FS18

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fishgitr
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FS18

Post by fishgitr » Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:35 pm

I just began building the FS18. I was wonder two things.

1. How wide are the stringers apart?

2. How wide and long should I build the strong back?


Thanks everyone



K2FS18
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Re: FS18

Post by K2FS18 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:46 pm

stringers are about 24" wide. You can check your stations (bulk heads, forms, called several things) for the cutout location.

I made my strong backs 24" wide outside and 14' long.

fishgitr
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Re: FS18

Post by fishgitr » Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:54 pm

Unless I over looked it in the plans, I didn't see the dimensions.

Dutch1
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Re: FS18

Post by Dutch1 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 8:44 pm

fishgitr wrote:Unless I over looked it in the plans, I didn't see the dimensions.
I built my strongback 15ft long and it worked perfectly for attaching all of the stations 30" apart. My advice is that you stop what you are doing and read the plans and the instructions over and over again. And, then again. I did, and still messed up a few times.

K2 is right. The width for the stringers are only shown on one station (E) on the plans but the measurement for the depth of the stringers is wrong. You will have to cut/notch it lower. Don't use the 3/8's. Look at my build post and you will see a pic of what I'm talking about. I had to lower the notches for the stringers.

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Re: FS18

Post by Dutch1 » Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:23 pm

There are also a lot of good details on this site. Bayport_Bob created it years ago when he built his and it is a good site to review.

http://www.wetconcepts.com/FS18.htm

seaslug
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Re: FS18

Post by seaslug » Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:46 pm

The stringer dimensions and notch locations are on plan page D279/3. Stringers are 4" so make the corresponding notches in your frames 4". Frame E shows 12" from the center line to the outside edge of stringer, making the stringers 24" outside to outside. Mark and cut all the frames After the stringers are filleted and glassed you'll have to nip off the bottom corners where you cut your notch so the frames will slide down far enough, just leaving the required small gap between the frames and the hull. I made my strong back 24" wide 23" tall, and 179" long. The length worked so frame A sat right at the end of the strong back, with the bow hanging over giving easy access underneath for shaping the rounded chine bow using the PVC pipe method I learned from Bayport Bob's Wet Concepts build thread. I highly recommend using the PVC pieces, it works great for the entire stitching process. Good luck with your build, it's an amazing boat, you'll love it. By the way, I built the low sheer version, than lowered the sheer an additional 3" at the stern to zero at the bow. Mike

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Re: FS18

Post by TomW1 » Thu Dec 01, 2016 4:35 pm

Seaslug I have a little bit of a problem with your recommendation of making the slots in the frames 4" since the stringers are 4" tall also. While I don't have the FS18 plans I do have 6 other plans. Taking the FS18 and assuming that the deck will sit on the stringers and the frames, you will be cutting through the frames if you cut 4" notches in the frames. Normally in my other plans the notches are cut partially through the stringer and partially through the frame. This allows the deck to set down flat on both the stringers and the frames.

Correct me if I'm wrong please. :help: CL maybe you can provide some insight.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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Cracker Larry
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Re: FS18

Post by Cracker Larry » Thu Dec 01, 2016 4:57 pm

Seaslug is correct. In the FS18 you do not notch the stringers.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Re: FS18

Post by TomW1 » Fri Dec 02, 2016 7:06 pm

Good enough 8)
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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