Started the fs18 build

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jrkayakin
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Started the fs18 build

Post by jrkayakin » Fri Jul 13, 2007 12:06 am

i built the jig for my fs18 today

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:P http://www.fs18build.blogspot.com
Last edited by jrkayakin on Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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tech_support
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Post by tech_support » Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:10 am

very nice jig. In the future, could you put some of the pictures in this thread?

LIke this one....

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Post by Super Spook » Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:08 am

That jig does look nice. Your build already looks cleaner than mine :lol: . I will say that it seems like you have a lot of unsupported overhang on the ends of the jig to me though. You'll probably be OK, just watch that when you start screwing the frames on that you don't knock it out of level or introduce any twist. I had to go back and redo my frames after beefing up the strongback. The ends on my first version were too flexible. Keep up the good work. Just my $0.000000002.

Elie

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Post by Bayport_Bob » Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:34 am

If you haven't cut out any of your side or bottom panels for the round chine option, please post before you do. There is one cut in particular that I've seen on every round chine project picture that could be changed to produce a minor improvement where all the panels join at the bow. I don't have my plans in front of me at the moment, but I'll post my proposed change so you can decide. It's one of the cuts on the round chine sheet.

Also, I have a suggestion to try when stitching the hull sections together to get the panels to conform to the bow molds a little better than what I had success with. If i had to do it again, I would loosely lay the stitched bottom panels up on the jig, and then very loosely stitch on the side panels. Next I would take a couple of nylon ratchet straps and wrap them around Mold B & C. Slowly tighten the straps over the panels, adjusting their positions as necessary. Keep at least an 1/8" gap where the panels meet, and tighten the straps. You'll probably have to put on a fair amount of tension to get the bottom panels to conform to the mold edges. Check the panels for fairness (NO dips or bulges). Adjust the tension and panel positions with fairness as a 1st priority and conforming to the molds as best as possible. Also, the rear half of the boat bottom should be just about ruler flat when measured parallel to the keel. Absolutely no dips or rises, if there are any, take the time to shim between the stringers and hull panels, or the molds edges and the hull panels, to eliminate any unevenness. The result will be a reduction in the amount of faring that you'll need to do once the bottom is glassed. Take the time to get it right at the beginning saves countless hours of sanding faring compound.

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Post by Super Spook » Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:34 pm

All good advice, particularly that about fairness in the rear portion of the boat. I didn't head Bob's advice as well as I should have and will tell you that any hook you have becomes MAGNIFIED when you tape on the transom. Fairing it out has been the most time consuming and tedious portion of the build so far.

Just from memory, I think that the questionable cut that Bob is talking about is the direction to trim the tips of the bottom panels for the round chine option. If you look at both of our websites, you'll see that this cut leaves a considerable gap at the bow where bottom and side panels meet, and may not even be necessary. I just ended up filling the gap with thickened epoxy, but it's right where the bow eye will probably end up, so I plan on beefing the area up from the inside for my own peace of mind.

Oh yeah, and welcome to the club. :lol:

Elie

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Post by Bayport_Bob » Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:19 pm

Elie pointed out the cut that can probably be reduced or eliminated - it's the 2" tip of the bottom panel on sheet B279/6 (upper left hand corner). Basically, on the 3 builds with pictures that have been posted (including mine), the cut leaves about a 1"+ gap when the round chine strips come together. I would guess the gap was closer to 1.5" on my build. If you didn't make the 2" trim cut shown on the plans, then it would be very easy to trim it back to the necessary length when you stitched the strips in place. You'll see what I mean when you get to that stage of stitching. It's easier to remove the material later than to add it back! :lol:

It's not a big deal, but it will save a minor amount of time filling in and faring the gap both inside & out. These are just little things that I remember from my build that I would do different & no major issue.

A couple of other things while I'm thinking of it. For people doing the round chine option, there's no need to cut out the gunwale, bow or stern deck sheets right away. With the round chine option you need access to the inside of the bow area to align the chine strips, so the build method using the deck sheets isn't feasible. If I did it again I would wait until the rubrail was on & then flip the boat and trace the gunwale & deck sections on the uncut sheets at that stage. Use the inside edge of the hull as a guide and you'll get a perfect fit. This would have saved me a minor amount of time since there will be a small amount of trimming on my parts. I cut them out based on the drawing dimensions and not based on the "as built" dimensions. There's probably about a maximum of a 1/4" difference in a couple of areas on my build where I need to trim back the deck & gunwale edges for a better fit. It shows how well Jacques modeling works when there's such a small amount of variation given the vast differences in material choices and building methods- I'm impressed!

Enjoy the process. - Bob
Last edited by Bayport_Bob on Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by jrkayakin » Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:53 pm

Thanks guys for the info, and i will definitely will be asking you guys questions along the way and following your builds . Hell since we all live somewhat close when were all done well have to take our boats for a little skinny water fishing.

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Post by FlaFF » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:13 pm

I see you're in Cape Coral, I'm in North Fort Myers and have an FS18 that I'm about to pour the floatation foam into. You're more than welcome to come have a look, I'd be more than happy to show you a few things I'd have done differently.

Josh

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Post by jrkayakin » Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:27 pm

i love to come check it out and see it in person and get your input also


Thanks,Josh

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Post by FlaFF » Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:43 am

Give me a call. 223-1154. I'll be around this afternoon (Sunday) and all day tomorrow.

Josh

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