D5 Build

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ks8
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Re: D5 Build

Post by ks8 » Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:44 pm

I ripped a single piece of decking into strips about 1/8 inch thick, maybe 5/32. They did not need a steambox at all. They were intended only as bumper trim strips, and as seen in the pictures, did that perfectly. They almost seemed flimsy putting them on, but they are not structural, only tough trim strips. The price was right. The neighbor brought home trash scraps from deck jobs. I can't help you with that.

I'm sure you will find satisfaction in whatever method you use. I found this particular approach very easy, light, and functional -- but it did dull the tablesaw blade ripping that ipe plank. The similar trim strip on the bow is mahogany and looks good, simple as it is. Here it is during some touchup.

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Parkrat
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Re: D5 Build

Post by Parkrat » Sat Jan 27, 2018 9:25 am

Thanks Jeff!

ks8 that looks really nice. We are going to Wood World today and they have mahogany so that might be what we will use. Can't find ipe anywhere around here..

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ks8
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Re: D5 Build

Post by ks8 » Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:43 am

Thanks. Dings and scrapes happen. Very thin hardwood laminates usually do not need a steam box, and the main structural rubrail can be the designed plywood builtup laminates. The hardwood trim then does do its job. Ahhhh.... I'm repetitive again, and saying the same thing.... :lol: :)

Ask around the contractors who install backyard decks. You may get your wood for the lowest price, or free for giving them the link to your build pictures and giving them credit for the wood, and if they have high-end clients, you might get your mahogany or ipe or both. :D

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Re: D5 Build

Post by Parkrat » Mon Jan 29, 2018 1:05 pm

Well, Wood World in Dallas is a cool place. They have all kinds of wood working stuff and wood. It was fun to look through.

I found a 8x6 piece of African Mahogany. Should do the trick. They had some cool zebrawood there, but way too expensive for me.

Plan is to bend using steam, clamp it to the hull and let it dry. Then remove it.. epoxy it.. sand it.. expoxy it.. then put a few coats of varnish on it. Then glue it to the hull. I assume thickened epoxy will work on mahogany?

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Re: D5 Build

Post by Jeff » Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:17 pm

Nice Parkrat!! Glad you found something you are happy with close to you. Jeff

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ks8
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Re: D5 Build

Post by ks8 » Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:39 pm

I know oak steams and shapes well, within reason. Still, it can break during the process if there is grain runout. I don't know about mahogany or ipe. If it works, certainly let us know how agreeably it works, details, etc.

I tend to avoid clamping wet (including steam soaked) wood directly to the plywood side(s). Although, it might be alright, as long as the plywood is then allowed to dry thoroughly, I prefer to avoid the situation entirely. Other builders might jump in here and say it worked fine for them. I don't know. Waiting for plywood to dry out thoroughly adds more time to the build. I did plenty of "time adding things" already without having to wait for wet wood to dry! :lol: Maybe laying a plastic painters tarp over the sheer will keep it dry enough when clamping the steamed dimensional stock into place?

Remember to keep the pressure/force equal on both sides in the process, so the hull does not deform unbalanced. And you already have a capable helper to speed the bending and clamping as soon as the rail is out of the steambox, if you go that route. :)

If possible, let the rails be maybe six inches or a foot longer on both ends, so you have material to grasp and work with for bending and clamping. This isn't nearly as necessary when using plywood rails. And even with hardwood, it isn't essential, but it sure is convenient.

And don't forget some pictures....

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Re: D5 Build

Post by Jaysen » Mon Jan 29, 2018 4:52 pm

ks8 wrote:
Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:39 pm
Maybe laying a plastic painters tarp over the sheer will keep it dry enough when clamping the steamed dimensional stock into place?
I've done that. It works to keep the water out of already dry wood BUT can leave mars on the steamed wood. Not in issue in this case.
ks8 wrote:
Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:39 pm
Still, it can break during the process if there is grain runout.
Use a backer of 1/4" ply or other strong but flexi material. Use the ply to apply the pressure (think bending the ply) and that will reduce the internal stress that lead to breaking.
ks8 wrote:
Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:39 pm
If possible, let the rails be maybe six inches or a foot longer on both ends, so you have material to grasp and work with for bending and clamping. This isn't nearly as necessary when using plywood rails. And even with hardwood, it isn't essential, but it sure is convenient.
very good advice. If you use a backer (what you are actually bending) then you need to make it even longer.

Good luck!
Jaysen wrote:
Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:44 pm
I tried to say something but God thought I was wrong and filled my mouth with saltwater. I kept my pie hole shut after that.

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Re: D5 Build

Post by Parkrat » Mon Jan 29, 2018 10:10 pm

Thanks guys for all the advice! For sure I'll be taking some pictures once we start the steaming and bending.

We were supposed to be done with this in November so I've added plenty of time to this build. Now I'm to the point where I want to experiment and make a cool little dinghy. Figured if I screw up the wood I bought for the rub rail we can go buy more. My girlfriend paid for the mahogany :lol:

I like the idea of the plastic tarp.

Went to West Marine and checked out bow eyes. I couldn't accept the fact that they were so expensive so bought some SS ubolts from Lowes. They were only $3 a piece. Compared to $20 a piece at West Marine it was a no brainer.

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Re: D5 Build

Post by topwater » Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:14 am

When it comes to stainless steel you get what you pay for they are not all equal. For example 304 versus 316 or 316L .
Novi 23 finally launched !

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Re: D5 Build

Post by OrangeQuest » Tue Jan 30, 2018 9:08 am

topwater wrote:
Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:14 am
When it comes to stainless steel you get what you pay for they are not all equal. For example 304 versus 316 or 316L .
I found an easy way to test for quality stainless steel that will hold up to time. Can't tell you about strength but for resistance to rust and corrosion get a magnet and see how well it "sticks". If you can feel the pull on a magnet when you pull away you are looking at cheap SS. Needs to have the right amount of nickel in it to hold up.

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