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Repairing dinks, scratches, scrapes and gouges.

Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 2:36 am
by bigyellowtractor
My HC12 has already picked up some minor damage and I'd like to keep on top of it before the poor little thing looks like it fell out of the back of a truck on the motorway.

None of the damage so far is through to the ply, any suggestions on how to repair ? I don't really want to be sanding through five coats of paint in forty small areas on the boat. Is there anything that will stick to paint and epoxy, is quick to set up and easy to sand ??

The fairing mixes I used when I built it seemed to have quite a large particle size and wouldn't feather out as finely as say car body filler. What else could I use ?

What would be the consequences if I just roughed up the gouges with a bit of 80-grit, filled with body filler and painted ??

Looking forward to a pile of opinions please.

Re: Repairing dinks, scratches, scrapes and gouges.

Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:36 am
by reefie
Hi BYT,

I have a 2 pack painted composite boat, and this is how I carry out my minor paint repairs;

1. Sand out the gouges/scratches etc... with 80 grit (only do the minimum sanding required to do the job)
2. Mix some Q-cels (micro-balloons)with 2 pack high-build primer to about the consistency of toothpaste.
3. Using a small artists pallete knife slightly overfill the gouges/scratchs with this mixture.
4. When cured (in all likelyhood the next day), sand flat with 240 grit (do not use a finer grit or the topcoat may not adhere properly). This mix sands very easily when freshly cured, but will become very hard over the next few weeks.
5. Wipe down the repaired area with wax and grease remover.
6. Mask off the surrounding areas about 4" to 5" away from the repaired area to shield from overspray.
7. Using a small touch-up spray gun, apply as many light coats of the matching coloured 2 pack topcoat as required to cover the repair (in my experience this is something like 5 to 6 coats wet on wet about 20 minutes apart). Avoid applying the coats too heavy so you don't get runs. Also, do not spray right up to the masking tape or you will get a paint ridge - but feather the spray paint from the repaired area.
8. When cured (in about 3 to 4 days) wet sand starting with 400 grit finishing with 1500 to 2000 grit - then cut and polish. Be careful not to sand too deep or you will break through the topcoat.

Your repair will be totally invisible.

It sounds long winded, but you will find it is very easy and quick. For efficiency, I find it best to wait until you have a number of scratches/gouges to repair and do them all at once.

Hope this helps.

Reefie

Re: Repairing dinks, scratches, scrapes and gouges.

Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:51 am
by terrulian
Also, do not spray right up to the masking tape or you will get a paint ridge - but feather the spray paint from the repaired area.
You also can try curling up the edges of the masking tape so that the spray never reaches a hard line.

Re: Repairing dinks, scratches, scrapes and gouges.

Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 3:15 pm
by bigyellowtractor
Thanks for the very detailed reply Reefie,

My little boat viewtopic.php?f=14&t=62358&start=90#p404230 is roller painted with a single pack satin so I'm not looking for a high class finish I am more concerned with finding something that is easy to use and will stick OK without having to cut back to the epoxy.

Re: Repairing dinks, scratches, scrapes and gouges.

Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:10 pm
by terrulian
I just did this on my boat. Do what Reefie says but skip the spraying if that's not what you are used to and use the same paint you started with. I didn't bother with primer, just did the fairing with microballoons (which shouldn't be gritty at all), sanded, and put on enough coats to cover the color difference. If you then sand as he recommends, very lightly, you should be able to make it undetectable except to Sherlock Holmes, especially after a little use.