Dukes Wisconsin FL 14

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Dukydo
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Dukes Wisconsin FL 14

Post by Dukydo » Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:20 pm

Finally, I'm actually building.


I am finally getting time to get back to my FL 14. About two years after starting with the cutting out of parts.

I am now going to jump right on it. WRONG. According to the plans the bottom comes out of 3/8 ply and shows the Butt-Blocks as also coming out of the same piece as the rear bottom Panel. However D 126-3 items 1 & 2 says the bottom and side Butt Blocks will be from 1/4 ply. It makes some sense that they would be 1/4 inch material but the drawing on D 126-2 shows otherwise. :help: :?
Duke
Last edited by Dukydo on Thu Jul 19, 2007 12:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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msujmccorm
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Post by msujmccorm » Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:11 pm

I cut mine as d126/2 out of 3/8" and allowed for the edges(left them 3/8" short) and all worked out okay. They can probably work just as well out of 1/4". Don't forget to precoat the butt blocks like I did!
Jeff
fl14 done, can't decide what's next!

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Dukydo
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Post by Dukydo » Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:38 pm

Thanks Jeff,
So how did it work out for you, what with forgetting to precoat the blocks?
Hopfully it didn't result in degredation of the hulls integrity.
I have used the 3/8 ply as you did.

Duke

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Post by Dukydo » Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:13 pm

I am planning to power my FL14 with an old but reliable 5 HP Clinton J-9. So now I have a few questions that hopefully someone in the know can answer.

1. Should I double the stern and if so... completely or from the seat up?

2. I am useing the m6566 but don't have enough to double the stern so..... can I use something from Home Depot or similar and use it on the inside?

3. I am finally getting to put this thing together and I am enjoying myself more than I have in years.

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msujmccorm
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Post by msujmccorm » Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:46 pm

Since I forgot to precoat the butt blocks I put a layer of 4oz glass on the outside of the splice. I used a 4hp mercury and doubled the transom thickness the whole way. My entire boat was built from luaun plywood but a little better quality than the big boxes sell. I had to add more plywood(clamping board) because the clamps on the outboard would not get small enough to clamp on the 3/4". I used a piece of 3/4" I had lying around for a thickness above the seat of 1 1/2".
Jeff
fl14 done, can't decide what's next!

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Steve_MA
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Post by Steve_MA » Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:12 am

You can use exterior ply if you want to, just cover it with epoxy.
I only put a transom pad on mine it probably was the wrong thing to do. It would have been easier to double up the whole thing....or at least from the seat up.

Plus make sure you tape the knees in. I have some cracking where the knees and transom meet. But I had a 6hp Sailmaster that was mounted high and really put some twist on the transom....probably moreso when I trailered it. I have to fix it now. I have a 5hp Yamaha now....more than it needs still.

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Post by Dukydo » Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:16 pm

Thanks to both Jeff and Steve for your input. I got the exterior sanded on one side of the 3/4 inch birch ply at HD. got it home and quickly laminated the original 3/8 stern panel to a newly cut piece of the 3/4. I soaked both with epoxy until they wouldn't drink any more then I glued (wet on wet) the two together. It really looks beefy.

After it is cured enough I will stich it into the side panels and start to Butt-Join the bottom panel. Before I unstiched the 3/8 stern panel, I had her all measured out and all was square with the centerline of the boat. I measured everything from every possible point and it is symetrical. So if I simply return the stern panel to the boat it should still be square. I can then begin to tac-weld the frames and panels, stich and tape the bottom on and then the big flip. I hope to have this all done by the weekend following.

Its hard to believe I am actually getting this boat together after all it has been about two plus years since I bought the plans.
Last edited by Dukydo on Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Dukydo » Thu Jul 19, 2007 12:58 pm

I have a few pictures posted on the web and am putting the URL below. I hope I get it right. Nothing more frustrating than posting an address that goes noplace.

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b4/Dukydo/

Duke

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Post by Dukydo » Sun Jul 29, 2007 5:49 pm

A little help please

I have tried to apply epoxy on a large VERTICLE area and find it almost if not imposible to do without getting SAGS in the epoxy. This means lots of sanding. Right? OR is there a way of applying epoxy without sags. Working slow and trying to spread it on thin don't work cuz the epoxy starts to harden before the area is finished. I hope my question is seen here as there doesn' seem to be a lot of traffic here lately.

I am applying with a brush. I paint pictures with acrilic paints and use crosshatch brush stokes to spread and blend. But that method does not work here with epoxy due to the drying or flashpoint. In painting with acrilics one can spray a water mist on the picture to keep the paint workable. Can't do that here obviously.

And I am measureing 2 parts resin with 1 part hardener. OH and yes :lol: I am useing a larger brush than I use with the artwork.

Thanks, Duke

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b4/Dukydo/

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Post by fishingdan » Sun Jul 29, 2007 6:30 pm

I'm assuming that you are applying a coat of unthickened epoxy.

Use roller instead of a brush. The brush is slow and puts on too thick of a coat. I know of they are sold under the West System brand in the same area as the fillers and epoxy. I'm sure you can get the same roller anywhere. It is a thin yellow foam roller that works well for applying resin over a large area. This will allow you to rapidly apply a thin coat to the panel.

You may still get some sags, but we all do. They are easy to fair out.

I use to get them a lot when working in colder temps. As the epoxy heated up while curing, it would thin out and run.

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