Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

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VT_Jeff
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Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff » Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:17 am

I've had this roll of tape kicking around for years, never had a use for it until now, maybe.

6" wide, .04 inches thick, have not weighed it, no digital scale (yet).

Probably should have asked before ordered the complete glass/epoxy kit from Jeff M.
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lelandtampa
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by lelandtampa » Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:00 pm

My untrained eye says it looks like 1708.

VT_Jeff
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff » Sun Nov 17, 2019 1:25 pm

lelandtampa wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:00 pm
My untrained eye says it looks like 1708.
Thanks Leland. Would this be suitable for hull panel splices?
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fallguy1000
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by fallguy1000 » Sun Nov 17, 2019 4:22 pm

1708 or 1208

More likely the 1708. It is 25 oz per yard or 25/6 oz per running yard (3 ft)
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VT_Jeff
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff » Thu Nov 21, 2019 9:44 am

fallguy1000 wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 4:22 pm
1708 or 1208

More likely the 1708. It is 25 oz per yard or 25/6 oz per running yard (3 ft)
Thanks Fall Guy. I just go the 6oz biaxial tape from BBC, it's a LOT lighter.

I've never used the SilverTip stuff before, so I'm guessing here on what to use where, corrections/opinions appreciated:

1. pre-coat weld spots with straight epoxy, wait till tacky
2. spot-weld with Gel-magic
3. Allow spot-welds to cure, remove stitches
4. Complete welds with ez-fillet(?)

I assume I don't need to sand the spot-welds before adding the complete welds. Do I even need to worry about blush on the spot-welds? My plan is to make the spot-welds pretty small, like a 1/4" long, spaced the same as the stitches(10"-12").

Thanks,

jeff
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fallguy1000
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by fallguy1000 » Thu Nov 21, 2019 10:10 am

Looks good to me on the epoxy plan.

You precoat the weld locations to avoid dryjoint that can happen with plywood. Silvertip highly unlikely to blush inside heated areas. 250 gallons used ~ 0 blush events, but a few mix errors.

Precoating those joints will make it hard to get fillets in place if it is gooey. So wait until it kicks a bit and gets sticky. It is mostly for your convenience to wait. But not precoating is unwise.
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VT_Jeff
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff » Thu Nov 21, 2019 12:29 pm

fallguy1000 wrote:
Thu Nov 21, 2019 10:10 am
Looks good to me on the epoxy plan.

You precoat the weld locations to avoid dryjoint that can happen with plywood. Silvertip highly unlikely to blush inside heated areas. 250 gallons used ~ 0 blush events, but a few mix errors.

Precoating those joints will make it hard to get fillets in place if it is gooey. So wait until it kicks a bit and gets sticky. It is mostly for your convenience to wait. But not precoating is unwise.
250 gallons? That's a lot of sanding! Thanks for the confirmation.
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joe2700
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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by joe2700 » Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:45 am

VT_Jeff wrote:
Thu Nov 21, 2019 9:44 am

I've never used the SilverTip stuff before, so I'm guessing here on what to use where, corrections/opinions appreciated:

1. pre-coat weld spots with straight epoxy, wait till tacky
2. spot-weld with Gel-magic
3. Allow spot-welds to cure, remove stitches
4. Complete welds with ez-fillet(?)

I assume I don't need to sand the spot-welds before adding the complete welds. Do I even need to worry about blush on the spot-welds? My plan is to make the spot-welds pretty small, like a 1/4" long, spaced the same as the stitches(10"-12").

Thanks,

jeff
I'm sure people do it, but the gel magic technical data sheet specifically says you don't need to precoat. I have never precoated using it and have had no problems.
NOTE: GelMagic may be used directly on new wood without pre-coating with an epoxy coating or sealer. If substrates are
pre-coated, sand any cured material in the bonding area prior to using GelMagic.
- https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1000/ ... TDS.pdf?88

My approach was to:
-spot weld with gel magic and let cure
-remove stitches and finish welding with gel magic and let cure
-scuff up gel magic before glass

I don't see a problem finishing your weld with ez fillet instead of gel magic, I just wanted the joint to be consistent. I would scuff up cured gel magic before you apply anything on top of it though, it always feels incredibly slick after curing.

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Re: Help with identifying some glass (FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff » Mon Nov 25, 2019 9:41 am

joe2700 wrote:
Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:45 am


I'm sure people do it, but the gel magic technical data sheet specifically says you don't need to precoat. I have never precoated using it and have had no problems.

...

My approach was to:
-spot weld with gel magic and let cure
-remove stitches and finish welding with gel magic and let cure
-scuff up gel magic before glass

I don't see a problem finishing your weld with ez fillet instead of gel magic, I just wanted the joint to be consistent. I would scuff up cured gel magic before you apply anything on top of it though, it always feels incredibly slick after curing.
Thanks for the info Joe, sounds like a good plan!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

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