FS17 in Steinhatchee

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Dutch1
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by Dutch1 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:44 am

thb wrote:
Thu Jan 31, 2019 7:30 pm
Does anyone know how to take the curl out of the seastar hydraulic hoses? They were wrapped up in circles with tie wraps and seem to have taken a set. They seem to be a hard plastic material. I can stretch them out and then try a little heat from a heat gun.
If I was going to try I would put them in a big pot (washtub or something) of low rolling boiling water. This will soften the plastic up in a few minutes and it's a more uniform heat than trying with a heat gun. Keep the ends out. Or just dip the area you want to bend in the pot. When you think it's hot enough to bend without cracking see if it will stay without bending back into place. It's a gamble messing with old cables. I hope this helps.



cvincent
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by cvincent » Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:03 pm

Try placing them in a black garbage bag and leaving out in the sun for 1/2 hour or so.
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thb
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by thb » Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:14 am

Hi all,

The hoses are actually baystar nylon hoses from what I have researched. They are brand new but were curled up inside the box by the factory. Nothing in the installation manual on how to deal with this. They say to support them every 2 ft. Good luck trying to do that inside a 2 inch conduit. The hot water trick I read about but have not tried yet. The hang them straight trick is kind of what I am doing. I have them tired off at each end of my 16 ft canoe. Installed brass lifting handles on each end of the canoe to tie them to. The black garbage bag trick should be worth trying. Having them stretched out on the canoe the curl is starting to come out. I will try heat gun again while they are stretched out. The heat gun seemed to help the other day when I had the cables wrapped around the fs17.

I got the first coat of paint on the inside surfaces of the boat yesterday. Have not painted the sides or gunnel supports yet. It is starting to look pretty good, IMHO.

I also got the fuel hose access panel installed with 5200 and two screws. Got it painted as well.

This is going to be a workboat ( 20 ft ) type of finish. Most of the horizontal surfaces including the deck will be coated with Kiwi grip. I love that stuff and how it feels on your knees and feet. The tan color interior is with interlux. It will take at least 2 coats maybe more. More painting today and then some light sanding of the first coat.

I also got the shop a little cleaned up and organized. Put together the bimini top but can't figure out where to mount it until interior is painted and kiwi gripped.

Some photos.

Regards
Tom
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OrangeQuest
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by OrangeQuest » Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:54 am

Your boat is really coming together nicely!

Here is a very crazy idea: Run the hoses in a 2" pipe and either apply steam to one end with the pipe at an angle upward so the steam travels from one end to the other. with the ends hanging out so they don't get moisture in them. Even if the pipe is a lot shorter than the hoses you can slowly pull the hoses through so most of the hoses are exposed to the steam.

Told you it was crazy! :lol:
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pee wee
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by pee wee » Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:53 am

thb wrote:
Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:14 am
They say to support them every 2 ft. Good luck trying to do that inside a 2 inch conduit.
I'd assume that putting it inside a conduit would qualify as continuous support, if you ran it in the open it would need support every 2 feet.
Hank

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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by Bogieman » Mon Feb 11, 2019 11:14 am

Wow! Very nice.

piperdown
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by piperdown » Thu May 02, 2019 11:05 am

How's the build going Tom?
Eric (aka, piperdown)

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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by GuyP » Thu May 02, 2019 1:45 pm

Looking GREAT 👍

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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by thb » Mon Jun 17, 2019 7:16 am

It has been a few months now since anything substantial done on my build. Last week I sanded the inside first coat of interlux to remove a few runs. I realized I did not have enough paint to do subsequent coats. Another quart of hatteras white should arrive today.

I installed the jackplate and sealed the bolt to transom interface. My 5200 took a bit of convincing to get out of the cartridge. I think I will be better off with small tubes in the future rather than a caulk gun size. I plan on double nutting the bolts just for insurance. I have heavy duty aluminum backing plates made by power lift for the inside surfaces. I had to power up the jack plate and run it up to get the two lower bolts installed. Works like a champ.

Have give a lot of thought in the past several months to the routing of all the clap trap from the console area to the transom. i think my two existing chase tubes will not be enough. Only one chase tube has a curve in it at the console end to guide the cables, tubing and wiring to the rear. The other chase tube is the main drain from the bow to the stern and it has a 90 deg fitting at the console hull level. This chase will not allow smooth bends so using it for hydraulic steering hoses and shift and throttle control cables is out of the question.

I may have to get out my skill saw and cut channels in the floor from the console to the motor well area for additional 2 inch chase pipes. Obviously not something I wish to do but may have to. Like most things it probably seems a bigger problem than it really is. Maybe I should bite the bullet and start cutting, then patch the floor up. What do you all think????

My hydraulic baystar steering hoses have been stretched out for 6 months and I see no improvement. They still have preset curves in them. PITA.

All for now.
Tom in Steinhatchee

fallguy1000
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Re: FS17 in Steinhatchee

Post by fallguy1000 » Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:23 am

We had another guy here cut with a skilsaw and he had to go back and reglass it all. Most riggers say everything can fit through a 2" chase tube.
My boat build is here -------->

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