Panga 20 Build

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TomTom
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by TomTom » Wed Jun 17, 2020 4:18 pm

Do Gemlux sell rubber plugs too?

I have always found I ended up plugging the scuppers most of the time at sea and letting a bilge pump do the work and then taking them out on the mooring - I have yet to find a scupper system that really works well so excited to hear your thoughts on these ones ...



joe2700
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by joe2700 » Wed Jun 17, 2020 9:55 pm

Since the scuppers are just thru hulls with an insert you could just screw one of their ball valves on to each one. I am using the same scuppers and will initially install without a valve/stopper. If I find water comes in while the boat is loaded I plan to just add a ball valve to each one I can close when under way.

FluidDynamic
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by FluidDynamic » Thu Jun 18, 2020 8:49 am

Gemlux does not make a plug that i'm aware of. I was going to use something like the picture below. I thought about putting a ball valve in as well, but would rather not have to open the bilge when I want to unplug them.
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Rover1
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by Rover1 » Sun Jun 21, 2020 1:08 pm

Very cool build!
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FluidDynamic
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by FluidDynamic » Thu Jul 09, 2020 3:03 pm

I'm a little concerned with separation between my gunnel cleats, frames, and gunnel cap. I may be overthinking this, but I want to make sure that i never have any issues in the future. I have installed my frames above the sole and placed the cleats along the frames and gunnel. I used system three gel magic for the glue and plan on using the same for the gunnel cap adhesion to the cleats. Once the gunnel cap is on I plan to place biaxial over the radius connecting the deck to the coaming pad and also over the radius connecting the gunnel cap to the rub rail. See left drawing on attachment. Will this be sufficient or can I place an additional layer of biaxial between the cleats and the gunnel cap as shown in the drawing on the right? Would this even add any strength or will the cap hold all of the cleats together?
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jacquesmm
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by jacquesmm » Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:18 pm

I don't see the inwale (sheer clamp) in there. You can skip it if the gunwale sits on top of the rubrail.
Look at the drawing named details. It shows how I propose to build the gunwale.
There are 5 perspective views, step by step.
Built that way, you do not need any fiberglass there.
There is another drawing on that sheet showing how the cap goes over the sheer clamp and over the rubrail.

I guess that you prefer to cover it with glass but that does not mean that you can omit the sheer clamp or the coaming cleat.
Maybe it is present and not included in your sketch? Those cleats are more important than any fiberglass covering.
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FluidDynamic
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by FluidDynamic » Thu Jul 09, 2020 9:53 pm

It was a bad drawing. I installed as per plans. I guess I was thinking a layer of biaxial would tie the frame cleats and inwhale shear clamps together. If its not needed, then I'll leave it out.
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20200709_204932.jpg

Dan_Smullen
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by Dan_Smullen » Sat Jul 11, 2020 2:26 pm

Doesn't seem like it will hurt anything to tab from the rub rail to the inwale with a tab as wide as the cleat at the top of the frame. That will create some tension to hold things more soundly.

Also, I suppose a layer on the bottom of the deck will act the same as a tab once glued to the cleats, rubrail and inwale.

I appreciate your thinking. Other than time and materials, I can't see a detriment to over engineering this part of the boat.

fallguy1000
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by fallguy1000 » Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:13 pm

No need for that. Just make sure your cap is epoxy sealed and sanded with 40-60 grit before you glue it down into thickened epoxy and make sure the base is also precoated to avoid drysuck. Make sure the glue consistency is decent and coverage good.

The only reason to use biaxial in that seam would be if you are bolting two areas together. Or bomting the cap down. A bolt drives out the bonding material and so 1708 is used instead of thickened epoxy to avoid squeezing out all the bonding material.

You may have seen a cracked gunnel cap here on the forums, but that was an entirely different set of issues caused in part by cutting down the frames on the hullsides too far for rod holding. It was not caused by flex in the joint you mentioned.

Build on!
My boat build is here -------->

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FluidDynamic
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Re: Panga 20 Build

Post by FluidDynamic » Sat Jul 11, 2020 10:53 pm

Ready for gunnel deck.
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