FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

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Gino
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FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by Gino » Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:31 pm

I will start with a disclaimer that I will not be tracking my hours too close or providing a photo diary as impressive as many I have seen. I have the benefit of being "Self Employed" and building my boat where I work. I will have many opportunities to spend 30 minutes to a few hours on the boat and when that occurs I will be working rather than documenting my work. If anyone wants any pics or has questions I will gladly supply them. I will also gladly accept any comments or criticisms.

I Received my CNC kit about two weeks ago. Very prompt service from ordering to arrival of the kit. Very impressed with the phone calls prior to cut to verify my order. Even more impressed with the communication after the delivery of my "pieces" for my boat. I wish more of my vendors communicated the way this crew communicates.

I guess the trucking company decided it too easy with a CNC kit. It was very much a jigsaw puzzle after the trucking company delivered it. No cardboard on one side of the metal strapped bundle or on the bottom and very little effort needed to remove the pieces from the remaining box. There was no issue of getting a set of forks to unload the wood, we did it piece by piece. There was not a single sheet that did not have over half the pieces broken loose. This was what I considered Extreme Customer Service from the trucking company and not in a good way. The poor driver was soo apologetic and helpful. Especially considering the amount of dog food and other items the loading crew broke open in the truck. I probably have the only dog food scented FS 18 Kit. :D

I built my strongback this week and rather than wood legs, I used cinder blocks to level it inside the greenhouse where I normally keep my current boat. I have read and reread posts for other builders and one of the issues mentioned and what I experienced on my boat I recently restored was the issue of working height for different jobs. For me, the cinder blocks were a preference due to a pallet of them on hand at work and I can easily raise or lower the boat by adding or taking away blocks or even using pavers that are 2" height for me to have the perfect work height. I have rope pulleys in the greenhouse that usually hold my kayaks and they can be used to raise the strongback or boat temporarily as needed to adjust working height.

I will be building the boat in a 15' tall greenhouse with a gravel floor so clean up won't be quite the issue some builders deal with. I can let everything fall where it may and work its way into the gravel. The down side is the gravel floor. Dust issues with wind, water if we start getting flooded again like this spring, uncomfortable floor to stand on at times. I will be having to wet the ground on many days before I crank up the fans for airflow or before I do any glass work. Not the best, but a lot better than the work area I had to restore my current boat.

Gino



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jacquesmm
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Re: FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by jacquesmm » Wed Jul 15, 2015 9:45 am

Sorry about the shipping damage: the kits leave here seriously packaged , completely sealed in heavy cardboard with steel strap, corners and edge protectors but it looks like somebody was a little wild with his forklift while the kit was in transit.
Thanks to the pictures, we made certain that there is little damage to the plywood parts them self but that trucking company is on our blacklist now.

I'll be away from the office for a couple of weeks but keep posting here if you have questions, i will watch this thread.
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Gino
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Re: FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by Gino » Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:27 am

Jacques

There was nothing to apologize for. I wish all my Vendors were as responsive as you have been. It was all on the back of the final shipping company.

We probably kicked 5-10 lbs of dog food off the truck unloading my kit. If anything, the poor treatment of the kit by the shipper "forced" me to start working on my boat earlier than planned.

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Making Progress

Post by Gino » Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:34 pm

Unfortunately I have been busy down here and have not been able to commit the time I hoped to assembling my boat. Any free time I have is broken down into an hour or so if I am lucky. I was able to complete the panels, stringers, and stern so hopefully I will begin stitching the boat together this weekend and tacking it if I am lucky.

I have read many of the previous build notes and they have saved plenty of time with helpful advice. I would hope to do the same for others and will include time and supplies used for anyone that would like a reference. After seeing some of the quality pics of other builders, I probably won't have too many pics to include.

Sides and Bottoms
I tried something different by using 4 mil and 6 mil plastic to squeeze the resin out of the fabric. The results were varied.
The 4 mil plastic I put over the fabric left ripples after I removed the plastic when the resin was dry. I had to spend time sanding the ripples out. The 6 mil plastic left a nice smooth finish that I roughed up for future bonding. The results were the same as experienced by others and commented on in a different forum on here. Next time it will be no plastic. You live and learn. Thanks for the comments on the other forum.

I was using up some West system resin and the sides took an average of about 12 pumps of resin to connect the pieces per side(inside vs outside). The bottom took about 18 pumps of resin per side(inside vs bottom). If I had used the squeegee rather than plastic, I could have probably completed the work with about 10 pumps and 16 pumps. I was sloppy and used too much resin with the assumption I could remove it easily.

The time spent from start to finish on these pieces including sanding was about 4 hours. This was from laying down the plastic to cleaning up.

The stringers
Many thanks to all the previous builders that commented on using wooden pegs to hold the pieces together. They made the job very easy. I put 2 pegs on each piece to hold it straight. The pieces went together so easy with no slippage.
I spent about 1 1/2-2 hours total on the stringers. This includes cleaning the squeeze out with the Stanley Planer.
I used 12 pumps of West System Slow resin and and 12 oz total of the Silvertip Gel Magic Adhesive to assemble the stringers.
A mixture of every clamp I own was used to hold the stringers together as the glue dried.
Image

The Stern
I used 3 wood pegs total to align the pieces, again it made the job very simple.
I spent about an hour on the stern. Clean up took about 30 min or so, I removed much of the squeeze as I could.
To join the first two pieces I used 10 pumps of West System Slow Resin and 12 oz total of Silvertip Gel Magic Adhesive. I used the same amount to join the second and third piece together. I used a 4" metal trowel for tile work to spread the Adhesive. I used clamps and two brake drums to hold the stern together as it dried.

Image
First two pieces of stern

Image
Second and third piece
Last edited by Gino on Sat Sep 19, 2015 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by jacquesmm » Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:50 pm

Don't mix two resin brands. It's OK to use for example System Three GelMagic and then West for fiberglassing but one brand can only be applied over the other one after it is completely cured.
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Gino
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Stitching and Glueing Panels to the Stern but...

Post by Gino » Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:51 pm

It has been a busy but productive few days. I have been getting up early to work on the boat before work and some tinkering on it during lunch. All frames were squared up and attached to the deck to prevent movement. The most difficult part was attaching the stern to the stringers properly while trying to hold it up. I finally managed and I am ready to put the bottom panels on the boat.

I had a very productive lunch break and the bottom panels on the boat are stitched together with some weights to hold the panels against the stringers. Everything looks nice and level. I have loosely attached both sides to the bottom panels and tightened them up somewhat to see how everything looks.

Saturday I will be working on stitching the panels together and slowly pulling them tight. Should I just let the bottom panels sit on the stern and duct tape them in place so they don't move as I work towards the front tightening the side panels or or is there a better way such as finish nails?


As I was tightening the side panels a little to see how the look, I ran into a problem. I have the CNC kit and a bow mold came with the kit. With the bow mold on the boat and from what I see at this point with the panels loosely stitched together, the bow mold is about 3/4-1" too long for the bow panels to stitch together on the very front. The side panels hit the mold edge and leave a 3/4" gap between them. I don't understand how the mold is too long because it matched all notches. I am considering cutting the mold down on some of the curve to allow the sides to fit together. I would welcome any comments.

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Re: FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by jacquesmm » Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:08 pm

Something is wrong but cut the mold down. The function of the mold is to pull the bow edge back, not forward.
Look at the plans and see how you should cut. The tip of the bow should be as shown on the plans, at 34" from A.
We sold about 50 FS18 kits and it's the first time hear about that problem.
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Gino
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Re: FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by Gino » Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:25 pm

I had to go back and remove quite a few cable ties to work on the bow mold issue. But then again, easier to replace cable ties that have problems later.

I ended up cutting about a 1/2' tapering back to 1/4" halfway to A and then flush at A. All I can figure that happened is that with the multiple breaks of the bow mold, it was stretched a little too long with the glue jobs I did to repair it. After my cuts, the side panels pulled together in front of the bow mold a lot better.
Image

To pull the side and bottom panels together easier, I used 1/2" hot water pvc pipe behind the panels as others have on the round chine option. The only thing different I did was I used a solid piece of pipe rather than individual pieces. This allowed me to pull the sides and bottom together very quickly and neatly the second time around. I used wooden dowel pieces rather than nails to help align and space the side and bottom panels for the whole length.
Image



Overall I estimate 3 hours time spent completing the stitching of the boat and making sure the bottom is level. I probably could have completed it in less time, but after reading the blogs concerning extra work fairing if this step is rushed, I decided to double and triple check everything and make any changes necessary.

Hopefully I will have time to start gluing it with West 610 in the next day or two and then I will be trying to find a big enough block of hours to tape and glass the bottom all at once.
Last edited by Gino on Mon Sep 21, 2015 5:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Gino
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Non Marine Meranti Plywood for Rub Rail?

Post by Gino » Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:51 pm

I am currently waiting for supplies and an upcoming 3 day weekend to fiberglass the bottom of my boat. In the meantime, I was thinking about cutting the wood for my rubrails. I can purchase non marine Meranti plywood 3/8" here in San Antonio rather than make a 3 hour trip to Houston for Okumi or Meranti marine grade. The price is about 1/4th the cost, but I am more concerned with quality rather than cost. Will this be a problem considering it is just the rub rails?

Gino

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Re: FS18 CNC Build San Antonio Texas

Post by Fishwater » Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:07 pm

You're right to check and recheck before glassing. I spent countless hours fixing what shouldn't have needed fixing.

Btw, I taped and glassed the outside of the hull (FS18) by myself in about 5 hours.

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