LM18 in Perry, GA

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Jwhitakeriii
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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by Jwhitakeriii » Tue Jul 31, 2018 5:34 pm

pee wee wrote:
Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:13 pm
Check your stringer spacing to see if maybe inside face/outside face dimension is right.
I but all the frames at 36" on center as the plan didn't really describe exactly say. The picture doesn't really show them on center (D and E are short of 36" OC and A/B are farther? Do you think it is meant to be 36 on center by how it is drawn. My frame measurements are good I'm wondering if I just didn't bow the curves on the bottom of the frames up enough? I placed the 5/8 mark on the bend of B at 10.5" based on the B drawing
Capt UB wrote:
Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:25 pm
Frame B, stringer is 3.25", frame not cut deep enough.
I looked at that but my BL line is correct and the total height is correct so the only way to make it deeper would be to extend up that bend or slide forward to get to where stringer starts to taper down more... Thoughts?



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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:30 pm

Please do not post copies of my drawings. I will answer questions but is this about the stringers and frames not being perfectly flush?

The plans are based on a 3D model that is accurate within 10/1000". The dimensions are given with a precision of 1/8". If someone can cut plywood with that precision, it still leaves a maximum deviation of 2*1/8= 1/4" and that is fine with this building method.
Errors can come from cutting, or strongbacks that are not level but all that does not have to be more accurate than what I see in the pictures except maybe in one spot.
At this stage of the build (jig setup), more precision is not required.
It is the hull panels that define the shape of the hull, not the framing.
The framing (jig) will support the panels and help guarantee what is important in the hull shape: a straight planing surface and a nice looking bow.

Wait until the inside fiberglass is done! You will have to cut material from the stringers and frames to go over the fiberglass seams.

You can try to fair the framing but I would not do it. If you do it, use fairing batten but why? You will not fasten the hull panels to that jig, the panels must float freely to be fair.
If you want to trim something, work on the frame notches. Check your stringers for fairness. Do not cut a fair stringer down. If the stringers bottoms out in all notches except one or touches the bottom of a notch in one frame and not the other, then you know where the problem is.

Thousands of boats have been built that way, it works. I would agree if there was a large difference but this is minor and can be corrected with some small adjustments if you care.
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Jwhitakeriii
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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by Jwhitakeriii » Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:50 pm

sorry for sharing pictures of the drawings, I specifically cut parts off so no one could pirate the dimension but this is my first build and I don't know what is acceptable or not. also with this being a relatively new design without many being built yet I wasn't sure if the kinks in the plans were fully worked out.
Your earlier response
jacquesmm wrote:
Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:16 pm
The whole thing should be flush, nothing sticking out.
suggested that it might not be in acceptable tolerances. Thanks for your help I will continue to press on

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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by jacquesmm » Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:23 pm

Feel free to post drawings with dimensions removed or blurred.
What is strange is that one builder had the opposite problem, with a stringer too deep instead of sticking out.
Check what I wrote about the notches first: does the stringer touch or is close everywhere? If not post.
Another test is with a fairing batten on the frames. Does something stick out or is there a dip?
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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by jacquesmm » Wed Aug 01, 2018 12:17 pm

One more thing: it should be flush but it does not matter may look like conflicting statements but they are not.
it does not matter if there is a little difference there because the hull shape comes from the panels but as a designer, I am annoyed. I see those parts perfectly flush in my model. The dimensions are correct and therefore, they should be flush. When they aren't, I would love to know why. This problem happens from time to time on different designs but most builders get a flush surface there.
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LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by Jwhitakeriii » Wed Aug 01, 2018 12:48 pm

Stiching going together good. Looks like my side and bottom panels are going to meet up the same way colemanfires lm18 did with that weird point. I'm going to play with it more, trim the bow mold down and see what I can do but right now my pipe puter inner and ziptie hander are hungry and ready for a nap :D . I'm hungry too... And could use a nap but no time for that
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Jwhitakeriii
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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by Jwhitakeriii » Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:49 pm

Little too tight or ok?
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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by jacquesmm » Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:15 pm

I don't use stitches, I use straps but what you did looks fine. Labor-intensive but it looks good and fair.
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Re: LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by Fuzz » Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:38 pm

Having those super helpers to do the work under the boat must be worth its weight in gold :D
Rounded chines is a lot of work but it sure looks nice.

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LM18 in Perry, GA

Post by Jwhitakeriii » Wed Aug 01, 2018 7:03 pm

So I ended up trimming the bow mold pretty heavily and got everything stiched up tight. Mine has the same bump Coleman fire had where the side panel and bottom panels meet. I spoke to Reid and the says they are checking that measurement to be sure it was correct but I should be able to do the same thing he did and fill with epoxy glue and sand. Sure was nice having a little guy feeding that ziptie back through and placing the pipe. Someone recommended cutting the strong back at the bow for Access and that was a huge timesaver. Also thanks to who recommended the tape on the frames. I can imagine that if that step was missed you might as well start over. I see what Colemanfire meant when he said his hands were cramping
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