Flipping the hull question

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mac4
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Flipping the hull question

Post by mac4 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:10 pm

Men,

Here's the scene,

Have finished glassing the 1/4" meranti , outside hull, on my OB 15. Still have to sand lightly and go over it with last coat of epoxy before quick fair....

Plans say to "Remove screws securing the molds to the longitudinal base member. Flip the hull over. Brace the hull before removing the molds." My molds are each individual pieces of solid plywood, not frames that I can remove pieces from. I naturally removed all screws holding the hull to the molding frames ( minus the transom ) so I could fiberglass.

Is the hull strong enough by itself now to flip or do I need to somehow reinforce the inside of hull before flipping? I sure hope this question isn't as stupid as it sounds.

Thanks
John



Lung Boy
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Re: Flipping the hull question

Post by Lung Boy » Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:45 pm

Hi John, let me see if can answer some of your questions.
Is the hull strong enough by itself now to flip or do I need to somehow reinforce the inside of hull before flipping? I sure hope this question isn't as stupid as it sounds.
If you have already glued on your rub rail it is plenty strong enough.


Here is what I did with my FS17.
1. Glue on the rub rail if it is not already there.
2. Build your craddle for the flipped hull. I built mine right on top of the hull so I knew it would fit perfectly.
3. Flip the hull. Lift it right off the mold assembly. Place it on the craddle. Takes a minute with a few guys or gals.
4. Place the mold assembly in the flipped hull.
5. Brace the hull at the sheer up to the molds so the hull sides don't droop.

mac4
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Re: Flipping the hull question

Post by mac4 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:14 pm

Thanks very much for your input. I will do as you did.

If you're talking about the rubber type rails, I was hoping not to put them on. I certainly can and will if I need to, just hadn't planned on it. Do you think I could just clamp the outer side of a gunwale in place for added strength when flipping or am I really making this too complicated ? Also, if I may...How far did you finish your hull before flipping ? I was thinking I would at least get to the first coat of fairing compound just to help protect the fiberglass while I worked on the inside.

wadestep
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Re: Flipping the hull question

Post by wadestep » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:33 am

The rub rail in question here is not the rubber. It is the wood reinforcement along the outside of your sheer that increases the thickness along and even with the top of the sheer, on the outside. IE - the sheer clamp is on the inside, the rub rail is on the outside. Both are just stiffener pieces for the top of the sheer.

also - I had the underside of the hull finished all the way through painting before flipping the hull. the sides of the hull were finished to 2/3 coats of paint. That way, I could come back when the boat is upright and just apply one more coat of paint tot he sides when the rest of construction is done. In retrospect, I would have not painted the transom, since after putting holes in it for tow eyes, drain plugs, etc I basically need to completely re-paint.
wade
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.

mac4
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Re: Flipping the hull question

Post by mac4 » Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:00 pm

Thanks for the clarification. As you may have already noticed I thought the upper rub rail was called gunwale.

I'm glad you mentioned your hindsight on the transom. I will definitely wait on finishing mine till after all the fixtures are in.

Thank you both for your valuable input.
John

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