Fs14 ls

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Reklus
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Fs14 ls

Post by Reklus » Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:34 am

Hey to everyone not sure if this should be here or in build thread but im Colton... down near corpus christi texas ... got the fs14 ls cnc on order (amazing customer service btw) guess ill be building a little skiff with my 12yr old son .... should be interesting .


After reviewing plans i downloaded i already have a good deal of but one in particular...
- what dimensions did any on you who built this boat use on the strongback framing ... say 8' but 10 or 12 are optional ... also curious as to the most comfortable or best working height?

- i look forward to getting started and apologize in advance for all of the questions and ignorance that i imagine will follow but know that it is greatly appreciated!
Colton



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OrangeQuest
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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by OrangeQuest » Thu Jun 20, 2019 9:17 am

Welcome to the forum and there are no bad questions.

The working height needs to be comfortable for you to reach the center of the boat and since you will be helping a 12 year old build it you would also want it comfortable for him, even it is means a short step bench. A lot of builder also put heavy duty casters on the strong back to move it around easily but can be locked so you don't chase after your work when sanding and such. The FS14 and FS14 LS are some of the most popular builds it seems like so you will get a lot of support.

There are also quiet a few Dad's that do this with their offspring. Even one Dad with all girls that as they get old enough each one of them have built their own boats, with Dad's help. :)

Need to add a name to your build thread so we all know which FS 14ls is being built and don't forget we all like lots of pictures!!

Good luck and enjoy the adventure,
OQ
AKA: Ken J
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

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Capt UB
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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by Capt UB » Thu Jun 20, 2019 11:20 am

Reklus wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:34 am
Hey to everyone not sure if this should be here or in build thread but im Colton... down near corpus christi texas ... got the fs14 ls cnc on order (amazing customer service btw) guess ill be building a little skiff with my 12yr old son .... should be interesting .


After reviewing plans i downloaded i already have a good deal of but one in particular...
- what dimensions did any on you who built this boat use on the strongback framing ... say 8' but 10 or 12 are optional ... also curious as to the most comfortable or best working height?

- i look forward to getting started and apologize in advance for all of the questions and ignorance that i imagine will follow but know that it is greatly appreciated!
Colton
Welcome to the madness....

The FS14 LS is a great boat and fun build. I did the FS14 standard with a cockpit deck/sole, no center bench and lowered the foredeck.

Strongback I used,

2x6's on saw horses.
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Last edited by Capt UB on Thu Jun 20, 2019 12:01 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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piperdown
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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by piperdown » Thu Jun 20, 2019 11:23 am

The height of my strongback/table was set at 36", but that was to make it comfortable when first building (the GF16 is built just a little different than other JM designed). Real easy to work on the sides and front/back transom, not so easy now to work on the hull bottom. I used, like OQ said, castors so I could roll it in and out of my garage.

Basically, at this point, since the entire outside is fiberglassed and the rubrails are on, I plan on rebuilding my table to shorten it, about 14' for a 16' boat and lower it down to about 18". That will make it easier to work on the hull bottom and interior when I flip it.

Play around with the height a bit. I'd get a 2x4 and look at what the height would be adding the the height of the frames and see how comfortable it would be to work on. For example if the height of the frame is 24" (random number) and you add 18" for the overall height of the strongback, does 42" feel like it would be comfortable to work on the sides or hull bottom. Adjust until it seems would work for you and your son.

BTW, very cool you and your son are building it together! :D My boys (all slightly older) will help me work on cars but want nothing to do with the boat, except already asking if they could use it when it's done :lol:
Eric (aka, piperdown)

"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain

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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by Reklus » Tue Jun 25, 2019 9:55 pm

Alright ... off like a herd of turtles ... so a few questions already ...
1. Plans say assemble transom layers ... not sure where to find this or the best method so if someone could show me where or tell me how that would be super helpful. ... also my nesting shows 2 transoms and a"deck aft" not sure what that is....
2. On the stringer butt blocks ... does it matter if they are on the inside (center) or outside
3. Is it ok to temp screw the frames to the strongback uprights?
...So little progress so many questions hahaha
4. Drain holes? Says note drain holes in the instructions .. note sure what thats meaning ....

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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by Capt UB » Wed Jun 26, 2019 6:04 am

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piperdown
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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by piperdown » Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:05 am

b
Reklus wrote:
Tue Jun 25, 2019 9:55 pm
Alright ... off like a herd of turtles ... so a few questions already ...
1. Plans say assemble transom layers ... not sure where to find this or the best method so if someone could show me where or tell me how that would be super helpful. ... also my nesting shows 2 transoms and a"deck aft" not sure what that is....
2. On the stringer butt blocks ... does it matter if they are on the inside (center) or outside
3. Is it ok to temp screw the frames to the strongback uprights?
...So little progress so many questions hahaha
4. Drain holes? Says note drain holes in the instructions .. note sure what thats meaning ....
1. Cut the 2 transom pieces out, clamp together and sand a bit to make them match. Don't sand too much just enough so they are the same size. Unclamp. Put a sheet of plastic down on the floor larger than the transom will be. Epoxy won't stick to the plastic so you don't glue the transom to the floor :D
Mix up a small batch of epoxy to the correct ratio pre-coat the transom pieces that will be glued together. The wood will absorb the epoxy and you don't want dry spots for the next step.
Mix up a little more epoxy and add wood flour (or silica) a little at a time until it's about as thick as peanut butter. Spread the thickened epoxy on one of the 2 transom pieces with a notched trowel (I use a V notched trowel).
Place the other transom piece with the pre-coated face on the transom piece that has the thickened epoxy and weight it down with anything handy. You don't want too much squeeze out (unlike wood glue where you clamp with high pressure), just enough so that the epoxy oozes out a bit. Some of use drill a few holes in the transom pieces and use wood dowels to keep the panels aligned.
Take a look at this link in the how to section http://bateau2.com/howto/boat_in_box/assembly.php

The diagram, I'm assuming, is showing the nesting on the plywood. JM trys to be very efficient with using plywood so one sheet will have the 2 pieces of the transom and the aft deck cut from it.

2. Not sure, the boat I'm building doesn't use butt blocks. It should be indicated on the plans somewhere though.

3. Yes, using temp screws is okay

4. drain holes are used to channel water, usually to the transom where there is a drain plug to let the water out or where a bilge pump can pump the water out.

Here's a good FS14 build (in addition to Capt UB's) viewtopic.php?t=12126
Eric (aka, piperdown)

"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain

Reklus
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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by Reklus » Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:29 am

piperdown wrote:
Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:05 am
b
Reklus wrote:
Tue Jun 25, 2019 9:55 pm
Alright ... off like a herd of turtles ... so a few questions already ...
1. Plans say assemble transom layers ... not sure where to find this or the best method so if someone could show me where or tell me how that would be super helpful. ... also my nesting shows 2 transoms and a"deck aft" not sure what that is....
2. On the stringer butt blocks ... does it matter if they are on the inside (center) or outside
3. Is it ok to temp screw the frames to the strongback uprights?
...So little progress so many questions hahaha
4. Drain holes? Says note drain holes in the instructions .. note sure what thats meaning ....
1. Cut the 2 transom pieces out, clamp together and sand a bit to make them match. Don't sand too much just enough so they are the same size. Unclamp. Put a sheet of plastic down on the floor larger than the transom will be. Epoxy won't stick to the plastic so you don't glue the transom to the floor :D
Mix up a small batch of epoxy to the correct ratio pre-coat the transom pieces that will be glued together. The wood will absorb the epoxy and you don't want dry spots for the next step.
Mix up a little more epoxy and add wood flour (or silica) a little at a time until it's about as thick as peanut butter. Spread the thickened epoxy on one of the 2 transom pieces with a notched trowel (I use a V notched trowel).
Place the other transom piece with the pre-coated face on the transom piece that has the thickened epoxy and weight it down with anything handy. You don't want too much squeeze out (unlike wood glue where you clamp with high pressure), just enough so that the epoxy oozes out a bit. Some of use drill a few holes in the transom pieces and use wood dowels to keep the panels aligned.
Take a look at this link in the how to section http://bateau2.com/howto/boat_in_box/assembly.php

The diagram, I'm assuming, is showing the nesting on the plywood. JM trys to be very efficient with using plywood so one sheet will have the 2 pieces of the transom and the aft deck cut from it.

2. Not sure, the boat I'm building doesn't use butt blocks. It should be indicated on the plans somewhere though.

3. Yes, using temp screws is okay

4. drain holes are used to channel water, usually to the transom where there is a drain plug to let the water out or where a bilge pump can pump the water out.

Here's a good FS14 build (in addition to Capt UB's) viewtopic.php?t=12126
Thanks for the reply... and ill apologize now for ignorance and inexperience ... you guys do amazing work and your and experience are likely what will get me through this ... so know your help is greatly appreciated .... pretty sure my son learned a few new "phrases" yesterday evening so things are going well hahaha

1. Well thats how i was gonna do it but decided best to wait for a reply hahaha glad im at least kinda on track ... and i just wanted to make sure on the piece bc it looks identical to the transom pcs ...

2 ive checked the plans again and maybe im just missing it so ill look again ... my gut says it doesnt matter but being this is the first boat id hate to screw it up before i even really get started

3. Ty

4. I must have worded that crummy ... it says note the drain holes ... but there are not any -- i imagine this can be done after flipping it and it is to builder pref w regard to plans ... just making certain im not missing anything... aga

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by OrangeQuest » Wed Jun 26, 2019 9:51 am

We all have been in your shoes, ask all the questions you want, no one on the forum judges you for it. Be sure and post pictures as you go and good luck.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

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Re: Fs14 ls

Post by Netpackrat » Wed Jun 26, 2019 9:55 am

Now is also a very good time to instill in your son good safety habits in terms of using PPE to protect himself from the epoxy.

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