CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Sail Boats 15' and up. Please include the boat type in your question.
User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Mon Oct 21, 2013 11:10 am

Mount correction 20131020

As always, try to ignore the distortions of the wide angle lense. :)

The glassed inside surfaces of the face plates are now scratched up with 100 grit and wiped clean in prep for fitting in place and squeezing into the corrective epoxy/wood flour blob spacer. Why 100 grit and not 80? THis isn't structural and I had the 100 grit right there, and the Silver tip epoxy technically doesn't even need *tooth* if the next layers is bonded within 72 hours of the previous one. No blush with this epoxy. 8)

First, wipe the mounts clean, and then apply one thin layer of overlapping clear packaging tape, thoroughly, carefully following the shape of the mount, to protect the area for the correction *blob*, so the blob won't stick to the mount area of the boat, and so the blob will fit the shape of the mount. I also pushed the tape a little into the holes so that when cured, there will be an imprint in the cured blob showing exactly where to drill the holes for the bolts.

Image9300

With the face plate screwed in place (trial run), I tested the gap that would need to be filled with the blob. I edu-guessed about 3 ounces of epoxy for the wood flour filler.

Image9301

So there is the 3 ounces and wood filler. Before mixing up the blend, I first put a thin coat of neat epoxy on the plates where the blob would make contact, since I was mixing the blend very thick, just in case any persuasion was needed to get a full and complete contact smush into the *almost too dry* blob.

Image9302

Because of the fast hardener, and the near 90°F heat, I had to work fast positioning the plate, shuffling it around, screwing it on the other side, finalizing the position, and taping in place for the cure on the blob side. It got hot fast and was immovable within 20 minutes.

Image9303

Another 3 ounces. Same thing other side, etc.

Image9304

Eyeballing it as I worked, it is close enough to straight athwartships, a little off, slightly shy of straight, but acceptable by the boss. Stare at it long enough and it will shift from perfectly straight, to one side off, and then the other, and then both, and then straight again... :lol: I recommend, however, doing this positioning ahead of time, and marking the positions with masking tape, BEFORE epoxy is mixed. I felt brave and eyeballed it this time. I don't think I would have gotten away with this a few years ago with less experience.

Image9305

The top edges are not finalized yet. They get trimmed later, along with all the edges to make them cleaner and more even. Can you hear the epoxy curing? :lol: I'm going out now to tap them off with a rubber mallet.

Image9306

The top plates will take some thinking first, but will be easily doable thanks to the gap filling epoxy. :)



User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:11 pm

some delays. putting final glass on 'em now before cutting out the hatch openings. got pictures to follow.

User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Fri Nov 15, 2013 11:52 am

Bilge boxes 20131023

The rubber mallet needed quite a bit of swinging to get the port side released. :help: The starboard side came of much easier.

Removing the clear tape gently at a very strong angle. No need to discover paint adhesion problems by being careless pulling tape straight off foolishly.

Image9309

The blobs are shy of the amount of material needed by a few of the holes that need to be drilled. I will smush more in now to build it up evenly to support all hole drilling.

Image9310

One can barely see the indent where I pressed the clear tape into the mounting bolt holes. This will be good for helping align where the holes will be drilled.

Image9311

First picture of two of how the top plates will fit into place. Two 3/16 inch dowels will be used to align and hold them in proper position when glued. (edit: I used drywall screws and just filled the holes later). Three layers of masking will be applied to areas where the final primer and paint will build up the thickness slightly. The theory is that the box assembly will then fit neatly into place with very little gap, and the mounting holes not thrown off by the final extra thickness.

Image9313

Second picture of two of how the top plates will fit into place. Two drywall screws will be used to align and hold them in proper position when glued. Three layers of masking will be applied to areas where the final primer and paint will build up the thickness slightly. The theory is that the box assembly will then fit neatly into place with very little gap, and the mounting holes not thrown off by the final extra thickness.

Image9314

The blobs have been built up and ground *cleaner*. One can also see the mounting hole *bumps* now more plainly from this angle. I have marked the centers of them for drilling out with the low end Skil drill press (that works quite well as a low end press :) ).

Image9315

The holes are now drilled and all line up within about a sixteenth of an inch. Better than any other method. But not all of them where perfectly plumb when I first drilled the holes in the mounts by hand (many years ago). So there will be some dremel and round file tweaking ... like this ... which caused a need for lots more patience.

Image9316

... and then the fill and redrill fun. The *fill* is a natural part of the glassing as excess epoxy very near fills up the hole anyway. One side blocked with masking tape first while the other side is glassed. With a swab of epoxy in the holes first, plenty gets in there to seal the walls of the holes. I'll drill them out later with a 3/16 bit, just right for the bolts being used.


The top plate to slant plate bond is the next posting. I used deck screws in predrilled holes, and removed them after the cure. I'll add 12 oz biax on the inside fillet and fill those screw holes. Should be able to step on the top with no worries at all, and the starboard one will double as a lockable locker. More pictures to follow. :)

bondo
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 799
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:57 am

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by bondo » Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:21 pm

Always love watching your projects develop. Nice looking work as usual.

User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Fri Nov 15, 2013 5:14 pm

Thanks Bondo. :)

I've got to restate here: like so many other structures on my boat, all this is add-on modifications. The CV16 as designed is a simple and clean design, easy to build. These add-ons take time and thought, but they are very nice when everything is just where you want it, when you need it, making the build a very personal *your boat*. But the CV16 is a fine boat as it appears on the plans, simple and clean. That being said...

Bilge Boxes (lockers) 20131115

With the corrected mount blob, the fit is sweet.

Image9318 BB17

There is no support for the top plate on one side. It floats. This is to give room for tightening and loosening fittings in the box/locker for electric as it exits from under the seats, etc. So a jig was needed to establish where the top plate must be on the floating and unsupported side. Simple. Tape for *finish spacing* again. The slanted face is marked for trimming the top, and for determining where to drill holes for screws that hold the top in place during the bond.

Image9321 BB18

Using the earlier marked line on the inside surface, now it is simple to drill a hole for the bonding screws that will screw into the top plate later. Just begin the hole a little less than half the thickness of the top plate down from the marked line.

Image9324 BB19

While holding the top plate in place, drill through that hole in the slant plate, into the top plate. Why not screw right into the top plate? Because it would likely split or delaminate some plies, especially with cheaper plywood. So pre-drilling with a smaller bit first minimizes that risk. The resulting hole fits the screw *shaft* with plenty wood left for the screw *threads* to grab.

Image9325 BB20

Looks good.

Image9328 BB21

Dry run in prep for the bond. Good.

Image9327 BB22

After again putting clear packing tape in the proper places where goop might ooze out to the finished boat surfaces (don't want it to stick there!), it is time to goop it with wood flour thickened epoxy, screw it together, and weigh down the top so it fits well on the supported CB case edge. Then hurry up and wait.

Image9329 BB23

Quickly, a small fillet is formed with the oozed excess, working blind, almost. It will be cleaned up later when there is room to work on it. But it is close to what it needs to be already with this one finger smoothing.

Image9333 BB24

Next, before finishing these parts, it is time to make the perpendicular vertical plate. This could not begin until the top plate and slant face were in place, to determine the horizontal line for the forward edge of the top plate where it will rest on the vertical plate. Next post shows the vertical plate cardboard template and cutting out the vertical from the template, and more glassing and fabrication for the slant/top assembly. :)

User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:22 pm

Bilge Boxes 20131115b

Time to do the forward vertical plate that encloses the Bilge/Locker boxes.

First, rough shape the template and tape well on one edge. It has to be hinged back to unmount the glued structures that are already done. By taping it secure on one edge, as a hinge, the bolt holes will stay aligned well during all the fiddling around. Notes are made where the template is a little off, so when marking and cutting wood, those areas are easily adjusted. It takes too long to make the perfect template -- for two sides that are not exactly the same. :lol: This one template, with some notes, is good enough for both sides. :)

Image9335 BB25

One can't easily mark the screw holes on the template because the slant/top assembly is in the way. So, swing the template open to unbolt the other structures.

Image9336 BB26

Now swing it back and press a Machine screw end hard against the template to make a mark for the hole(s). The logic of the workflow made it necessary, in order to have a workable access to surfaces of the plates of such a small locker in such a tight location, with such an awkward shape. But still easy, after some thought, and with some patience to develop the proper work sequence. :)

Image9338 BB27

Parts cut, shaped to fit to existing fillets on the boat ... and first glassing.

Image9339 BB28

The slant and top assembly have nice fillets and biax now. Those smaller cleats will be bonded to the underside of the top plate(s). The top plates *sit* on the top of the vertical and are bolted to it through these cleats, making one solid box structure, fully removeable, accomplishing a very awkward shape in a tight spot, and easily removeable. Thanks to the thinking chair. :)

Image9340 BB29

Both surfaces of the vertical are now glassed and cleaned up, it gets a hole cut in its center. By glassing it first, the shape of the part is more stabilized and less subject to warping, particularly after the cut is made. Although an inspection plate is not planned, I made the cutout big enough for the small inspection plates, just in case....

Image9341 BB30

more to follow ... and with 15 pictures in the next post, it will probably jump to a new page (edit: or not! :lol: ).
Last edited by ks8 on Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:22 pm

Bilge Boxes 20131116

A second layer is made for the slant surface, drilled, and holes marked by how they have to be modified to best align with the hand drilled holes in the mounts. Then, using a larger guide, an outline is made for larger fostner bit holes, so that the mounting holes are recessed, and mounting screws have no chance to bruise, break, or otherwise shred flesh that would have hit or scraped on them.

Image9343 BB31

Fostner marks are based on where the *corrected* holes will be. Run a pencil around inside the bottle neck, and the bit mark is close to where the hole will be, close enough for lining up the bit in the drill press later.

Image9342 BB32

Ready for the drill press ($129 and worth every penny for this type of fabricating). Two layers of ply so that when the hole is cut for the hatch/door, it is still going to keep a stable shape and retain some strength.

Image9344 BB33

Is it lined up close enough? Yes.

Image9346 BB34

Well, do it. Done. Got a few more to do in this outer layer ply before it gets laminated to the rest of the structure.

Image9347 BB35

With the alignment dowels holding it in position, the upper layer now lines up its big holes in an averaged corrected center over the lower layer bolt holes. The lower layer was previously glassed, both sides, for two reasons. One - to stabilize against warping during this process. Two - so that the washers will be tightened against a glass reinforced surface in the sunk mounting hole (thinking chair stuff).

Image9349 BB36

The CB case edge holes are trickier because they are so close to the edge.

Image9355 BB37

They get rounded out in shape afterwards.

Image9360 BB38

So, lower layer, already bonded to the top plate, and glassed, and its upper edge now leveled with the surface of the top plate, is prepped to bond the upper layer to it.

Image9361 BB39

Glue it on, lightly clamp, weigh the center, and continually wipe any oozing goop (to minimize cleanup later). After about 20 minutes, no more oozing. Walk away and do something else, like seal other edges on other parts. :)

Image9364 BB40

... and like glassing the starboard side lower slanted layer ...

Image9367 BB41

Both slanted assemblies bonded and layered, its time to mark the hatch cutout on the starboard side. Tricky. Not much wood to work with. And room is needed on the inside for a backing ring against which the hatch will sit when closed. Took alot of measuring and thought and eyeballing to get this position just right.

Image9376 BB42

Glassed before the cut - to stabilize and give strength to it during and after it is cut.

Image9382 BB43

Cleaned up and pilot holes (slot) made for the narrow jigsaw blade.

Image9383 BB44

Hatch cut and edges being sealed on hatch and hatch opening. While this side cures, time to work on the shed shelves, then come back and flip this to seal the other side's edges.

Image9386 BB45

When the starboard assembly edges are sealed and cured, it will be used to mark the hatch opening for the port side locker/box. More hurry up and wait. Paint shed shelves, walk the dog, etc. :)

User avatar
peter-curacao
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 6977
Joined: Mon Mar 24, 2008 1:29 pm
Location: Curaçao Dutch Caribbean

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by peter-curacao » Fri Nov 15, 2013 9:00 pm

ks8 wrote:


Image9302


Image9304
Sailing rough seas lately? :P sorry I couldn't resist, your work looks great and beyond the highest level, my sincere compliments!

User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:30 am

Thank you for the compliment Peter. With your level of work, it is a compliment indeed. :)

I was going to have the VHF and GPS and Fishy Finder rise up out of the boxes, motorized .... nah. :lol:

But maybe a small signal cannon out of the port box ... :idea:

Image

User avatar
ks8
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 8325
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
Location: FL USA
Location: A one hour sail south of Tampa Bay EL87qm

Re: CV16 Caravelle - KS8 - more pictures added

Post by ks8 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:13 pm

20131118 Bilge Boxes

First mark, a simple tracing, for the starboard hatch ring. Then an outer and inner mark are added to this, by eduguestimated methods. The inner mark is the actual final cutout dimensions of the hatch. The outer mark is the area beyond the first tracing that creates the area that actually gets bonded to the opening. The hatch then rests in the edge that the hatch ring provides. Any questions, if that didn't make sense, will be answered in future pictures.

Image9387 BB46

There was a brief foot vote. Right foot good, left foot has questions. I explained that the knot isn't a problem because the entire center is getting cut out and removed. There were no further objections or questions. Motion then made and seconded to make the first cut in prep for glassing before the final cut. No further discussion was requested. New business.

Image9388 BB47

Sealing more edges and glassing the hatch ring.

Image9390 BB48

... thinking chair ...

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest