didn't think about the stitching getting sanded off, though. Just made sense for the glad to be on the ply.

I think the Dylan poster should come out of the basement and back on the wall of my bedroom.

My wife disagrees. She says that was for when I was in college 35 years ago. Suggests I might consider growing up.

I think I can actually hear that epoxy drying. One bond at a time. Did I spend too much time in the basement sniffing epoxy fumes?

Jaysen
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by Jaysen » Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:34 pm

My wife suggested I grow up once. The neighbors thought she was beating me from all the screaming and crying I did. :wink:

I was a diehard slow hardener guy thanks to the warm start to my build. After the wonderful productivity fast hardener provided today, I'm going to suggest that everyone consider half slow half fast. Really does speed up the build which reduces the impatient waiting for "paint to dry" we all seem to experience.

wannabatc
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by wannabatc » Mon Mar 06, 2017 7:27 am

Yeah in hindsight I would have bought medium and fast. I was attracted to the no blush property of the slow. Plus being new to this I thought it would be to my advantage. Now I'm worried about the slow kicking over in my basement which stays about 60 degrees +\- 1 or 2.

Jaysen
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by Jaysen » Mon Mar 06, 2017 8:33 am

at 60 your looking at 3-4 days for it to be a bit hard, 6 to sand.

I would suggest getting the smallest kit of fast. Based on my playing around yesterday (and checking this morning, use a ratio of 2:0.75:0.25 (res:slow:fast) to get to a sanding hardness in 24h with that temp. if you want it a bit faster increase the amount of fast but reduce the slow equally. My experience with the straight up fast is that it will kick (and burn your hand) if you are mixing in additives and are a bit cautious (read slow) in your mixing.

Straight fast has a pot life of about 10min at 65F. It was sanding hard in about 4 hours. That was a 6oz batch with silica.

tcason
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by tcason » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:31 am

I like my epoxy at about 80 to 85 degrees before I mix - the consistency is much better - runny to wet out fiberglass.

wannabatc
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Re: SK14 build in NC

Post by wannabatc » Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:21 pm

Got some pics, updated, and questions.
It's all stitched up and ready to start tack welds. I'm worried however that I was too OCD about measurements and symmetry and that the gaps between adjoining bottom and sides are too small. I remember reading about leaving gaps for the wood putty to get into. Am I going to have to cut all the zip ties and restich it?
Attachments
IMG_0771.JPG
Gap
IMG_0773.JPG
No gap.
IMG_0771.JPG
This is toward the bow
This


Gap

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