Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread

[fallguy1000]

I just didn’t understand the comments about the glass thickness. Sort of understood, unless you were not fairing..

[Dougster]

Regarding pinholes, another builder, TxDave I think, told me about something I think called Kombi's Super Putty. I have some left down in my shop and will check later on the name. It's an automotive product but not bondo. Anyway it worked great, and more to the point the paint over it has held up for several years now with no trouble. You put a dab on your finger, spread it over pinholes, wait 5 minutes, and sand it of. Presto, no pinhole. I've used it on three builds and never a problem. Quickfair didn't work. I'd fill the pinholes, wait several hours, sand, and the pinholes were often still there.

Dougster

[terrulian]

I had this same problem with whatever filler I tried. In the end I had to basically dig out the pinholes with a combination of wire brush and scraping with an awl to get back to an uncontaminated base. Fortunately, there were only one or two of these, very tiny. I finally got it done. I posted photos on the forum and the general consensus was, this is not that uncommon.

[joe2700]

I put a sanding drum on my dremel and touch each pinhole with it to open them up. Then they are easy to fill in with your fairing compound of choice. Often they fill up with dust that vacuuming won't touch, which makes filling them with anything tough unless you open them up.

[Jaysen]

Work boat finish for the win!

[narfi]

I just didn’t understand the comments about the glass thickness. Sort of understood, unless you were not fairing..

I'm not very good at explaining stuff online
The bottom of the boat at the transom has 4 layers of glass(on the outside), 2 layers of tape, 1 layer of biax that covers the entire bottom and wraps around the back, and 1 layer of biax that covers the transom and wraps around the bottom.
This creates somewhat of a 'hook' on the rear planing surface as there is only 1 layer on most of the bottom, but 4 layers at the back that requires fairing out.
I chose to wrap the transom layer further forward than necessary to create kind of a stepped transition of glass layers, which hopefully in theory will make fairing easier.

Does that make sense or just muddy it more?

[Fuzz]

Sounds smart to me and should work well.

[Jaysen]

Sounds smart to me and should work well.

This may be a questionable endorsement

[narfi]

Bought a lightly used table saw from a buddy and set it up in the tent.
I don't think my extention cord is big enough, it doesn't seem to wind up very fast and bogs down easy on just a 2x4. I also discovered a missing tooth, so need to buy a new blade for it.

I did manage to cut a couple triangles to lay on the chine for looks and I think it will work.

Near the transom,

Near the bow,

I think I like it better with the 90deg corner out which I think is what silentneco was thinking for his as well.

It is pretty close to flush with the side panel near the transom and angles out a bit at the bow.

Forgot how dusty I had got it in there, I'll need to clean some before doing anything productive.

Momma is doing better but still trying to keep her as quiet as possible. So Landon and I are (trying) to do as much of the cooking and cleaning as possible.

Been just below freezing last few days. Too warm to work outside with more than a hoodie on.

[Fuzz]

That is some nice looking glass work there Narfi.
Be interesting to see what you work out for the chines.