boat performance in tampa bay area

Ask questions before buying our plans or request a new design. Anybody can post here
Lung Boy
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 88
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:34 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Self Aligning Jig System Tutorial

Post by Lung Boy » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:20 am

I was reviewing the 'Self Aligning Jig System' tutorial. In looking at the figure under "Check the diagnals as shown: ...". How do you measure the diagnals when a staight line would need to go through the stringers? It seems like this would be a problem on any vee bottom. :?:



User avatar
jacquesmm
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 27338
Joined: Wed Aug 14, 2002 1:00 am
Location: Florida USA
Contact:

Post by jacquesmm » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:31 am

You check the diagonals on the jig first then after turning the hull over.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://bateau.com

User avatar
davidtx
* Bateau Builder *
* Bateau Builder *
Posts: 929
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:01 pm
Location: Derry, NH

Re: Self Aligning Jig System Tutorial

Post by davidtx » Mon Jan 28, 2008 12:31 pm

Lung Boy wrote:I was reviewing the 'Self Aligning Jig System' tutorial. In looking at the figure under "Check the diagnals as shown: ...". How do you measure the diagnals when a staight line would need to go through the stringers? It seems like this would be a problem on any vee bottom. :?:
I measured under the frames (top if the boat was upright). You should have a straight shot there.

-david
See my blog: http://buildingtx18.blogspot.com/view or drop "view" from the end for the old interface

Lung Boy
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 88
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:34 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Post by Lung Boy » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:07 am

:oops: Yes, the obvious way in this case is the best way. I was fixated on the bottom corners (the corners at the chine between the bottom and side of the hull) of the frames.

JASmine
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 531
Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 8:58 pm
Location: Oldsmar, Fl

Post by JASmine » Tue Jan 29, 2008 11:20 am

I'm missing something here...the standard way to measure diagonals is by string line from each corner of the transom to each opposite corner of the frames as you move forward towards the bow. Then you fix the frames in place and go from there. It doesn't matter if the string is "level", only straight. It can bend over previous frames and still be accurate for squaring purposes. This assumes of course that your frames are the "correct" shape.
Good Luck

Lung Boy
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 88
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:34 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

school is almost out

Post by Lung Boy » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:22 am

School is almost out. I've read the FS17 plans, the online tutorials and numerous posts. It is time for some on the job training. But first, a few (stupid?) questions.

I haven't decided on the extras yet, but if I did I might need extra plywood for the center console (2 sheets of 3/8") version of the FS17 with gunwales (1 or 2 sheets of 1/4") and a casting deck (1 sheet of 3/8"). In the spirit of trying to keep the weight down while adding on these extras, is it possible to use 1/4" for the center console? Is the entire base piece of the center console needed or could a flange be used instead?

What kind of wood is used for cleats?

I am a bit uneasy about ordering a large quantity of expensive plywood. After recent experiences of being caught in the middle of the vender/shipper relationship or lack of relationship it might be worth the drive. Has anyone had problems with the plywood shipper that boatbuilder uses? With my luck, I would probably be the first.

User avatar
tech_support
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 12319
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 7:00 pm
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Contact:

Post by tech_support » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:30 am

We use quite a few and its always insured. We send plywood throughout the state every week, nothing to worry about.

If you come pick it up, you save at least $90 - which will cover gas plus a little.

If you go with 1/4" console - just done stand on it, other wise its fine.

for cleats, use scrap plywood (2 layers of scrap 1/4" makes a good cleat) or some cheap fir stock from the lumber yard. Either way make sure they get encapsulated with epoxy.

User avatar
gk108
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 3356
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 6:53 pm
Location: The Peach State

Post by gk108 » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:48 am

I wouldn't worry about the shipping. Both times I've ordered plywood, it arrived quickly and with packaging totally intact. Along with each shipment you get two large corrugated cardboard sheets for making templates when you need them. Very handy when you start laying out seats and stuff. :D
CC, D15, V10

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests