FS18 on the double!

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Jacky Chan
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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Jacky Chan » Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:01 am

Thanks for the responses everybody, definitely going to be giving the seams plenty of tape, with the off-set overlap as per the schedule.

I will chuck up a load more photos so that people dont have to click into all the links i put on earlier - its the little things!
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If this works then its quite a bit easier than the previous method of going through Flickr! :oops: Thanks Jeff and Reid!!



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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Jacky Chan » Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:27 am

Quick query - I see the rubrail specified 3 layers of 6mm ply. I think I can get my hands on some 12mm teak, so what I am wondering is whether the rubrail will still be just as strong if I replace the outer TWO layers of the 6mm ply with a strip of 12mm teak, or whether I have to have two layers of ply (12mm) plus the teak?

Maybe teak is so weak that I would still three layers of ply underneath it, in which case I probably won't bother :lol:

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Reid » Mon Jun 10, 2019 12:12 pm

The reason for the 3 layers of the 6mm is that the 6mm is easy to bend and make a nice fluid curve. You need layers in order to offset the seams b/c it is obviously difficult to find strips of wood that are 18 feet long. I actually used 2 layers of 6mm for my rubrail and it worked out great. One tip when cutting the rubrail: trace the sheer line of the FS18 and use that to cut your rubrail. Don't try and rip straight pieces of plywood or hardwood and apply it to the hull. It will not sit well against the hull b/c the hull has compound curves.

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by seaslug » Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:54 pm

It can be a little stiff bending hardwood around the sheer, but with enough clamps it can be done on most boats without having to cut the strips to the curve of the sheer. I ripped 1/4"-3/8" x 1 1/2" strips of fir or Cedar for 2 or 3 layers, than used some extremely hard Maple for the outer and last layer on my FS18. It was 3/8" x 1 1/2" and bent just fine with very little effort. The bend is not very extreme on this boat. I did the same thing on the FS14, SK14, and GF16 with only the extreme curve of the FS14 being a real struggle. So Reid, if you ever hear a loud pop coming from the warehouse, it's probably the rub rail on my FS14 finally letting go. Actually I'm blown away by the strength of the epoxy, because I really struggled to get that bend at the bow. Mike

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Jacky Chan » Tue Jun 11, 2019 4:11 am

Thanks Reid - good point about the compound curves - ideally I would have transferred the shape when it was flat :roll: but I could always clamp a piece to the hull, mark it from inside and go from there.

Hopefully the teak will flex enough to take the compound curves, as with the cedar and maple in seaslug's various creations 8) . If not then I could probably score the inside to help it around the corner. Got to say Mike, it was stumbling across a picture of your FS18 that started me off on this little adventure, so thanks for that! I am shamelessly "borrowing" a few of the design features if you dont mind (imitation being the sincerest form of flattery!) At least my boat will be in the U.K so they probably wont be pulling alongside the same jetty any time soon :lol:

I've got a friend who's a lot better at woodwork than me booked in to help me with some homemade hatches in a couple of months so that should get interesting/challenging..! :help:

So it looks like 2 layers of 6mm ply + 12mm teak is the way to go, with the joints nicely offset, especially the single teak joint on each side. I could get 6mm teak but then it would only be 32mm wide (1 1/4"). Sounds like I'll need a couple more proper clamps too!

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Jacky Chan » Tue Jun 11, 2019 4:13 am

Another quick one if anyone is around - if you are going to put graphite+epoxy on the bottom of the hull, should you prime underneath after fairing or go straight to the graphite then prime the sides? CHeers

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Aripeka Angler » Tue Jun 11, 2019 6:47 am

Jacky Chan wrote:
Tue Jun 11, 2019 4:13 am
Another quick one if anyone is around - if you are going to put graphite+epoxy on the bottom of the hull, should you prime underneath after fairing or go straight to the graphite then prime the sides? CHeers
Nice looking work. :D
It doesn’t matter if you prime under the epoxy/graphite or apply the mixture directly to your faired hull.
Either method will work fine.
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Jacky Chan » Wed Jun 12, 2019 4:35 am

Cheers Aripeka Angler, I also thoroughly enjoyed reading your thread too - I'll have to put Cape Sable on my destination bucket list :wink:

I took a day off work yesterday to get the seams on, and was flying along putting a radius on the edges when I hit a big lump of epoxy and PING!! the blade on my surform snapped off! A couple of muttered oaths later and I was in the car going off to speak to the lumberyard chap about the teak and to see if, on the off chance, that had a replacement blade (£3 as opposed to a new surform at £15). Amazingly they did! I couldn't believe my luck, drove home a happy bunny, a bit late in the day but still just enough time to get the seams on and wet out if I dont hang about. I get home, take the new blade out of the packet and see its got a bit of a kink at one end... so I apply a little pressure to straighten it, aaaaand you guessed it.. PING!! a chunk of it hits the roof and I've got another broken surform blade in my hand... :x :x :x :lol:

They must be very high carbon steel! Lesson learnt - surform blades are to be treated like newborn babies!

So i've managed to wangle this afternoon instead to try and get the seams on before getting the cloth down tomorrow - we've got a ton of people coming round for a toddler bbq on sunday and I need it cured hard by then if its going to survive being prodded by children and being used as a bar by their parents! 8)

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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by Jacky Chan » Fri Jun 14, 2019 6:08 am

Put a shift in over the past two days after getting another surform blade... got the seams down (should have used a foam roller, quite a few little bubbles) and then yesterday the main biaxial cloth over the whole lot, which went down under a roller and then some ebay peel ply. Cant see how "real" peel ply can be much better - this stuff really seems to have shaved about 5 days of hellish sanding and fairing off the build :D 8)

I think its all gone well, though obviously I've never done one of these before so lets see what its like in 12 months time!

Got my father to mix most of the epoxy so the the main cloth took about 4-5 hours inc peel ply. We wet it out in 6 sections (a la Cracker Larry's build thread), putting the peel ply on after each one. The first section at the transom didnt get that much of a scrape but all the other ones all got a good going over with the painter's edge to really flatten things out and remove any excess epoxy.

I ripped all the peel ply off this morning and frankly it really doesn't look like its going to need much attention - i'm planning on sanding down the tiny imperfections where the peel ply sheets met, then skimming over some filler epoxy, quick sand with a long board and then move onto graphite and paint (oh and rubrail! Going for Iroko, much cheaper even than the mates-rates teak)
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Re: FS18 on the double!

Post by OrangeQuest » Fri Jun 14, 2019 6:57 am

Looking really good!!

The blade that broke twice, you should stock a few extras so when one breaks you have a spare so work continues. I also pick up a few "extra" things when I make a trip to the lumber yard or hardware store. Blades and sand paper are a few of the things to can't have to much of. :D
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