Eric's C21

Power Boats only. Please include the boat type in your question.
Post Reply
Fuzz
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 2152
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
Location: Kasilof, Alaska

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Fuzz » Tue Mar 07, 2017 10:00 pm

When I have one of those days I always think back to one of my worst days and compare it to that. 99.9% of the time it doe not even come close so it rates "it is just a thang, from CapeMan" Hard to compete with explosion, fire, and abandon ship :wink:



User avatar
bateau-webmaster
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 812
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:02 am
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Location: Nowhere in particular
Contact:

Re: Eric's C21

Post by bateau-webmaster » Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:47 am

Two points on the formica spreader idea. (not a bad idea) depending on the formica thickness, you may want to back it with something thick but flexible. (I'm imagining .5mm formica, like you see on a countertop or so, correct me if I'm wrong here) The other thing is that the formica has a very stiff rigid edge, which you would want to round over a bit, otherwise it will give you those little hard edge lines where the spreader hangs up on any of the surface it catches momentarily and "jumps". Other than that, this looks relatively smooth, but then I can't see the surface too well from the photo.

Sorry to hear about your day of frustration. Need a case of boat building beer for days like those.
Cracker Larry wrote:Build on 8)
Jamie Fisk
Order Desk, Webmaster
Boat Builder Central, Bateau

Eric1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 1034
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:17 pm
Location: Spartanburg,S.C.

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Eric1 » Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:57 pm

bateau-webmaster wrote:
Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:47 am
Two points on the formica spreader idea. (not a bad idea) depending on the formica thickness, you may want to back it with something thick but flexible. (I'm imagining .5mm formica, like you see on a countertop or so, correct me if I'm wrong here) The other thing is that the formica has a very stiff rigid edge, which you would want to round over a bit, otherwise it will give you those little hard edge lines where the spreader hangs up on any of the surface it catches momentarily and "jumps". Other than that, this looks relatively smooth, but then I can't see the surface too well from the photo.

Sorry to hear about your day of frustration. Need a case of boat building beer for days like those.
Hey Jamie,

Thanks for the input and you are spot on the formica. I think leaving a 3/8" to 1/2' overhang would have netted better results as well.
I did notice the I had a very light streaking effect and rounding the edge would have most likely corrected this.

Today has been much smoother and the cuss factor has been 0% :) :) :)
I sanded what looked terrible to me yesterday and found it was not all that bad. Chaulk it up to my mindset yesterday.
I sanded out the previous fill and took a few photos. I still had some definite lows, some very light lows and pinholes.

Image

This is midway on the boat. You can see the blue guide coat peeking through.
Thank You Tom! I like this technique.

Image

This is where I used the last bit yesterday at the bow.
I basically just knock the highs off as there is plenty of fill left to do.

Image

Eric1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 1034
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:17 pm
Location: Spartanburg,S.C.

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Eric1 » Wed Mar 08, 2017 4:26 pm

Trying to figure the best way to apply very light coat(s) of Q.F.. I decided to go back and use these.

Image

I mixed a 30 gram batch (21:9) of quick fair and applied it to the lows.
By using the drywall tools I could fill in the shallowest low spots and pinholes.
I think this is the way to go. Smaller batches and using these to only fill the lows.

Image

Midway where Blue guide was peeking through.

Image

Used the rest here.

Image

I think I'm on track with this stuff now. I have to see the results and modify my approach until I'm happy.
Being my first build there has been a lot of trial, error and correction. It does start to make sense after a bit of that.

Jeff
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 1879
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:17 pm
Location: Vero Beach

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Jeff » Wed Mar 08, 2017 7:23 pm

Nice Eric, looks like a good method!! Jeff

User avatar
bateau-webmaster
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 812
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:02 am
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Location: Nowhere in particular
Contact:

Re: Eric's C21

Post by bateau-webmaster » Thu Mar 09, 2017 8:23 am

8) Glad you are getting the hang of it! Just remember that the texture can throw off your eye, and after you have worked yourself till you're blue in the face applying and sanding the quickfair as smooth as you can get it, it will still look like it isn't quite fair in spots, and that's when you want to prime, so that you can see everything in a uniform color, the minor details really pop out at you then, and become easier to touch up with the quickfair.
Cracker Larry wrote:Build on 8)
Jamie Fisk
Order Desk, Webmaster
Boat Builder Central, Bateau

Eric1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 1034
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:17 pm
Location: Spartanburg,S.C.

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Eric1 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 11:09 am

Hey Jamie,
Thanks for the tips! Here is what I discussed on the phone with you.
The goal here is to maximize use of Quick Fair and reduce sanding.
First I measure the distance between the strakes. It was 10.375". Next I cut a piece of 1/16" g10 fiberglass to 3.375 x 10.25".
Image

Next I inverted a sanding block with #220 grit paper and flat sanded the working edge.
Image

After I got a nice flat surface, I beveled the edge at 20 degree or so. I had my friend Marc hole this for the picture. Just overhand the edge around 1/2" hold it down with one have and sand with the other.
Image

I mixed a 60 gram batch of Quick Fair and went to work. First I would spread a line out about a foot or so with a plastic spatula. This kinda lays a base for the g10 spatula. Once the surface is filled with the base coat, the g10 is used to evenly spread the compound into the lows.
Image

To the naked eye this first looks as fair as the second coat did on the last surface. I may have a winner here. We'll see after sanding this out. It is my hope to go directly to the metal spatula technique after sanding this application. 8)

cape_fisherman
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 105
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:04 pm
Location: Mount Pleasant, SC

Re: Eric's C21

Post by cape_fisherman » Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:05 pm

I'm trying to catch up my reading here, but I can't find if you said why you added the strakes before fairing the bottom. Was there a reason for that?

Eric1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 1034
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:17 pm
Location: Spartanburg,S.C.

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Eric1 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:14 pm

Finished first coat on surface between the strakes. Had a tiny bit left over so I used it on the third surface.

Image

I sprayed a guide coat on opposite side panels. I decided to fair these again. This time with Quick Fair.
The boat doesn't have to be perfect but I have to like what I see.

Image

Image

I'm tired, I'm going home.

Eric1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 1034
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:17 pm
Location: Spartanburg,S.C.

Re: Eric's C21

Post by Eric1 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:19 pm

cape_fisherman wrote:
Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:05 pm
I'm trying to catch up my reading here, but I can't find if you said why you added the strakes before fairing the bottom. Was there a reason for that?
Yes, I did it because I used foam for the strakes. That had to be covered in fiberglass. It is my understand that you should never glass over fairing compound. I would not do it again.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest